Cut em long say a foot or so from the stem. gives you a little more time to readjust and some more flex to drag the bar out if needed.
Cedars here have them long curvy limbs that can be hard to judge.
Tongue and groove feeling technique
- Thread starter chuckwood
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Cedars here have them long curvy limbs that can be hard to judge.
No thanks, one broken nose was enough cutting Cyprus With a higher cut than usual. That puts the butt closer to your face. Proper assessment and slowing down on some to find the bind is the answer. I respectfully disagree with this.
*edits in....just makes it safer all around IF one fails to "mis something"
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
If it's real bushy i will cut away from the log first to take weight off of them ,but sometimes they will turn and pinch ,i just realized i was not in the falling pics thread oops ,sorry guys for the derail about the palms
Well " if it ain't broke then don't fix it"
it doesn't matter what someone else does thats with in THEIR ABILLITY, thats not YOUR comfort level as YOU'RE not experienced in these methods.
Retention falling is not a place to practice new techniques. Most fallers are killed by there own hang ups.
Only bar I have ever bent was on a 12" tree cause I was determined to make it fall where I wanted it and too proud to throw the chain on it. Think I spent 10 hrs straightening that bar out of embarrassment
Knobby57
Peeing outdoors
Quarter 1/4 works great for small trees
Enough with the palm trees already. The cut shown above seems to be the same as used by fordf150 in the firewood thread titled Depth of Face Cut. Ron
2strokenut
One nut loose
With most palms these techniques work well because of the even weighted heads. As for small trees this is not the case. I have found the head weight has a lot to do with the way the tree moves when felling. Useing both the techniques in the clips, I only use them if the head weight and tree lean is where I want the tree to fall.
If you're getting pinched you're reading the bind wrong. You're not cutting for scale, slow down a little and pay better attention. If you're in doubt about where the bind is just put a little run in the wood with your tip and see what the kerf does. If it's a real wolfy tree you could also make your first cut farther out on the limb, relieve the tension, and then come back and slick off the pig ears.
You're not logging so have some fun with it. Relax.
Amen.
We all need to know how to work with palm trees. Climate change will cause a transformation of the forest. Palms could be the next Doug-fir.
Let's hope not. I've cut one palm tree in my whole life. I'll never cut another.
fordf150
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
Same cut except I was using plastic wedges and a hatchet to drive wedges.
So help me god, I'll move to the NW Territories...
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Ditto. The one and only I messed with got its revenge - spike between toe joints (I was wearing safety jandles at the time) caused infection and I moped around for a fortnight before relenting and spending two days in hospital. Another KiwiBro Darwin moment, of many.
Technique??
Heck, I just whack 'em off and run like hell‼
I'VE MOVED HERE
Heck, I just whack 'em off and run like hell‼
I'VE MOVED HERE
the GOAT
Chainsaw truther
Have you tried the slowp'ing back cut?
By slopping back cut do you mean a high angle back cut while cutting toward the hinge?
I'd think a tiny bit of angle my work but IMHO a steep angled back cut puts to much pressure on the hinge. There is a chance the hinge could sheer if you are cutting a heavy back leaner. I never cut angled back cuts. A horizontal back cut made in line with or slightly above the hinge line, when properly wedged has always worked well for me. If the hinge sheers that tree can fall anywhere. I'd NEVER recommend an angled back cut but I've seen it done on small trees even though it's been known to work I didn't think it's worth the wrist. On small trees that can be hand guided or pulled with a rope, I like a Snap or bypass cut. On small back leaners when I'm being lazy I may make a small face cut then bore through the center front to back making a wedge clearance slot. Then open the slot, drive a wedge, cut both sides up to the hinge and drive the wedge till she falls. One an especially severe leaner I've cut one face cut, bore cut and driven a wedge but it was still leaning back. So I cut another face cut above the first one and plunged it and repeated the same way until the tree went down. It looked kinda kinky backed. The danger is that center section may double back and both hinges snap. I've got plenty of all size ropes and tossing a rope over a limb is the safest method. This is my opinion, yours may vary.
I'd think a tiny bit of angle my work but IMHO a steep angled back cut puts to much pressure on the hinge. There is a chance the hinge could sheer if you are cutting a heavy back leaner. I never cut angled back cuts. A horizontal back cut made in line with or slightly above the hinge line, when properly wedged has always worked well for me. If the hinge sheers that tree can fall anywhere. I'd NEVER recommend an angled back cut but I've seen it done on small trees even though it's been known to work I didn't think it's worth the wrist. On small trees that can be hand guided or pulled with a rope, I like a Snap or bypass cut. On small back leaners when I'm being lazy I may make a small face cut then bore through the center front to back making a wedge clearance slot. Then open the slot, drive a wedge, cut both sides up to the hinge and drive the wedge till she falls. One an especially severe leaner I've cut one face cut, bore cut and driven a wedge but it was still leaning back. So I cut another face cut above the first one and plunged it and repeated the same way until the tree went down. It looked kinda kinky backed. The danger is that center section may double back and both hinges snap. I've got plenty of all size ropes and tossing a rope over a limb is the safest method. This is my opinion, yours may vary.
Small tree, just put he excavator or backhoe bucket against the trunk and push (occasionally pull) the little thing over.
Or I pull with sufficient length wire rope.
Have never tried that wedge in a slot technique.
Or I pull with sufficient length wire rope.
Have never tried that wedge in a slot technique.
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