Timberline sharpeners

[BobL]

First thing I notice is the raker looks like it has never been touched?
If I tried milling Aussie hardwoods with that cutter/raker setup the cutter simply would not penetrate sufficiently to make decent chips and it would instead generate a lot of powder and the saw would not self feed.
The pink rectangle shows how much should be removed from the rakers to generate a moderate 6º raker angle.

In your softwoods you could easily go another 20% or more if you are game.
Mtngun from Idaho was using 9º last time i heard from him.

Also I would remove that little pimple in the gullet,

 

[scheffa]

That is indeed a very nice looking cutter. I do agree with bob on the raker height.
I guess chains are a thing that we take for granted, there is much more to sharpening a chain than most think.
Also for milling I feel as this is exaggerated by the length and width of the cut.
For me using a chain that isn't as sharp as I can get it" which could be improved" can add 10-15 minutes to cut when milling dead yellow box at 1800mm wide and 4.5m long

 

[BobL]

For me using a chain that isn't as sharp as I can get it" which could be improved" can add 10-15 minutes to cut when milling dead yellow box at 1800mm wide and 4.5m long

Fo something like dry Yellow Box (Janka hardness of about 3000lbs) the last thing you want is a cutter that is too pointy or has too low a top plate cutting angle. It will cut fast at the start but the YB will knock the edge off very quickly and it will rapidly slow down. Also I wouldn't use full chisel but semi chisel. I forgot - have you posted a side on picture of your cutters that I can diagnose?

 

[MGoBlue]

First thing I notice is the raker looks like it has never been touched?
If I tried milling Aussie hardwoods with that cutter/raker setup the cutter simply would not penetrate sufficiently to make decent chips and it would instead generate a lot of powder and the saw would not self feed.
The pink rectangle shows how much should be removed from the rakers to generate a moderate 6º raker angle. Also I would remove that little pimple in the gullet,

As stated.... that pic was for FINISH purposes only. This was a GTG chain(cutting cookies w/ a ported(modified) saw that likes maybe 13k in the cut, cutting clean softwood). Do you know or have you ever been to one? I wasn't looking for advice.
In fact the raker hadn't been touched yet (4 yr old pic). What I was taught to do is get my tooth right then begin to slowly bring the raker down to load the saw where I want it(rpm wise). I 10000% trust the chain guru I got this advice from and I agree.... there is a lot to learn, from the right person/peope. But thanks?

 

[BobL]

As stated.... that pic was for FINISH purposes only. This was a GTG chain(cutting cookies w/ a ported(modified) saw that likes maybe 13k in the cut, cutting clean softwood). Do you know or have you ever been to one? I wasn't looking for advice.

If you post in this forum you will always get free advice.

My main GTG experiences are all old school. Dad was an Aussie hardwood faller started with axes on 200+ ft tall karri. Working with a partner it would take them a day and half to being down and break up these trees into 12 fit lengths . I started going bush with dad and a half dozen other fallers on weekends and school vacations from when I was about 6 years old. I used to carry the mix and lube and when I was about 9 I was shown how to sharpen and did this for their saws up until I was about 14 when I realised I could work elsewhere and get paid. What I learnt from these GTGs was mainly not how to sharpen and eventually went back to first principles and worked things out for myself.

In fact the raker hadn't been touched yet (4 yr old pic).

Based on the width of the gullet and the position of that little pimple in the gullet that's a lot of metal to remove before addressing the raker.
FWIW My rakers get dropped even on new chain.