Topping over a house - Video - Feedback requested on how to improve.

[cdobler]

I was doing a normal takedown on the weekend and normally I am able to drop the top without tying it in. This time I tied the top as I knew I would have problems directing it away from the house. Skip to the 40 second mark on the video and see the takedown. Everything went ok, but I was rocked around a bit when the top caught on the tied in rope. I was wondering if there would be any suggestions on how to improve this takedown?

Tree Falling N Van May 26 2012.wmv - YouTube

 

[Zale]

Tell your crew to put the beer down, go home, sober up and come back tomorrow and learn how to run ropes.

 

[beastmaster]

That wasn't even that bad really. If they had let it run some it would of been nothing. I hate working with an inexperienced crew if I am catching pieces like that. More then one climbers been killed because a piece wasn't allowed to run. While you might not get killed, its no fun when your really get servery wiped around like a coyote in a road runner cartoon because your crew don't know what their doing. It's all fun and games tell some one gets hurt. A piece falling then stopping suddenly also puts a lot of stress on the rope, lowing it WLL a lot.
I left a job I loved because the ground guys were idiots and I felt put my life in danger while doing big pine removals. It's no joking matter.
I have never used it, but I think I would be using some of that dyasorp(SP?) rope if I had to work with inexperienced beer drinking ground guys and was doing many drop and catches. Good luck.

PS could you of skid it?(zip line)

 

[no tree to big]

let it run!

did you just tie a length of rope to the top and tie the other end to the spar? just wondering cause at the end of the vid the top is still hanging...

porty with a block up top let that baby burn to the ground like this Tree Removal - Blocking down a spar - YouTube
but when your up on a skinny pole let it run a little further and slow it down a bit more gradual

fir top - YouTube

 

[superjunior]

yepper, block and porty with a guy on the ground who knows whats up = smooth sailing for the climber..

 

[cdobler]

That wasn't even that bad really. If they had let it run some it would of been nothing. I hate working with an inexperienced crew if I am catching pieces like that. More then one climbers been killed because a piece wasn't allowed to run. While you might not get killed, its no fun when your really get servery wiped around like a coyote in a road runner cartoon because your crew don't know what their doing. It's all fun and games tell some one gets hurt. A piece falling then stopping suddenly also puts a lot of stress on the rope, lowing it WLL a lot.
I left a job I loved because the ground guys were idiots and I felt put my life in danger while doing big pine removals. It's no joking matter.
I have never used it, but I think I would be using some of that dyasorp(SP?) rope if I had to work with inexperienced beer drinking ground guys and was doing many drop and catches. Good luck.

PS could you of skid it?(zip line)

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback!! For me I think I can eventually get the blocking done right, but I agree with the ground crew they need to be more attentive.

 

[benn]

hire a pro next time.

 

[murphy4trees]

get yourself the tree climbers companion by Jeff Jepson... shows you how to tie a block with cow or timber hitch. Line gets tied to top with clover hitch locked with 2 half hitches or a half hitch backed up with a running bowline.. Never cut one handed and push with the other... learn how to make a clean notch and back cut to control the movement of the piece. Drop the saw , then push with 2 hands if needed.. If you cut a narrow humboldt notch instead of an open face or traditional, there will be a lot less "pull", that is force to sway the top. As the narrow notch closes early, before the piece gets too much lean.. its all that lean, when it stops for a moment when the face closes and before the hinge breaks, that causes so much movement in the top.. Keep the block close to the cut, & use a line with a lot of stretch (ie Sampson's true blue).. These are things you can control as the climber. Most important factor is certainly how well the groundman lets the piece run, however, that is not necessarily something you can control.

You have no idea of the amount of force that can be built up when dropping large loads on a static line, which is basically what you did.. the force multipliers on that cut were big.. you got away with it because the piece was relatively light.. don't try that again... If there was some hidden defect in the trunk, that much force could cause the tree to fail easily!!! Learn all the above stuff as though your life depends on it, becasue it does!!!!

 

[lxt]

Yeah & then once you do what Murphy says to but cant, then you can start dropping trees in one shot onto roads, walls, dog boxes, sheds & other ornamentals prized by the home owner.

Hell, maybe you could borrow Murphs skid steer operator & just start up-rooting trees, LOL




LXT...........

 

[Scrat]

get yourself the tree climbers companion by Jeff Jepson... shows you how to tie a block with cow or timber hitch. Line gets tied to top with clover hitch locked with 2 half hitches or a half hitch backed up with a running bowline.. Never cut one handed and push with the other... learn how to make a clean notch and back cut to control the movement of the piece. Drop the saw , then push with 2 hands if needed.. If you cut a narrow humboldt notch instead of an open face or traditional, there will be a lot less "pull", that is force to sway the top. As the narrow notch closes early, before the piece gets too much lean.. its all that lean, when it stops for a moment when the face closes and before the hinge breaks, that causes so much movement in the top.. Keep the block close to the cut, & use a line with a lot of stretch (ie Sampson's true blue).. These are things you can control as the climber. Most important factor is certainly how well the groundman lets the piece run, however, that is not necessarily something you can control.

You have no idea of the amount of force that can be built up when dropping large loads on a static line, which is basically what you did.. the force multipliers on that cut were big.. you got away with it because the piece was relatively light.. don't try that again... If there was some hidden defect in the trunk, that much force could cause the tree to fail easily!!! Learn all the above stuff as though your life depends on it, becasue it does!!!!

X2- I agree with Morph's advice. and really if the groundies are not helpful and paying attention now, consider how useless they would be in an emergency if you were to get hurt up there......
be safe
Scrat

 

[murphy4trees]

he can't expect the groundies to know what they are doing, when he doesn't know himself.. This is a tough industry to be self taught in.. better to get a job with a good company and learn what you can there, before going it on your own. Seems like didn't even know that a piece could be lowered by a ground man.. Get the tree climber's companion.. watch my efficiency in removal video... Efficiency in Tree Removal Devon PA 19333.mov - YouTube

 

[Zale]

he can't expect the groundies to know what they are doing, when he doesn't know himself.. This is a tough industry to be self taught in.. better to get a job with a good company and learn what you can there, before going it on your own. Seems like didn't even know that a piece could be lowered by a ground man.. Get the tree climber's companion.. watch my efficiency in removal video... Efficiency in Tree Removal Devon PA 19333.mov - YouTube

Nothing like a shameless plug.

 

[lxt]

Efficient????? shameless plug indeed! Please Murph.....more videos & tutorials about tree work, your skills are just too good to not be filmed & broadcast, please show us more, we just cant get enough of your second rate antics & the laughter it brings us all is just too good.

show us the one where your skid steer operator darn near breaks the tree off during the cut...or, or the one where you canopy swipe every tree in the yard during a felling operation! Yep, maybe you should buy & read the climbers companion!!! sound advice you should use instead of give!



LXT..........

 

[NCTREE]

give it a ####ing rest already, you haven't showed us anything that proves you to be some tree hero. I want to see lxt's skills come on lets see! Untill then you should keep it zipped up cause your just a loud mouth think you know it all s.o.b. lxt can talk a big talk but he cant back it up! HUH worthless!

 

[pinemartin]

The use of a porta-wrap and letting the top run is good advice. The only thing I can add is you might want to try putting in a taller notch and leaving more hinge wood that way the top swings down more instead of jumping so far off to the side, this way you get more down force and less side force which means a little smoother ride.

 

[murphy4trees]

The use of a porta-wrap and letting the top run is good advice. The only thing I can add is you might want to try putting in a taller notch and leaving more hinge wood that way the top swings down more instead of jumping so far off to the side, this way you get more down force and less side force which means a little smoother ride.

By "taller" notch do you mean open face, that is wider... If so that is exactly wrong.. early separation is the way to reduce sway, meaning a narrow humboldt... once the piece starts moving, the more it goes, the more force it's going to put on the stem..

 

[limbwalker54]

Well now, I think I'm just going to go get some work done......
on

You guys have fun with this one.

 

[lxt]

give it a ####ing rest already, you haven't showed us anything that proves you to be some tree hero. I want to see lxt's skills come on lets see! Untill then you should keep it zipped up cause your just a loud mouth think you know it all s.o.b. lxt can talk a big talk but he cant back it up! HUH worthless!

well my lil eastern ball bag, I have posted plenty on here, Pics with all the trimmings............prolly before you even found the site! talk about a loud mouth nutpump, weres your pics big boy?, wheres your equipment? I posted showing my #### but havent seen any of yours.

So Ill zip it when you have half as much time in this trade as me, your resume in this trade would be laughable at best, do a search ass wad & you`ll find pics, etc... I dont feel the need to brag or think im a teacher to all, I posted & showed my salt to practice posting pics................Now how bout you #### bag.



LXT............

 

[lxt]

By "taller" notch do you mean open face, that is wider... If so that is exactly wrong.. early separation is the way to reduce sway, meaning a narrow humboldt... once the piece starts moving, the more it goes, the more force it's going to put on the stem..

Im not sure if I totally agree with this or not, I have actually "butt hung" very large chunks of the spar using snap cuts with a pull line, double pulley block & porta.... the strain was no more or less than when rigging down using the same method with any face notch type!

personally I think it really depends on the tree specie, I have always had ability to rig very large chunks of elm or gum as opposed to red oak or sycamore per say! just starting out its a good idea to take small chunks untill you`re comfy with all tree species and the reaction wood & forces of them.

LXT...........

 

[tree md]

The humor on this site is unbeatable... :hmm3grin2orange: