These are NOS. My dad has a set of VACCO wire cutter/crimper/bolt cutters that hes had 30 years.
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These are NOS. My dad has a set of VACCO wire cutter/crimper/bolt cutters that hes had 30 years.
Brmorgan
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Got the Yates knife grinder home
I was finally able to line up a truck and trailer to bring that grinder home from work. I had to get the loaderman to hoist it onto the trailer with a chain, but Dad and I were able to "walk" it off the back using a ramp board without too much difficulty.
I managed to coax the 066 into posing for the camera for a little perspective on size. It's wearing a 24/25" bar. It has a 24" wide table, and full-length travel, so I can grind up to a 24" long knife in theory. That would even cover the chipper knives from the mill! It would take quite a while to grind a set of those on one of these though; the automatic bed grinder at work does them in a flash and auto-balances them to boot.
Well, here's a sign of its true age. Not too many tools are running babbitt bearings anymore! The shaft is fairly scored from junk getting into the bearing grease, but the babbitt is still tight as a drum. I don't know how to re-pour them, but I do remember reading about it once. I think it might have been in one of my old (1970s) Fine Woodworking magazines. I suppose it would be possible to convert it to ball bearings, but you would have to build bearing mounts that bolt down to the existing bolt holes, and I don't know how it could be done without raising the arbor at least an inch or more. And it wouldn't look stock anymore either. I don't have a problem with the babbitt though; at least they're infinitely serviceable! I can get as much of the stuff as I'd ever need from work too.
After some lube and a bit of elbow grease, I managed to get pretty much everything freed up and moving. Both cross-slide mechanisms on the table are butter smooth, though rusted. The wheel for the table's vertical adjustment is a bit anemic at ~7" dia. though; there's no way I can get enough leverage on the knob to move the table with one hand. A nice 10"+ wheel would be nice; I'll keep my eyes open for something I can use. There are a few at work from the old molder/planer, though I don't think they're that big.
The stack of discs in the last pic came out of the dropoff bin at the scrap yard. The bevel stone on the main arbor also came from there; I don't know what they're worth but they're not cheap. It's identical to the ones we use to grind the big Chip-N-Saw square-base knives at the mill. Some of the discs are for a slightly larger arbor, so I guess I'll have to get a few bushings made up.
I don't know where the grinder originally came from, but there were remnants of what look like Mountain (not Western) Hemlock cones stuffed in the dovetail slide mechanism. That would be nowhere very close to here.
I was finally able to line up a truck and trailer to bring that grinder home from work. I had to get the loaderman to hoist it onto the trailer with a chain, but Dad and I were able to "walk" it off the back using a ramp board without too much difficulty.
I managed to coax the 066 into posing for the camera for a little perspective on size. It's wearing a 24/25" bar. It has a 24" wide table, and full-length travel, so I can grind up to a 24" long knife in theory. That would even cover the chipper knives from the mill! It would take quite a while to grind a set of those on one of these though; the automatic bed grinder at work does them in a flash and auto-balances them to boot.
Well, here's a sign of its true age. Not too many tools are running babbitt bearings anymore! The shaft is fairly scored from junk getting into the bearing grease, but the babbitt is still tight as a drum. I don't know how to re-pour them, but I do remember reading about it once. I think it might have been in one of my old (1970s) Fine Woodworking magazines. I suppose it would be possible to convert it to ball bearings, but you would have to build bearing mounts that bolt down to the existing bolt holes, and I don't know how it could be done without raising the arbor at least an inch or more. And it wouldn't look stock anymore either. I don't have a problem with the babbitt though; at least they're infinitely serviceable! I can get as much of the stuff as I'd ever need from work too.
After some lube and a bit of elbow grease, I managed to get pretty much everything freed up and moving. Both cross-slide mechanisms on the table are butter smooth, though rusted. The wheel for the table's vertical adjustment is a bit anemic at ~7" dia. though; there's no way I can get enough leverage on the knob to move the table with one hand. A nice 10"+ wheel would be nice; I'll keep my eyes open for something I can use. There are a few at work from the old molder/planer, though I don't think they're that big.
The stack of discs in the last pic came out of the dropoff bin at the scrap yard. The bevel stone on the main arbor also came from there; I don't know what they're worth but they're not cheap. It's identical to the ones we use to grind the big Chip-N-Saw square-base knives at the mill. Some of the discs are for a slightly larger arbor, so I guess I'll have to get a few bushings made up.
I don't know where the grinder originally came from, but there were remnants of what look like Mountain (not Western) Hemlock cones stuffed in the dovetail slide mechanism. That would be nowhere very close to here.
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T
Teddy.Scout
Guest
Brad that is a nice grinder!!!
I have a Yates 36" disk and 9.75" oscillating spindle sander! Gotta love that old iron!!!!
I have a Yates 36" disk and 9.75" oscillating spindle sander! Gotta love that old iron!!!!
I have babbitt!!!
Ferritted away!!
opcorn:!
Ferritted away!!
opcorn:!Brmorgan
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Walter grinder & mystery pliers
I picked this old Walter angle grinder in its original case out of a steel bin on Sunday:
Originally I thought it just looked like a neat steel case in the bin; turned out it was an intact set, with the handle, two guards, a few collets. I plugged it in and it spins like a top! It sounds so much better than modern angle grinders. I can't really explain it, but it just sounds smoother and not as sharp as the other ones I have.
I'm pretty sure it was used in a body shop or something, because it's caked with paint and what looks like fiberglass resin. Any ideas on cleaning the resin off? Paint I can figure out, but I've never dealt with that before. I'd like to get it cleaned up and usable, because it has a 5/16" NF arbor and I'm pretty sure I can find a small drill chuck to fit that, which would make for a really versatile tool. I already have a right-angle drill I built by doing the same thing with an old car polisher - it's useful but it's one (fairly slow) speed, one direction only unless I do some additional wiring work. It can get in some tight places though.
I also picked up this interesting tool:
It looks like it could be used for setting saw teeth - the "hammer" is angled opposite to the notch in the end and only comes out a set distance. Not sure what kind of saw though; maybe a brushsaw?
I picked this old Walter angle grinder in its original case out of a steel bin on Sunday:
Originally I thought it just looked like a neat steel case in the bin; turned out it was an intact set, with the handle, two guards, a few collets. I plugged it in and it spins like a top! It sounds so much better than modern angle grinders. I can't really explain it, but it just sounds smoother and not as sharp as the other ones I have.
I'm pretty sure it was used in a body shop or something, because it's caked with paint and what looks like fiberglass resin. Any ideas on cleaning the resin off? Paint I can figure out, but I've never dealt with that before. I'd like to get it cleaned up and usable, because it has a 5/16" NF arbor and I'm pretty sure I can find a small drill chuck to fit that, which would make for a really versatile tool. I already have a right-angle drill I built by doing the same thing with an old car polisher - it's useful but it's one (fairly slow) speed, one direction only unless I do some additional wiring work. It can get in some tight places though.
I also picked up this interesting tool:
It looks like it could be used for setting saw teeth - the "hammer" is angled opposite to the notch in the end and only comes out a set distance. Not sure what kind of saw though; maybe a brushsaw?
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Good usable stuff as usual Brad, the "set" may have been used for crosscuts as there were many designs of teeth used on the crosscut saws. My dad and his brothers used a lot of different designs of crosscut saw "sets". It looks like a larger version of the carpenters handsaw "set" that I use when handfiling.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
WesternSaw
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Brad Morgan Finds
Hey Brad,your turning into a very successful binner!At least that's what we call those fellas down here on the coast.You are heading for the recycler of the year award! Don't know anything about pouring babbitt except my wife's Dad was a millwright and he did lots of that.Sorry to tell you he has long since passed away and was very good at what he did.Anyway try www.smokstak.com for information on babbitt,I'm sure there will be something on there.
Those Walter grinders were know for their longevity, as I'm sure others will testify to.
If you want me to keep my eyes peeled for anything for your new finds let me know.
Lawrence
Hey Brad,your turning into a very successful binner!At least that's what we call those fellas down here on the coast.You are heading for the recycler of the year award! Don't know anything about pouring babbitt except my wife's Dad was a millwright and he did lots of that.Sorry to tell you he has long since passed away and was very good at what he did.Anyway try www.smokstak.com for information on babbitt,I'm sure there will be something on there.
Those Walter grinders were know for their longevity, as I'm sure others will testify to.
If you want me to keep my eyes peeled for anything for your new finds let me know.
Lawrence
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WesternSaw
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vincem77
ArboristSite Operative
Rotar is the main company and is from Taiwan. Think some of the big guys Mac/Snap-on buy some stuff from Rotar.
If you have a local dealer that offers the warranty on them and they are cheap, can't be too bad. If you are buying mail order or online I wouldn't mess around.
Was at Seven Corners Ace Hardware yesterday (http://www.7corners.com/). They had them in several lengths (approximately 3", 6", 12", etc.) starting at about $4 or $5. Standard hex fitting on the other end to fit a standard driver bit. If they have them, your local ACE hardware may also be able to special order them.
Philbert
jimdad07
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I was fighting a throttle linkage on a Mini-Mac 110 tonight I was putting back together:censored::censored::censored:, I was having a heck of a time. Got to thinking and grabbed my locking fish hook remover, worked like a champ, was even able to get the throttle trigger spring put back on with little fight. One more tool in the saw bucket.
WesternSaw
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jimdad07
Good news and way to find a dual purpose tool.Medical instruments work great for that kinda stuff as well,but expensive.They do however make some pretty strong plastic versions of hemostats.Anyway you made out just fine with the fish hook pliers
Lawrence
Good news and way to find a dual purpose tool.Medical instruments work great for that kinda stuff as well,but expensive.They do however make some pretty strong plastic versions of hemostats.Anyway you made out just fine with the fish hook pliers
Lawrence
Brmorgan
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Yes, Hemostats and their ilk are the best for small parts like that. I don't want to know how many little parts and screws I've lost to the floor gremlins by using regular needle-nose.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I just got two pair of 6" hemostats, one straight and one curved for 6.00 with free shipping on Ebay.
WesternSaw
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Toptul
I guess Toptul tools is tied in with this group as well.Anyone use them or have reports on them?
Thanks
Lawrence
I guess Toptul tools is tied in with this group as well.Anyone use them or have reports on them?
Thanks
Lawrence
Brian13
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I remember reading in this thread about kits for punching holes in gaskets, and I just saw another way on tv not long ago I though I would share. For a cheaper version of the kits they suggested shell casings. If you pop the primer out you can push the left over gasket material out. They recommended .45, .38, and one other size common for automotive use. Might be others better for chainsaws. Sounded like a good idea to me, I have quit a bit of used brass laying around.
WesternSaw
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Brian
Neat.Now be honest,you found that out all by yourself!
Thanks for the tip Brian
Lawrence
Neat.Now be honest,you found that out all by yourself!
Thanks for the tip Brian
Lawrence
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Brian13
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I wish I could claim that as my own idea. I saw it on the Muscle Car or Horsepower tv show. Dont remember witch.
Pouring babbit bearings is not so hard, it was at onetime done regularly around the sawmills here, must say I have run many hundred pounds of the stuff into bearing shells.
Pioneerguy600
WesternSaw
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Jerry
Lawrence
Of course I knew you would have had some experience doing that sort of thing Jerry.I fully expected you to be one of the fellas that would reply.You know what I saw at a garage sale awhile back a heavy duty ladle that I am sure was used for pouring babbitt,should have scooped it up for Brad.Did they not heat the babbitt in those and then pour from those things?
Lawrence
