I run a Tillotson HL314G on my Open Modified Honda GX-200 Kart engine. It's got the .890 Venturi, and 1.000" throttle bore. Great carbs, great for power!
I have to rebuild about every 5 running hours however, dont know why, we just have to rebuild them more often on 4 strokes...the metering dipahragm becomes very stretched.
The only thing Im not sure about on your rebuild is why you arent using the new style captivated needle with the new style captivated metering level? They were in unison, great results doing it that way. I tried your way on accident the first time I rebuilt mine, and it wouldnt tune, even with the pop-off set at 10lbs, it wouldnt tune..
Also, why arent you setting your pop-off? Correct pop-off is the key to a tilly Being off by just a couple pounds can make it not run properly..lean out at high demands, flood at idle, etc.
If you ever want a good price on some stock kits, apskarting has a full array of all Tillotson HL and HG carb kits, from shutters, to kits, to pump bodys, carb bodys, inlets, screens (brass and SS). If you ever want to dabble in hopping one up...ecdistributing makes an array of trick parts for them, from a custom diaphragm that reacts faster, high flow needle and seat, trick pump skins, you name it! Also, if you ever want to talk to the Tillotson master, they have a forum where you can talk to E.C Birt himself.
Ive got a new Tilly on its way Im going to try out, I think it's a HL-388, could be an HL304WX..guy wasnt sure which he sent.
those parts sources you listed in this post are awesome, they have everything, and lots of trick stuff too- the popoff spring is a very critical part of the carburetor. I tried a popoff spring from another carb and the saw would not run, and I had to put the old one spring back in. Each carb is calibrated to application with that spring- bigger saws with more cubes will have a richer spring than smaller saws with small displacement. Keeping the original tune spring is critical, to keep the saw in OEM specs.
great info on this thread, I've referred to it a few times already getting the HL carb on my DB 360 saw ironed out. I'd like to add a few things I've found while doing my own carb.
The adjustment needle screws for high and low metering setting- I found the longer one goes in the "H" hole, the shorter one goes in the "L" hole. "long-high, short-low"- in case you get them mixed up, that's an easy way to remember it.
the different needle valves and seats issue- the new style forked lever with captivated needle valve, uses a shorter needle valve and shallower seat as well- they are not interchangeable with the old style "type 88" kit needles/seats. Putting the old needle valve in the new seat, the seat will stick up too far. The improved seat has a metal seat area, and is not bored through like the old style seat is.
the old style "type 88" seats, to remove the rubber O-ring from the bottom of the seat, remove the seat first, then just push the O-ring out using the needle valve as a push tool- the old style "88" seats are bored all the way through like a tube- this makes cleaning them easy if you need to reuse an old seat, take a pipe cleaner or very fine 1000 grade emery that just polishes the surface inside- and old needle valve can be polished in this manner as well, then the needle/seat slides easily without getting stuck, if that was the original problem
the new shallow seats use a copper o-ring on bottom to seal, the old "type 88" seats use a rubber O-ring that goes inside the bottom of the seat, the O-ring is flat on one side, and has a dimple facing outwards on the other side- all the seals I've seen so far, have the dimple facing outward/downward when installed, and the flat side of seal to the needle valve
I set initial H and L screws per this thread at 1 turn out on L, and 1-1/4 turn out on H, and have not had to touch it since, it runs great at idle and WOT right there.
I noticed that there are (3) governor linkage holes on the left side of my carb, it was in the middle hole originally so I left it there, but it appears that max WOT rpm can be adjusted up or down by moving the governor linkage connection on the carb.
when I removed the intake manifold tube and reed cage, I noticed that the intake/reed gasket was partially covering the port around the edges of the reed ports, and impeding flow somewhat- I cut the gasket with sharp scissors to open that up all around, so it didn't block gas flow- being careful not to cut apart that tiny transfer port of gasket that goes back to the carb- the result was, the engine ran better at WOT and idled better. Watch for correct gasket fit between intake tube and reed block (this has 4 small reed valves)
