This is my favorite cut!

[palogger]

personally i use this quite often, the reasons i use it are, that it helps reduce the chance of barber chair, and the major reason that i use it is to reduce fiber pull, especially when cutting veneer quailty logs. and to rephrase that it can't be used on heavy leaners, it can be but u can't bore as deep as u would on a straight tree

 

[smokechase II]

eliminate

"The point of this cut is to remove the heartwood eliminating barber chair"

I think while it can reduce barber chair risk it does not eliminate it.
Two examples:
One poster here has had two barber chair events, I believe it was a hardwood in Ohio even while face center boring.
A second poster, John Ellison recounted a barber chair of a spruce in Alaska, where there were no cuts whatsoever. It came over just after the climber had come down hanging the rigging. with just haywire weight.

===============

I do not believe there is any falling technique that will eliminate barber chair risk.

 

[Bermie]

Looks sorta like a cut for oversize trees where your bar isnt long enough but we put the notch in then bore through the centre

Ditto that,
And when felling a tall stump, to get rid of most of the hinge as there is no top weight to send it over, clean out 50%of the hinge from the front through the notch, then pull it over or lever it, less hinge fibres to hold it up.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

It is for when bar isn't long enough too. It is in Dent's bible "Professional Timber Falling ~ a Procedural Approach". It is for saving end the fatter, more valuable butt end wood.

In some theory, the center wood is older/ stiffer etc. This technique then punches out that section of more 'brittle' wood and reapportions the fibers to the outside 'younger' and moister fibers to flex them instead. thus, less barberchair and splintering up center. Also, it can grant more side to side control, by having more fibers to tense on the control side. Can even take out some fiber from behind hinge on offside, to have more of a punched out tapered hinge finish for some sidelean. Also, any hinging is going to stretch fibers. The amount of distance between the compressed side of hinge to the tensioned is the distance angle. The greater that multiplier is to control the same load, the less work and stretching the fibers do. (same model kinda as a tree missing 50% of core only losing 6% strength, the leveraged distance is same!) This "face punching" takes some of the center fibers and places them behind the 'side fibers', thus giving longer distance from compression and tension, thus a greater multiplier, so hinge fibers don't work as hard(availed to the higher leverage multiplier over the same loading). the same stretching of fibers happens in trimming, so we take off the weight in other cuts, then give a good finishing cut that won't allow stretching of fibers remaining in tree. This cleaner cut giving less 'courts' for nasties to make a grande entrance into.

 

[HolmenTree]

Species determines everthing. I am always amazed of the hingewood strength of an DED American elm. You can almost lower the tree to the ground at a snails pace by sawing the back of the hinge making it thinner.

 

[ropensaddle]

I have quit making notch with a chainsaw I notch with my stump
grinder a true open face just scotch the guard and swipe it a time
or three done no rocked chains stump one third ground:monkey:





































Just friggen kidding gosh