Top Lowering

[Yeahman]

Did some top lowering the other day on a large Euc, was a little bit windy. i probaly could've gone a meter or two higher. The section i had my spikes on was a bit bendy so i could only stand comfortablly on one side, when i felled the top out i was side on, not behind. i had a good groundie who let it run well but there was abit of movement and i got thrown off my spikes. I did have two points of attachement on and quickly regained my footing.

Had i been standing behind the direction of fall would i have come off my spikes? Any other pointers for top lowering?

Thanks

 

[Jim1NZ]

Cut your scarf at 70 degrees so it does not pull the top in the direction of fall as bad, dont forget wing cuts especially on spp prone to slabbing.

Yes always stand in opposite direction of fall so you can brace your self. Once top starts to fall, chain brake on, chainsaw off, secure it and brace your sale with both arms.

Secure laynard on D rings or hitch laynard off to D rings.

Use false crotch as double roping point.

Tye knots for snatch as close to the scarf as possible and make sure they are set real tight. Also use bully block rather than topping strop so rope runs smoother.

hmm thats all i can think of at the moment

 

[clearance]

Stomp your spurs in real hard first, wrap your lanyard around the spar, that will hold you in one spot.

 

[treebogan]

Longer Spurs perhaps?

I don't know what type of Gum you were up but longer spur's might have ment a bit more "bite"?As for always being on the opposite side of the direction of falling top,that depends on how big the top is,thus the size of the saw you are using.Topping out with a big saw you'd be on the side of the Top in order to make the back cut,having to hook the saw and reposition yourself at the back of the trunk whilst the top is tilting off the trunk would be more cause for trouble than bending your knees against the trunk and bracing with your arms.