Timber Bear not starting

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If the passages in the carb aren't plugged, it could be that the metering lever is too low, or for whatever reason the metering diaphragm isn't allowing enough fuel into the H/L circuits.
I'd be cautious about bending the metering lever though, unless it was grossly out of adjustment.
 
If the passages in the carb aren't plugged, it could be that the metering lever is too low, or for whatever reason the metering diaphragm isn't allowing enough fuel into the H/L circuits.
I'd be cautious about bending the metering lever though, unless it was grossly out of adjustment.
The metering lever is flush with the carb to plate mating surface
 
You rock!
ok, so bad news...... the spare carb is doing possibly the same thing yours is. will idle, wont rev up. but, if i put the choke on while trying to rev it up, it revs up into the high rpm. i stopped playing with it so i dont hurt my saw. my thought is the hi speed screw passage is clogged. this spare carb came from a saw with a melted piston so this is maybe why. i put my good carb back on it and its good again. i can still send you this carb, maybe i didnt clean it well enough when i rebuilt it. youd have to play with it. the carb kit parts are new.
 
ok, so bad news...... the spare carb is doing possibly the same thing yours is. will idle, wont rev up. but, if i put the choke on while trying to rev it up, it revs up into the high rpm. i stopped playing with it so i dont hurt my saw. my thought is the hi speed screw passage is clogged. this spare carb came from a saw with a melted piston so this is maybe why. i put my good carb back on it and its good again. i can still send you this carb, maybe i didnt clean it well enough when i rebuilt it. youd have to play with it. the carb kit parts are new.
I appreciate it. I'll pass on it, and maybe I'll throw my donor carb on and see how that one responds.
 
Read this whole thread and the information is impressive even if I am in limbo as of post 190.
I kept forming opinions and sooner or later someone would chime in with a different option.
Now if I can retain some of it is on me. Post #80 is new to me.. (And most of the rest of 'em)
No derails and a lot of information.. Any progress on rodding the ports under the welsh plug?
 
Try turning the high speed needle out 5-6 turns, it might pull the trash out of the passage
on other things (leaf blower)ive had luck removing the high speed needle and spraying starter fluid into the hole. not to start anything but i figured starter fluid was safer on gaskets than carb cleaner. another time(on a larger carburetor) i used a dental water pick and screwed the plastic nozzle into the drain screw hole of a carb and aggitated things by flushing the bowl with berrymans carb cleaner/fuel additive. that berrymans in a can is amazing stuff. i used to clean heavily varnished carbs on old motorcycles by making a tiny temp gas tank, like water bottle or something, and a bike would actually start and run on pure berrymans. id run bike for a few seconds then shut off, wait a day, then drain carb and repeat. between the dental pick trick and the running a bike on berrymans i once took a 79 honda cb750 that the carbs were varnished stuck(and one the inlet was varnished shut nd floats stuck, hence the dental pick trick) and got away with a good running bike. i really didnt want to rebuild and sync the 4 carbs linked together. anyway, long story i know. but, now im wondering if berrymans could be used pure in a chainsaw. im assuming id want to mix it with the oil like it was regular fuel? or would 10 to 15 seconds of running the saw with pure berrymans hurt the saw? like if a saw were started for 10 seconds with plain fuel, would that be enough time to damage it?
 
on other things (leaf blower)ive had luck removing the high speed needle and spraying starter fluid into the hole. not to start anything but i figured starter fluid was safer on gaskets than carb cleaner. another time(on a larger carburetor) i used a dental water pick and screwed the plastic nozzle into the drain screw hole of a carb and aggitated things by flushing the bowl with berrymans carb cleaner/fuel additive. that berrymans in a can is amazing stuff. i used to clean heavily varnished carbs on old motorcycles by making a tiny temp gas tank, like water bottle or something, and a bike would actually start and run on pure berrymans. id run bike for a few seconds then shut off, wait a day, then drain carb and repeat. between the dental pick trick and the running a bike on berrymans i once took a 79 honda cb750 that the carbs were varnished stuck(and one the inlet was varnished shut nd floats stuck, hence the dental pick trick) and got away with a good running bike. i really didnt want to rebuild and sync the 4 carbs linked together. anyway, long story i know. but, now im wondering if berrymans could be used pure in a chainsaw. im assuming id want to mix it with the oil like it was regular fuel? or would 10 to 15 seconds of running the saw with pure berrymans hurt the saw? like if a saw were started for 10 seconds with plain fuel, would that be enough time to damage it?
I hate when these threads die like this
 
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