tree guying

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I disagree. Light pruning will have no (no) effect on stability. I see a canopy w out that fat lead. The priority here seems to be keeping the tree and then hopefully the canopy will regenerate for shade. Decay may be minimal if natural target pruning cut is made. Guying seems silly on a tree this size unless you are going to run a pier out of the water. The 2x4 described as a prop is not a prop at all IMO. The tree is in the process of going over and the small piece of lumber is imbedded in the tree. Like just said by Justice, I would CYA (cover your a s) if you even poleclip a twig on that tree in your contract.

My plan is to prop the tree with some pretty big timbers. Wouldnt light pruning all along the heavy side equal up to one big leader? In terms of wieght, alot of small branches add up quickly. I plan on starting the job later next week if he accepts the proposal, I will post some pics
 
Good luck w whatever you decide. I d wait for a hot day then jump in at lunch and after work ask if ok to drown a few worms.
 
Wouldnt light pruning all along the heavy side equal up to one big leader? In terms of wieght, alot of small branches add up quickly.
Yes, it is not about weight but about load and leverage. 10% off the ends makes a HUGE difference in a vertical tree; read the TreeStatics info. On this leaner, shorten the sprawl and you lessen the strain.

Natural Targets are wonderful, but a big wound is not going to close on a tree that age, period. That big lead does not have much of a collar anyway. Many samll cuts is the better way to go; no offense treevet.
 
Yes, it is not about weight but about load and leverage. 10% off the ends makes a HUGE difference in a vertical tree; read the TreeStatics info. On this leaner, shorten the sprawl and you lessen the strain.

Natural Targets are wonderful, but a big wound is not going to close on a tree that age, period. That big lead does not have much of a collar anyway. Many samll cuts is the better way to go; no offense treevet.

None taken at all Treeseer. Just don t agree. We ll agree again on something in the near future I bet.
 
Rellooked at the pictures. Taking out the fat leader would solve the lean and it would leave a pretty symmetrical tree. the wound would never seal but white oak is so slow to rot maybe that's not a deal breaker.

Could be done either way, smaller cuts or one big one, depending on how much load can be propped. Let us know how it goes ok kenner?
 
well the crack could indicate a problem, seeing as they actually don't heal they compartmentalize. It may be an indication of interior rot. Shigo has a great book "A New Tree Biology" that goes in depth on tree wounding and interior rot.
As far as trimming out the "large lead" I am not certain which one is being spoken of. If it is more than 25% of the leaf surface then you are certain to send the tree into major stress and decline.

Interesting problem! One that makes doing tree work interesting because it keeps us thinking, and learning hopefully...lol. :deadhorse:

Take some pictures of your solution please, looks like a fun job. Again I would be VERY specific in writing that there is no guarantee AT ALL. Too often we are trying to do the right thing and shafted for it so be careful.
 
These are the kind of jobs I love to get, the kind no one else will even put a price on except to remove it. I will be sure to get pics and we post them next week. Thanks for all the input everyone, it gave me alot of ideas and things to think on.
 
guying the tree...what is that...unfamilar term to me...can explain on what that is

Guying is securing a tree or branch with steel or sythetic cables fastened to anhcors in the ground or another tree. Its very similar to the way a utility pole is guyed.
 
OOh

ok got it

thank you...

i thought that just fell under the term of hard rigging..
but thanks for the new vocabulary
 
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