Trainee climber falls

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Jim1NZ

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Yesterday a trainee climber fell 14 foot, this not being a massive fall, although he still ended up smashing his ankle's, as he landed directly on his feet. I was not on sight when it happened, but was there not longer after to help stretcher him into an ambulance.

We peaced the scenario together and it turned out he lanyarded in for a change over, untied his climbing rope to throw up higher, lent back and fell. I believe he didn't lanyard in correctly, and also it was blamed on the snap clip he uses on his lanyard.

These snap clips on flip lines are dogy! Don't use them as they are basically only a single locking clip. Always look, listen and feel for a correct and safe change over!
 
Jim1NZ said:
We peaced the scenario together and it turned out he lanyarded in for a change over, untied his climbing rope to throw up higher, lent back and fell. I believe he didn't lanyard in correctly, and also it was blamed on the snap clip he uses

When I see a new climber laynard in to make a change over I tell them to test the laynard tie in before unclipping main line. Reason #1 is to make sure they are balanced to make a higher toss with a climbing line and #2 to make sure laynard is secure. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
 
At arbor camp they tried to get us all to have a short prussik and a carabiner on the lanyard in addition to the existing snap clip, a back up. That way with the above incident the guy would have been alright.

I don't do it though, but I visually check it every time I click in. These snaps can rollout of the D rings too if there's a lot of twisting going on, so check, check all the time.
 
Dadatwins said:
When I see a new climber laynard in to make a change over I tell them to test the laynard tie in before unclipping main line. Reason #1 is to make sure they are balanced to make a higher toss with a climbing line and #2 to make sure laynard is secure. Best wishes for a speedy recovery.

Exactly, this is what is taught and is what he should have done, put weight on the lanyard before untying his climbing line (second rope point).

Ekka, i was issued with a set up like that, a prussic loop adjustable lanyard, with triple locking carabinas on each end, but they are crap! Takes two hands to tighten the lanyard!

I use a knut with a micro pulley on the lanyard, so the lanyard is fully adjustable with one hand both in and out. Smooth :cool:
 
Watch those snap clips! I wouldn't trust them. You should really have triple locking carabinas...
 
Jim1NZ said:
Watch those snap clips! I wouldn't trust them. You should really have triple locking carabinas...

how can you say that? as long as it was a safety snap there is nothing wrong with it.
 
snap links

ANSI directly staes climbers must use the triple locking biners... i use the petzl twist lock that has the tiny gree button locking mech. hard to get used to and am not really sure if it meets ansi ...
 
darkstar said:
ANSI directly staes climbers must use the triple locking biners... i use the petzl twist lock that has the tiny gree button locking mech. hard to get used to and am not really sure if it meets ansi ...

Check the regs again my friend you are mistaken....

ANSI states carabiners must be positive locking, not triple locking.
This means 2 seperate operations to prepare the gate to open, so in total 3 motions all together.
The ball lock biners are ANSI compliant.

Regarding snaps, ANSI states they must be self closing and of the locking type with a 5k tensile strength.
Locking rope snaps are perfectly legal.
 
John Paul Sanborn said:
And you could argue that it does not apply to you, being an owner operator.

He could, but maybe he has an ass biting fetish :angel:
 
I love those locking snaps, stuff buggerizing around with one hand trying to open some BS biner when the heats on for a "get out the way" call etc.

Isn't it funny that in rock climbing they use those simple non locking alloy carabiners and take falls on them ... that's like standard. There's no rule that says it's gotta be double or triple lock there.

In this instance the guy was new/inexperienced. Probably didn't do the visual check or the lean back is it OK check before detaching from the lifeline.

JiM1NZ, I meant an extra carabina and back up on the non-adjustable side, rope snap + the back up so there would be 2 connections on that end of your lanyard. I use mechanical adjusters, one is a Moxham rope adjuster the other a Gibbs goldie. Both work real easy with one hand.
 
oh cool ..i mis read that ... im glad to hear my ball locks are ansi approved haha.. no seriously if an accident ever occurs i want all ducks in a row. 2 years ago i had to finish a job where a good climber fell . his really old school snap lock supposedly came un done .... terrible ... the new guy mentioned here umm i doubt he ever makes that mistake again ...
 
I support my weight on my secondary before I unhook the primary, that way if its caught on something I cant see I will know before I unhook the primary and at best smash my jewels on the tree.

Its important to know how normal things sound and feel and when they arent right. I can tell when the gate on my biner didnt rotate to a fully locked position, then a quick visual check is always important.

Once I nearly came outta a tree in a bad way. I was about 50' up setting a rope to pull a forked top out. I had my lanyard around the tree and was fixing to come down on my 8. I loosened my lanyard and had a firm grip on the tail, unhooked the lanyard and started leaning back. I realized something was wrong when I didnt feel my weight being put on the 8, looked down and the biner wasnt hooked to the saddle! Talk about a pucker factor.

Double check, its often the simple things we mess up on. Last cut syndrom is a huge issue that is easy to fight.
 
I used snap locking clips in forestry on high lifts, they are about a second faster than a carabina. I don't think thats what its about though, snap clips are double locking, but i found when tree climbing, that if your up against something the first locking mechanism is easily pushed in and all it takes is a stick to hit the gate and open it. But what are the chances?

The snap clips are not banned in NZ, but are 'frowned upon'

I bet there are count less people who climb on single locking carabinas or simply free climb and are still alive. Hel i know one guy that climbed on a 5lb carabina, the outcome when he fell was not so good though.

Il stick to my triple locking system, besides you cant competition climb with snap lock clips.
 
Lumberjack said:
Double check, its often the simple things we mess up on. Last cut syndrom is a huge issue that is easy to fight.

I agree, its more about the double checking thats gona save you
 
Jim1NZ said:
besides you cant competition climb with snap lock clips.

You can here if they're on your lanyard.

Here's a pic of the back up idea.

attachment.php
 
Jim1NZ said:
besides you cant competition climb with snap lock clips.


ummm, chech the rule book.....

from the 2005 ITCC rule and regs
rule number 2.2.8-All rope snaps shall be of the self closing, locking type.
 

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