Thin gasket material

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Yes to the sealer, only thing with metal gaskets is they can't take any dirt in the joint. Clean everything up realy well first. Guess that is why I am not a fan of some of the real goopy anerobic gasket makers, almost as hard to remove once set up as tar from a chicken.

Just a little smear of silicone has served my saws well.
 
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Yep, nice job.

Stihl used to have paper gaskets in the larger stihls, but they went to steel. Given the extra cost of a steel gasket, I assume it must be for good reason.

Paper gaskets were getting pounded out and developing loose head bolts and leaks. So if paper gaskets wern't cutting it for stock saws, I would think it would be an even greater problem with a saw running higher RPM and compression. A thin paper gasket is likely to have less problem than a thick gasket, but just the same there are better materials to use.

Just a thought, realy quite easy to cut a gasket out of aluminium or copper with an razor knife or box cutter.

Yeup I forgot to mention that you have to retorque after you run a tank of fuel (and I usually check it again after about 5 more tanks) when you use a paper gasket. I think with the relatively thin gasket and a good retorque you should have no real issues, at least I haven't so far.
 
Just measured a manilla folder at .010" under pressure and some brown paper (corrugated medium...I contract at a Paper Mill) to .008". Both would likely absorb the copper/silicone spray.

Just some additional options if a person is wishing to fine tune their clearences using Erick's technique.
 
Hmmm.....

TW has given me a great idea but I wont be able to get to it until this evening/night. Gotta go to the outlaws for Christmas today but when I get home I'll head down to the garage and get some pic's if it works like I think it will.
 
Lakeside53 said:
Stihl's steel gaskets have a crushable rim (gets flattened by assembly) AND they have a 2 thou coat of rubber on both sides.

+2, Stihl's coated base gaskets are the highest quality gaskets ever put into a saw. But then again, many of the parts Stihl has designed over the years are the highest quality put into a chainsaw.

Timberwolf said:
Stihl used to have paper gaskets in the larger stihls, but they went to steel. Given the extra cost of a steel gasket, I assume it must be for good reason.

I'm in agreement with this also, however, Stihl's paper gaskets were much thicker than the gasket Erick made (great work! I'll rep you when I get my shooter refilled). Stihl's paper gaskets were .020" and .040". Quite a bit more material there than the .004" that Erick came up with. I've used shopping paper bag gaskets on a couple of buddy's milling saws (because I didn't have anything else at the time and the shop was closed, and the owners don't like me opening the shop on a sunday:taped:), and they're still going after a year. I think the coating of spray copper or some other suitable liquid gasket really make a paper gasket work.
 
Can you say spray copper on aluminum foil.........metal gasket with silicone on both sides like a factory gasket????

Just checked the regular "thin" foil and it was .0005, thinking the heavy duty might be the way to go, might be .001 or .002 thick??

Thanks for the idea TW and Lakeside, looks like another late night in the garage.
 
If you want to fine tune the tickness you could always use a couple layers of foil with some goop between.

Check out the tickness of a beer can, I can't remeber for sure, but I think it was 2 or 3 thousandths.
 
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Greeting card thickness or it's equvilent, plus a very light coating of sealant on both sides has worked has worked for me ok when a stock gasket wasn't available or just isn't made anymore. I have never had luck at putting a cylinder back together without some sort of gasket and sealant as opposed to just using sealant by itself.

Larry
 
Finally!!!

Well I finally got around to posting the foil idea. Had to try a few different things to see what worked.

As I figured the heavy foil was .001
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First attempt I tried to make the silicone thicker by spraying multiple coats but I found that a single medium layer works best. Spray until you can just see an even coat of copper on the foil.

A light coat of copper and after drying in the convection oven a light coat was given to the other side and put in to dry.
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Without the paper to soak up the sillycone the foil took for ever to dry (24 hours on my first test) so tonight I put the foil into the convection oven to dry 10 min. at 175* spray other side 10 more minutes and ready for assembly. This thing is great for all sorts of uses (baking paint, heating cases for assembly, cooking biscuits, etc.) and it plugs into any 110 outlet in your shop or garage so I thought I'd post a pic of it so you'd know what your looking for at the yard sales.
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After drying the foil wasn't sticky enough to stick to the cylinder base and clamping it would not have been an option anyway as this stuff never fully dries on the foil and it would have made one heck of a mess clamping it up like I did the paper gasket. So I opted to lay the foil out on a flat surface and barely spray it with the spray copper again, made everything very tacky and I just sat the cylinder on the foil and picked it up carefully to trim. The object here is not to wrinkle the foil as that could create a possible leak.
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The cutting process is the same as the paper and just as easy. Just make sure you have a sharp razor.
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The finished product
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The final thickness of the gasket before assembly was .002 but I think after assembly it would be more like .001 or less. The silicone stays a little soft and I think after it is compressed and squished into place it would measure about .001. I really cant measure to be sure as only checking one location through the spark plug hole would allow for much more piston rock than the 4 corner method that I use to measure the final squish and would likely get a much different measurement.
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I don’t recommend using this gasket for mock-ups or test runs as it a huge PITA to remove once it’s on. That’s why I cant really measure an after assembly thickness because the gasket must be scraped off and is destroyed during removal. I will still use the paper for my test builds but once I know everything is right I think this gasket could be very useful for the final long term assembly. Even if I never use it, it’s still another trick in the bag thanks for the idea.
 
For all you guys looking for shim stock. Here is what the guys are talking about.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/GSDRVSM?PACACHE=000000039615993

You should also be able to get it from Enco, Granger, McMaster so pick your favorite.

You have a choice of materials and thickness, but it will cost some money if you want a variety of thickness as you hove to buy a roll. They may have a variety pack I didn't dig. I have a supply at work.

If any of you guys work in manufacturing where they do maintenence on punch press dies you should be able to find a source.

Don
 
Brad You can go to hobby store and get copper sheeting in a small roll they will have it in a few thicknesses I've had luck with it up to 220 lbs compression in other motors +1 on the spray copper.
 
Compression

The base gasket on a chainsaw usually will not see any compression. It will see more of a vacuum if anything... Correct me if I am wrong.
 
I have some rolls of different thicknesses of brass shim stock. shown here is .002 & .005 I also have some .008 & .012 I have never used it for a base gasket & I don't know what it would compress to, but I'm going to try it on the project I'm working on now with a light coat of red hi-temp rtv.
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Maybe another idea

If your using the aluminum foil, maybe try what I use for ductwork. The silver foil sticky tape that is about 4 inches wide and will cut your finger clean off if you rub it the wrong way.


So are cereal boxes not optimum to use b/c their too thick. Am I losing performance from using a thicker base gasket?
 
This is an absolutely priceless thread! I'm about to do complete rebuilds on a handful of saws and I don't want to deal with getting complete gasket sets for a bunch of old models. You guys rock. Long live AS!
 

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