This cylinder is toast, right?

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bama

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Definite

Toast
The pieces that are missing there are what most likely left the marks in the top band if you reuse it more will flake off until nasty failure
 
Did you by chance use acid to remove some melted aluminum from the bore?

I never would use acid on a plated or plasma sprayed bore because it will do just this.
I do not even use it in cast iron sleeves due to it's speed of penetration into aluminum. I only use acid on cranks but not in saws
 
PEST said:
Did you by chance use acid to remove some melted aluminum from the bore?

I never would use acid on a plated or plasma sprayed bore because it will do just this.
I do not even use it in cast iron sleeves due to it's speed of penetration into aluminum. I only use acid on cranks but not in saws
That is a good point PEST. I used acid on a old jug just to see how it worked and it eat the plating off. I never have used it on anything else.
 
I saw others posting about using muriatic

And I just waited for the inevitable. If you can keep the even diluted acid away for all the aluminum you might have a chance but there is no way I can see how you would be able to do that. Muriatic acid etch in aluminum is instant and ruins the bond between the nikasil and aluminum

crunch .......flake .........screech
 
PEST said:
Did you by chance use acid to remove some melted aluminum from the bore?

I never would use acid on a plated or plasma sprayed bore because it will do just this.
I do not even use it in cast iron sleeves due to it's speed of penetration into aluminum. I only use acid on cranks but not in saws

Yes, I used acid, but the plating was gone on the bottom portion. There may have been some penetration on the higher portion of the sides, but I guess I never really figured that the cylinder would be usable.

I haven't had a problem on the cylinders I have cleaned up with acid, but I have only done a dozen or so. I try to use just enough to get the aluminum and then wash it out right away with soap and water. I prefer to find cylinders in good working order to making them work.

The piston was pretty bad, but I was surprised it was by the transfers and not by the exhaust. Is that because of the open vs. closed transfers?

Any luck on that cylinder, PEST?
 
Which cylinder? Was it you needing the Partner cylinder?

I am a bit flu-ish and not up to par so if you could refresh my memory
 
I've never had any problem with acid.. and I just use the same strength available at HD - for concrete cleaning).

It's just a few drops put on with a q-tip, rubbed with a fine scotchbrite, thoughly washed off and then I put the entire cylinder in Purple cleaner (diluted) to neutralize any residual acid.

What I do like about acid is that it immediately shows (after honing) if you have a cut in the nikersil/chrome - the aluminum will show up as dark.
 
Lakeside53 said:
I've never had any problem with acid.. and I just use the same strength available at HD - for concrete cleaning).

It's just a few drops put on with a q-tip, rubbed with a fine scotchbrite, thoughly washed off and then I put the entire cylinder in Purple cleaner (diluted) to neutralize any residual acid.

What I do like about acid is that it immediately shows (after honing) if you have a cut in the nikersil/chrome - the aluminum will show up as dark.


Lakeside, what is Purple cleaner? Where do I get it? Will it take the grime off the outside of a cylinder. I can't get that junk off even with gasoline. I don't have access to many "hi tech" solutions, so I am always in search of the "magic" cleaning solution.
 
bama said:
Lakeside, what is Purple cleaner? Where do I get it? Will it take the grime off the outside of a cylinder. I can't get that junk off even with gasoline. I don't have access to many "hi tech" solutions, so I am always in search of the "magic" cleaning solution.


It's the same as Castrol Super Clean - most autoparts stores carry it.. Purple cleaner - one of the many generics with similar names. Dilute it 4:1, and never let it dry on alumiunum... and Wash thoughly...
 
Lakeside53 said:
It's the same as Castrol Super Clean - most autoparts stores carry it.. Purple cleaner - one of the many generics with similar names. Dilute it 4:1, and never let it dry on alumiunum... and Wash thoughly...
Boy you got that dry on aluminum part right. I left an old cylinder to soak in it for a day or two just to see how it worked and it came out about the size of a softball. I usually just soak my stuff in carb cleaner (dip style) or just sit it in the parts cleaner for a day or two.
 
can it be saved ?

thought this was the right thread to ask : have a look at the pic and please let me know if this cylinder can be salvaged ? It has the same marks on the inlet as outlet side. Pic of the piston is for info only.


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The purple cleaner is called "Purple Power", can't get Castrol Super Clean in Calif. so I tried this stuff. Used a 40oz. spray bottle then bought another full gallon at Wal-Mart. I was able to get carbon off of the tops of cylinders be letting it soak.
Good stuff and very affordable.
 
They don't look deep... You really won't know unless you hone it. The piston is obviously toast.


A new piston/cylinder from Tecomec is about a $100 over here...
 
bama, thats not pretty but there is a chance depending on your resources and handyness. what saw does this go on?
If the squish band is pitted you coult cut it with a lathe. you could relieve the bad part of the transfers equally on each side and knife edge the divider. you could probably pick up a little power too.

the easy way is to buy new. something came apart in the bottom end I assume and is probably toast.



Belgian, hone it I think you will be ok. that piston is only good for a paper weight.


Buck
 

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