promac850
formerly promac610
Well, guess we have more in common than I originally thought...
Be happy you don't have a pole barn... it'd be a mess. Trust me on this. I clean the damn thing twice a year and the mess keeps coming back...
Tool Forum
- Thread starter WesternSaw
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Well, guess we have more in common than I originally thought...
Be happy you don't have a pole barn... it'd be a mess. Trust me on this. I clean the damn thing twice a year and the mess keeps coming back...
It's funny how junk expands to fill the space available. I'm slowly starting to get rid of stuff that I haven't used for a long time if ever. Some stuff, I don't really need, but it's too good to throw out. Maybe it's time to start selling on ebay or CL. :hmm3grin2orange:
I made a little progress this weekend.
Any suggestions for placement of outlets? I'm thinking of putting a couple of outlets on the front legs or side so I don't have to run power cords across my work surface.
One of these days, I might actually be able to use it to work on my saws. :hmm3grin2orange:
Any suggestions for placement of outlets? I'm thinking of putting a couple of outlets on the front legs or side so I don't have to run power cords across my work surface.
One of these days, I might actually be able to use it to work on my saws. :hmm3grin2orange:
I have a row of outlets running along the wall directly behind my work surfaces. I used a number of 4-outlet boxes because I tend to leave a lot of things plugged in (task lights, radio, Dremel tool, shop-vac, small compressor, etc.), even if they are not on. I would not put them on your workbench legs, because you want to be able to move that.
Think about a shelf about a foot above your work surface to keep smaller items off of it (small cans, plastic bins, boxes, etc.), with a row of conduit and outlets, or a Wiremold type plug strip below that (I will try to post some photos of what I did, when I get it cleaned up a little). Or place 2 to 4, 4-outlet boxes on each side of your pegboard. You will not regret having too many outlets!
Also, think about a hanging cord reel above above your work surface so that you can plug in things without reaching across the work area, as you mentioned.
Philbert
promac850
formerly promac610
I made a little progress this weekend.
Any suggestions for placement of outlets? I'm thinking of putting a couple of outlets on the front legs or side so I don't have to run power cords across my work surface.
One of these days, I might actually be able to use it to work on my saws. :hmm3grin2orange:
Put them on the inside of the front legs, so that they outlets face each other. Like this...
That's how I'd do it. It'd be in the way of drawers... but if you decided to go that route, you can always move them to the outside of the legs, facing towards you, or away from each other on the ends.
Philbert's cord reel idea is even better...
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Pegboard Shelves
A lot of guys just hang tools on peg board. I copied an idea from a home improvement magazine that has been very helpful.
- Start with a piece of 1 X 4 inch wood, and rip/rout/plane/sand a 45 degree bevel off one of the long edges.
- Screw 2 or more 1/4 inch 'L' hooks into the edge, right at the base of the bevel, at the same distance as your pegboard hole spacing.
- Tip the board up, insert the hooks through the holes, and let it back down to create a shelf (adjust the hooks for a snug fit).
You can add small strips of wood, plastic, metal, etc. around the edges to keep things (small jars, boxes, etc.) from falling off.
You can also drill different sized holes through the wood to make custom holders for files, filing guides, screwdrivers, sharpening tools, etc., without having to buy a bunch of the wire ones and trying to make them fit. I have a bunch of these near my drill press: one just to hold spade bits, one to hold brad point bits, one to hold a twist drill index, etc. I can have 3 to 4 rows of bits on one piece of 1 X 4.
Another way to fasten special brackets to pegboard is to insert plastic screw anchors into the holes and mount things using small, pan head sheet metal screws. I made a small box for holding utility knives, for example, and screwed it to the pegboard. This is also a good way to mount something that you don't want to get knocked off (e.g. a radio) or things that you can mount using wire clamps.
Philbert.
A lot of guys just hang tools on peg board. I copied an idea from a home improvement magazine that has been very helpful.
- Start with a piece of 1 X 4 inch wood, and rip/rout/plane/sand a 45 degree bevel off one of the long edges.
- Screw 2 or more 1/4 inch 'L' hooks into the edge, right at the base of the bevel, at the same distance as your pegboard hole spacing.
- Tip the board up, insert the hooks through the holes, and let it back down to create a shelf (adjust the hooks for a snug fit).
You can add small strips of wood, plastic, metal, etc. around the edges to keep things (small jars, boxes, etc.) from falling off.
You can also drill different sized holes through the wood to make custom holders for files, filing guides, screwdrivers, sharpening tools, etc., without having to buy a bunch of the wire ones and trying to make them fit. I have a bunch of these near my drill press: one just to hold spade bits, one to hold brad point bits, one to hold a twist drill index, etc. I can have 3 to 4 rows of bits on one piece of 1 X 4.
Another way to fasten special brackets to pegboard is to insert plastic screw anchors into the holes and mount things using small, pan head sheet metal screws. I made a small box for holding utility knives, for example, and screwed it to the pegboard. This is also a good way to mount something that you don't want to get knocked off (e.g. a radio) or things that you can mount using wire clamps.
Philbert.
Idea for a cord reel on the cheap. I found an old vacumn cleaner out at the curb. Took it home and tore it apart, the reel mechanism came out in one piece, even had a sheet metal bracket on it. It's got at least 20' of cord, all I had to do was put a plug on one end. It's mounted over my bench now.
Cost about a buck fifty for the plug.
Cost about a buck fifty for the plug.
promac850
formerly promac610
Pegboard Shelves
OK - here is part of the article (PDF files), with nicer photos and illustrations. It also allows me to give proper credit to August Home Publications, the publisher.
They made a lot of fancy boxes ('L'- hooks screwed into top edges). I mostly made a lot of shelves for tools, bits, etc.
Philbert
OK - here is part of the article (PDF files), with nicer photos and illustrations. It also allows me to give proper credit to August Home Publications, the publisher.
They made a lot of fancy boxes ('L'- hooks screwed into top edges). I mostly made a lot of shelves for tools, bits, etc.
Philbert
I bought a couple of cord reels at NT and Sears - not too expensive, considering they also include the cord. Have one in the basement shop and one in the garage. They can handle more current that a vac cord for running power tools. Still use a heavier gauge extension cord for heavy tool use.
Also have a trouble light on a reel in the garage to keep it off of the floor. Don't have a reel for my air hoses - don't use them enough to justify that. Have the hoses and the extention cords coiled and hung on garden hose type hangers mounted to the wall.
Philbert
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Since the rule is pics or it didn't happen, here you go.
Nick
Warped5
WingNut
I bought a tool yesterday, not really chainsaw related, although I could use it for heated handle diagnosis....I got it for working on cars. It's a Snap-On Vantage Pro, which is a diagnostic oscilloscope.
Since the rule is pics or it didn't happen, here you go.
Nick
A buddy of mine just got one of those as part of a settlement with Snap-On over his tool box that is beginning to rust. Very nice! Big $$ for those!
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah, they are definitely not cheap, but I almost have to have one for diagnosing electrical issues on these late model cars that I work on.
I could have bought an MS660 Arctic and a 576AT for the same $$, but like I said, I'm at the point where I need one.
Nick
I could have bought an MS660 Arctic and a 576AT for the same $$, but like I said, I'm at the point where I need one.
Nick
WesternSaw
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nick,just a note
This thread is wide open to all kinds of tools not just chainsaw related! In fact there is more non related stuff on here and I think it prevents other threads from getting or going off topic.So go ahead and post up, Hand Tools,Power Tools,Diagnostic Tools you name it.
Lawrence
I bought a tool yesterday, not really chainsaw related, although I could use it for heated handle diagnosis....I got it for working on cars. It's a Snap-On Vantage Pro, which is a diagnostic oscilloscope.
Since the rule is pics or it didn't happen, here you go.
Nick
This thread is wide open to all kinds of tools not just chainsaw related! In fact there is more non related stuff on here and I think it prevents other threads from getting or going off topic.So go ahead and post up, Hand Tools,Power Tools,Diagnostic Tools you name it.
Lawrence
It finally snowed today. Took out the Toro snowblower. It started and the recoil rope broke on the second pull. Did the whole block without stalling out!
I generally like my Toro - starts pretty good, throws the snow if the rubber blades and scraper are kept up (replace every 2 years or so). Drive belt is easy to access. But replacing the starter cord is a royal P.I.T.A. Have to remove and replace 5 bolts and 7 screws to remove the housing and access the recoil. Only 4 screws on most chainsaws.
Philbert
I generally like my Toro - starts pretty good, throws the snow if the rubber blades and scraper are kept up (replace every 2 years or so). Drive belt is easy to access. But replacing the starter cord is a royal P.I.T.A. Have to remove and replace 5 bolts and 7 screws to remove the housing and access the recoil. Only 4 screws on most chainsaws.
Philbert
nick 55
ArboristSite Guru
Be glad its not Italian. You would have to pull the engine to do that job..... hell, you'd have to pull the engine to replace the spark plug too.
Nick
Nick
Check Amazon for bulk pull cord, I got 200' of good quality cord on a reel for $8.95 just before Christmas, I figure it will last two months as all the service I do for local landscapers go out of here with new cord every season to prevent downtime.
promac850
formerly promac610
As for those blades and scraper, we never replaced the ones on our Toro CCR2000... we just tilted it forward so the paddles would not only clean snow off of the driveway, but also propel the snowblower forward. Never stalled it that way either, lol. It leaves neat lines on the driveway too.
Still got the bugger, float bowl leaks though. Then bought another one at a flea market (it was CHEEP!) which runs fine, but has the float bowl leak as well...
Yes, I tried factory replacement float bowl gaskets, but they still leak. Going to find an o-ring that fits right and I bet that will fix it for good. Until the ethanol eats through it, that is.
Performance drops appreciably as the rubber blades wear. I replace them and it throws the snow into the neighbors' yards again.
Philbert
promac850
formerly promac610
Pops just used the money he saved on those rubber paddles and bought a two stage Snapper... he got the CCR for free years and years ago, before my brother was even born... it just needed a spark plug. Hasn't needed one since.
It's our backup in case the Snapper ever decides to take a poo...
Now we have two. Then my neighbor, just today, gave me an old two stage... needs a little work, but it will run.
