Timber Bear not starting

[forgetaboudit]

Yeah, the lo makes it run well at WOT but dies at idle.
High does no difference

 

[Bubster]

Yeah, the lo makes it run well at WOT but dies at idle.
High does no difference

Get the most rpms with the lo needle at wot.It takes a bit a time.Tune the hi needle for power in the cut.If your saw seems to lack power in the cut,or seems to be running too high rpm,back out the hi side.Just a slight turn will make a big difference if everything is right.Glad you got her goin.

 

[ammoaddict]

Yeah, the lo makes it run well at WOT but dies at idle.
High does no difference

Just found this tuning info, not sure if it will help you but here it is.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm
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[Jasonrkba]

You could be tuning it properly. The chain moving could be a sticky clutch. Get it warm and at idle, back the L needle out until it starts to slow down then turn it in until it speeds up. Split the difference. If the chain is moving back off the idle screw. If it won't stay running it could be wrong plug, sticky clutch or god forbid an air leak.

 

[Jasonrkba]

By sticky clutch I mean weak springs. I could have been clearer there.

 

[forgetaboudit]

I've got the idol and the low screw set properly. It runs like a champ except it bogs down at full throttle and when I put it into a piece of wood to chew on it doesn't do anything. As soon as the chain hits the wood it doesn't run wide open

 

[Bubster]

I've got the idol and the low screw set properly. It runs like a champ except it bogs down at full throttle and when I put it into a piece of wood to chew on it doesn't do anything. As soon as the chain hits the wood it doesn't run wide open

turn the hi needle out a 1/4 turn

 

[forgetaboudit]

turn the hi needle out a 1/4 turn

Makes no difference

 

[forgetaboudit]

turn the hi needle out a 1/4 turn

Makes no difference

 

[J D]

By sticky clutch I mean weak springs. I could have been clearer there.

Can also be gunk packed around the clutch or needle bearing

 

[forgetaboudit]

Can also be gunk packed around the clutch or needle bearing

Removed clutch to get to the tensioner. All is clean and lubed up. No issues there.

 

[heimannm]

Check your throttle linkage, the 600 Series are subject some flex in the anti-vide mounts and if the linkage is on the edge, it can affect the throttle position.

Mark

 

[RED-85-Z51]

We need a video at this point

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Jasonrkba]

I cant remember if you changed the plug but a bad one can do exactly what you described. Does your carb have a governor on the side?

 

[forgetaboudit]

We need a video at this point

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Not surehow to get one. Tried but it was too large to add.

I cant remember if you changed the plug but a bad one can do exactly what you described. Does your carb have a governor on the side?

I put a new one in at the start of the issues. Maybe flooding it ruined it? I doubt it though.
No governor that I know of

 

[Lee192233]

I assume you pulled the H & L needles and sprayed carb cleaner through them. Kinda sounds like the H needle circuit is plugged.

 

[MacAttack]

It's not getting enough fuel on the top. I would check the high speed circuit for any obstructions.
As far as the 2 gaskets for the fuel pump, I could be entirely wrong but there is a chance you're supposed to use both of them, one as a gasket, and the second as a sort of support or spacer for the fuel pump diaphragm.
When I rebuilt a Zama carb in a Homelite, the carb originally had a gasket and a sort of plastic diaphragm (forgot the name). The new Zama rebuild kit came with a buna rubber pump diaphragm, a gasket, and also a Teflon "support" gasket for the pump. The assembly diagram showed to use all 3. The saw runs great and pumps a lot of fuel.
So, I am not saying I'm "right", but it's not impossible that it's not pumping enough fuel without that 2nd gasket.

 

[forgetaboudit]

It's not getting enough fuel on the top. I would check the high speed circuit for any obstructions.
As far as the 2 gaskets for the fuel pump, I could be entirely wrong but there is a chance you're supposed to use both of them, one as a gasket, and the second as a sort of support or spacer for the fuel pump diaphragm.
When I rebuilt a Zama carb in a Homelite, the carb originally had a gasket and a sort of plastic diaphragm (forgot the name). The new Zama rebuild kit came with a buna rubber pump diaphragm, a gasket, and also a Teflon "support" gasket for the pump. The assembly diagram showed to use all 3. The saw runs great and pumps a lot of fuel.
So, I am not saying I'm "right", but it's not impossible that it's not pumping enough fuel without that 2nd gasket.

All diagrams I've looked at for.my carb only show the diaphram and 1 gasket. Im pretty sure they're the right diagrams. Maybe ill throw them both on and see how she goes

 

[MacAttack]

This diagram is for a Zama carb but illustrates what Im talking about, there is a gasket and then a retainer along with the fuel pump diaphragm. Maybe something...maybe not.

 

[MacAttack]

All diagrams I've looked at for.my carb only show the diaphram and 1 gasket. Im pretty sure they're the right diagrams. Maybe ill throw them both on and see how she goes

I would try cleaning the high speed carb fuel passages first. If it still starves for fuel wide open, maybe try the extra gasket.