too much bar?

[chipper1]

I got a 7/32 file in that guide and went around and touched up all the cutters with a few pulls , I can get more gullet on it later , but there was a noticeable difference pulling the 7/32 through after having sharpened with the 13/64 the last few times . it was a little dark for this picture but it is a little more open. but this chain was still cutting well

View attachment 689883

I have a box of chains that look just like this or worse at the house .
If you say it cuts well like that, I think you would really enjoy a chain that had the gullet cleaned out and some hook on it.
It also looks to be very dull to me as the cutter is rounded at the one of the most crucial "points". It should be taken back until there is no damage left.
That chain looks to be a full chisel chain, but the corner is very rounded off. I would also agree that the rakers look as though they have been taken down to far, which would help compensate for the condition of the tooth, but is unnecessary if the tooth is sharpened properly.

For the length of a bar there are a lot of factors that matter to me, but your formula is about right.
On a 50cc pro saw I an 18 is where I like to be cutting max size of 10-12 on a normal basis, but I will burry it is it's less time than running to the truck to grab a 70 with a 20-24. I don't run the 60cc saws very often but I like a 20 on a 60cc pro saw but will sometimes run a 24 in softwood or if the saw is ported.

Is the chain on your 2255 and 18 and 20x325 or 3/8(picture looks like 3/8).

 

[chipper1]

Heres a tooth on a 325 semi chisel Carlton I just received the other day.
Because it was newer I couldn't take the front of the gullet down any more without nipping the back of the raker with the grinding wheel(that's not a big deal for the raker, but I like my wheel, it's a little wide for the 325 as it's for a 3/8). My vise is busy so I couldn't file it out either, so this is mainly in regards to the hook that is missing, but as was said the rakers are a separate deal many times when filing or grinding. When cleaning out the gullet I prefer that they are down just as low as the factory has them. If I was to go deeper with the grinder then a goofy file would be needed to sharpen this chain in the field effectively as it would be hard to hold a round file up to get the tooth sharp again, you also loose the "C"/hook and it becomes a straight line which is okay but requires a little more off the rakers to help the chain self feed.
With a file I also would have gotten a little more hook and more out under the outside edge of the tooth because I was using a wheel sized for 3/8.

 

[Country bumpkin]

Heres a tooth on a 325 semi chisel Carlton I just received the other day.
Because it was newer I couldn't take the front of the gullet down any more without nipping the back of the raker with the grinding wheel(that's not a big deal for the raker, but I like my wheel, it's a little wide for the 325 as it's for a 3/8). My vise is busy so I couldn't file it out either, so this is mainly in regards to the hook that is missing, but as was said the rakers are a separate deal many times when filing or grinding. When cleaning out the gullet I prefer that they are down just as low as the factory has them. If I was to go deeper with the grinder then a goofy file would be needed to sharpen this chain in the field effectively as it would be hard to hold a round file up to get the tooth sharp again, you also loose the "C"/hook and it becomes a straight line which is okay but requires a little more off the rakers to help the chain self feed.
With a file I also would have gotten a little more hook and more out under the outside edge of the tooth because I was using a wheel sized for 3/8.
View attachment 690383 View attachment 690384

Ya did good buddy!!

 

[chipper1]

Ya did good buddy!!

Thanks James, I'm not a big fan of 325.
Just remembered I have my 325 grinder all set up I could have used .
It wasnt on the bench as I was going to sell it, got the pictures and all but never listed it, out of sight out of mind.

 

[Country bumpkin]

Thanks James, I'm not a big fan of 325.
Just remembered I have my 325 grinder all set up I could have used .
It wasnt on the bench as I was going to sell it, got the pictures and all but never listed it, out of sight out of mind.

I gotcha. One setup is nice. I use it on 2 saws. Aggravated out on the farm if I have the right files or not.

 

[chipper1]

I gotcha. One setup is nice. I use it on 2 saws. Aggravated out on the farm if I have the right files or not.

I've got 4 .
All my 325 stuff is in the suburban.
Just did one yesterday for the 545/ small saws, 16", the 18 on the 550 is ready to go.

 

[James Miller]

Thanks James, I'm not a big fan of 325.
Just remembered I have my 325 grinder all set up I could have used .
It wasnt on the bench as I was going to sell it, got the pictures and all but never listed it, out of sight out of mind.

I don't care for 325 either. So everything runs 3/8 or 3/8lp also make for one less file when I'm cutting.

 

[Trapper_Pete]

I have a box of chains that look just like this or worse at the house .
If you say it cuts well like that, I think you would really enjoy a chain that had the gullet cleaned out and some hook on it.
It also looks to be very dull to me as the cutter is rounded at the one of the most crucial "points". It should be taken back until there is no damage left.
That chain looks to be a full chisel chain, but the corner is very rounded off. I would also agree that the rakers look as though they have been taken down to far, which would help compensate for the condition of the tooth, but is unnecessary if the tooth is sharpened properly.

For the length of a bar there are a lot of factors that matter to me, but your formula is about right.
On a 50cc pro saw I an 18 is where I like to be cutting max size of 10-12 on a normal basis, but I will burry it is it's less time than running to the truck to grab a 70 with a 20-24. I don't run the 60cc saws very often but I like a 20 on a 60cc pro saw but will sometimes run a 24 in softwood or if the saw is ported.

Is the chain on your 2255 and 18 and 20x325 or 3/8(picture looks like 3/8).

3/8 .058 on my 2255 , I have an 18 and 20 inch bar but mainly use the 18 inch bar

if I get time later today I will try opening up the gullet and see how it cuts.

 

[chipper1]

I don't care for 325 either. So everything runs 3/8 or 3/8lp also make for one less file when I'm cutting.

I like those two also.

3/8 .058 on my 2255 , I have an 18 and 20 inch bar but mainly use the 18 inch bar

if I get time later today I will try opening up the gullet and see how it cuts.

If you can get the gullet clean and the hook in it you will be much happier with it.
I just cleaned the gullet on this one this morning, it seems to have gotten a bit fast, I think a 20 or 24 runs well on this saw.

 

[Husky Man]

Too Much Bar?????? Blasphemy, No Such Thing.

What you have ISN'T Too Much Bar, you just don't have enough SAW for your bar, or you don't have enough LOG for your Bar

Solution? Get a BIGGER SAW,, or Find a BIGGER LOG, the Bar is Fine


Doug

 

[James Miller]

I like those two also.

If you can get the gullet clean and the hook in it you will be much happier with it.
I just cleaned the gullet on this one this morning, it seems to have gotten a bit fast, I think a 20 or 24 runs well on this saw.

Is that the poleman work saw you talked about?

 

[Trapper_Pete]

Too Much Bar?????? Blasphemy, No Such Thing.

What you have ISN'T Too Much Bar, you just don't have enough SAW for your bar, or you don't have enough LOG for your Bar

Solution? Get a BIGGER SAW,, or Find a BIGGER LOG, the Bar is Fine


Doug

perhaps "Too much bar for the saw ?" would have been a better tittle.

working on the bigger saw but for right now working on cutting all I can with the 2255 I have a lot of logs that I have to cut from both sides to work down about 6-7 rounds to the half ton then the truck is full and squatting and it is ready to go home.

 

[Husky Man]

I just need to find a Big enough Log

[photo=large]5402[/photo]
It does get a bit "Nose Heavy", but if I eat my Wheaties, in the morning, I can limb from the ground without a Ladder




[photo=large]5172[/photo]

This one does get a bit more use firewood cutting


Doug

 

[chipper1]

Is that the poleman work saw you talked about?

No, it's another one of the miller mod saws a 7900, little less power than the 7910 I have he did.

 

[Trapper_Pete]

I like those two also.

If you can get the gullet clean and the hook in it you will be much happier with it.
I just cleaned the gullet on this one this morning, it seems to have gotten a bit fast, I think a 20 or 24 runs well on this saw.

I removed the guide and filed again getting deeper down into the gullet , your right I don't need the guide it cuts nice without the guide .

I did a few cuts on some 18 inch maple and then noodled the round

my 55cc saw is no where near as fast as you 79cc saw I was pulling nice big chip but the time for the saw to work through 18 inches was about 35-37 seconds I have video but not sure how to post it just yet

I had never done much noodling that went faster than the cross cut but I don't have a time on it , it did not seem to pull all that hard either .

 

[jchipps]

I removed the guide and filed again getting deeper down into the gullet , your right I don't need the guide it cuts nice without the guide .

View attachment 690511

You're getting the hang of it. That's starting to look a lot better than the pic in post #9

Maybe it's just the angle the pic was taken, but still looks like your top plate angle might be a little less than desirable for normal cutting. (looks to be about 15 degrees)
Increase that angle back to about 30 degrees while keeping that gullet down where it belongs, and she'll cut much better.

 

[jchipps]

Te each his own but I suspect a lot of hand filers would change to a guide if they
tried a good one.

Ya, i agree to each his own - but I 'suspect' a lot of guide and gadget users would throw them away, if they'd simply 'learn' to free-hand file a chain the good old way.

The human brain is by far a 'more sophisticated tool', and those 3 angles you speak of (2 of which take care of each other by the way) are no match for it, once it learns what ya want it to do.

Good day brother, and keep on keepin' on

 

[chipper1]

I removed the guide and filed again getting deeper down into the gullet , your right I don't need the guide it cuts nice without the guide .

I did a few cuts on some 18 inch maple and then noodled the round

my 55cc saw is no where near as fast as you 79cc saw I was pulling nice big chip but the time for the saw to work through 18 inches was about 35-37 seconds I have video but not sure how to post it just yet

I had never done much noodling that went faster than the cross cut but I don't have a time on it , it did not seem to pull all that hard either .View attachment 690511

Looks better.
It wasn't me who said you don't need the guide, I'm not against guides, if a guy needs them to make his chains cut nice and it works for him, so be it.
As said above if you take a picture with the camera perpendicular to the tooth/bar then we can tell a lot more about where it's really at, camera angle real matters. Your other chains had excessive top plate angle just so you know, it will cut fine like that for a while, but they will start to wonder quickly as they dull, and they will dull quicker too.
As far as videos go I load them to youtube and then I copy the URL and put it in my post in the order I want it to be.

 

[woodfarmer]

I wanted to put my tsumura light bar on my 2159, but it’s a large mount bar. Oh well guess it will stay on the 2165.

 

[sirbuildalot]

I just processed a half dozen big red oak logs, ranging from 26"-32" diameter. The GB 32" bar sure was nice for bucking them nice and straight and for noodling them. I touched up the full chisel with a Total file beforehand, and it sliced through smooth as buttermilk.

I still say for 90% of the wood I come up against though, the 20" bar is perfect for a big saw, and a 16" on my smaller saws.