Throw Bags and line?

[JohnVander]

Hi all,
I'm going buy my first throw bag and line setup. Do any of you have a favorite weight of bag or line type. I used a plastic grocery bag tied up with rocks and dirt on my last job, so I figure it's time to fork out a few bucks and get the real deal. Any favorites, suggestions?

Thanks
John

 

[NickfromWI]

Get zing-it. There is no better throwline. 1.75mm size is smaller and throws higher. 2.25mm is stronger and easier on your fingers. I use 1.75 with an 8oz bag. Most others will be using a 10-12oz bag with the 1.75.

The faltheimer is the best throwline storage, but costs over 50.00. There are many other free or near-free options that are good.

love
nick

 

[JohnVander]

Thanks Guys,
What do you think about Big Shots are they a nesessity or a luxury?

John

 

[MasterBlaster]

The ZI does require some tender, loving care. It is definitely an advanced level of throwline.


And YES, pretty much, a BS is a necessity. And a heck of a time saver. I'll never not have one again!

 

[NickfromWI]

Advanced, but worth it!

And would a person who starts with ZI know the difference? To them it wouldn't be ZI, it would just be throwline.

Don't waste the time on the beginners throwline. You'll just end up with Zingit down the line and wonder why you ever got the cheapo stuff.

love
nick

 

[JohnVander]

I need to take down 8 Alders in a backyard. 4 are large (60') and 2 hang over a neighbors fence, so I figured I'd set lines in the center trees and swing the limbs away from the fence. I imagine that this real elementary for most of you guys, but using ropes to alter the fall of limbs is new for me. I generally climb free to prune (to 20 or 30') , or spike, drop the limbs, and piece down for un fallable removals. Anyway you guys on this forum are a huge help and I appreciate you taking time to help a rookie.

John

 

[Lumberjack]

The first thing that I would recommend is to stop everything and get a copy of The Tree Climbers Compainion. It is available through Sherrill (which is the banner at the top of the page).

Spikes on trims is hack, and free climb is unsafe.

 

[Greg]

You should learn to throw by hand first and well, but you do need a big shot.
Read Brians quote in Sherrill on the big shot page.
The BS just opens so many possibilities for rigging and climbing. I get ties ins in that top 4in crotch in the tree using a BS when I wouldn't even consider it possible without it, and having that great tie in will allow you to climb better. Same goes for rigging, it is no longer a big deal to quickly change your rigging point, you can move the lowering line around with a quick shot.
But learn to throw by hand! A Big shot will ruin you quickly.
Greg

 

[JohnVander]

(Lumberjack) That book is on order with my bag, line, and big shot. Also I don't trim decidous trees with spikes, however (with respect) I'd be surprised if many treemen in the Northwest acended into big conifers to do view improvement. Please correct me if I'm wrong I'm here to learn.

John

 

[Lumberjack]

You have one of the best attitudes i have seen in a while on AS.

If you truely want to learn, then THIS IS THE PLACE.


Trimming any tree is with spikes is bad, do a search on previous threads, there is alot of info available there.

With SRT and a BS you can access big trees faster than with spikes.

WELCOME TO AS!!!

 

[Tom Dunlap]

The Harrison Rocket throw bag is really nice. Very tight and compact. The smaller d-ring on the top means fewer snags. The Rocket is available from Fresco. A little more expensive but worth the performance.

I use an 8 ox with 1.75 Zing-It and rarely have it not be heavy enough to come back down. But...there are trees and situations that need a heavier bag. Then I use a 10 oz.

Tom

 

[JohnVander]

(Greg) Thanks for the tip. The great thing about doing tree work is that blast to do, and learn about. I also enjoy working efficiently and I hear that skill with a thow bag can really add many tricks to ones kit.

John

 

[JohnVander]

Lumberjack what is SRT and BS; and how long does it take to set lines and start climbing with these techiques. Also what is an average cost for the additional gear with these methods.

Thanks
John

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

If you'r going to shoot more then 120 ft of line on a regular basis, go with the larger line. The 1.75 tends to birdsnest frequently on long sections (do you have hanks of twine?)

Get yourself several throwbags, just incase you get one hung up and have to break the line out. This will happen often as you learn what to not pull the line through.

 

[JohnVander]

John,
I thought of getting larger line in hopes of avoiding tangles. I think now, I will get another bag as tangles and hangups have there own division at Murphy Inc. I know, I have had dealings with the fishing subdivision for a long time.

Thanks
John

 

[okietreedude1]

Here's my $.02 on the line issue:

I have both slickline (1/8" poly) and 1.75 zingit in my gear bag. Which get used most??? the slickline.

Why? Most of the trees here are smaller so a 100' piece of slick is handier. Also, many of the trees are full of junk that zingit is hard to navigate through.

As I said, I do have zingit. It is awesome stuff when a high crotch is actually available in an open tree. I used to use it all the time, but I got tired of fighting the ground clutter getting tangled up.

As for weight bags, I have several. I use 14 & 16 on my slick line and 12 on my zingit. I will switch a 14 over to use on the opposite end. I do know for a fact that the smaller weights allow higher throws as well as the Bshots, but like I said, we have short trees.

On the storage side, I know a guy w/ a linemug that spends as much time getting his line out and untangled as I do after Ive wrapped it aroung my arm. THIS IS ONLY ON THE SLICKLINE. The zingit MUST be stored in a bag of some sort. So is a bag necessary? NO. Ive seen sticks, notched 1x4's, tarps, even the extension cord holders. They all work. Its simply one man's opinion vs. anothers.

 

[Lumberjack]

Originally posted by JohnVander
Lumberjack what is SRT and BS; and how long does it take to set lines and start climbing with these techiques. Also what is an average cost for the additional gear with these methods.

Thanks
John

SRT stands for Single Rope Technique, I will post some threads in a sec.

BS= Big Shot

Setting the line takes under 5 min if everything goes right.

Additional gear, well for my setup I use a Pantin (also used for DdRT the trad way to climb), and an ascender.

Pantin is 55
and the ascender is 50, both from sherrill.


So about 105, but the pantin is good for tending slack in the DdRT setup.

 

[coydog]

yes, we routinely ascend into big conifers to do "view improvement" and we routinely do it without spikes.

 

[rbtree]

John, you're also in the PNW I see. I'm based out of Shoreline, dba Barnett Tree Care...you? You're welcome to come observe on one of my technical jobs....or chip in....I pay well.....

Hope you got 12 and 16 oz pouches. Nothing lighter will work in our PNW trees unless they're simple, small and smooth barked. Sorry Tom, I haven't got the time or patience to deal with one throw when the line wont return cause the pouch is too light....and that can often happen, even with a 12 and 1.75 ZI.
There's a bunch of good companies and arborists out here who climb anything and everything, for whatever pruning purpose, gaffless. gord (in Vancouver BC, and myself have lots of pictures posted here...use the search function and check it out.

SRT= single rope technique...mechanical ascenders required , many different methods.

BS =Big Shot

Here's a pic of the siberian elm that I sold to remove, by knocking on the door. We're gonna crane it out, have takers for the wood, both bowl turner and a miller. $1200, should take about 4 hours. It's a low price as the customer was unemployed, and not wealthy by any means..and I'm a nice guy... Now he got a job..and the neighbor is helping pay.

 

[JohnVander]

RBTree,
I'm with "little guy" landscape and tree in Kirkland.
A 14oz bag comes with the line/bag kit I'm looking at, I hope that will work for my Alder job (I'm freelancing for a friends company(We are removing 8 Alders for $2300, 4 are chunky). I'd also be glad to do frelance work dragging and bucking (if you had a big job) for you. I would like to see a pro operation at work. I have a business lic., tools, 3/4 ton truck, and take instruction when told (I've been responsible for men, and job completion myself). I also think it's really cool that you are going to use that wood for something other than fire, or Pacific topsoils' various mulches.

Thanks
John