Trying Out The VT !!!

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rahtreelimbs

A.K.A Rotten Tree Limbs
. AS Supporting Member.
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Amoungst My Saws........Fool That Has Too Many!!!
OK, today I gave the VT a try. I was on my way down out of a maple tree. I stopped and tied a VT just for the he!! of it. This hitch releases real nice. I used 4 up and 2 braids. I know that this hitch is real sensitive as far as cord length and cord thickness. The only question I have is this. Has anyone had the top wraps not grab and the hitch start to slide instead of grabbing?
 
Myself been working with half hitch base ring finish,
like Knut for self /non hardware tending,
as hinted at by Murphy4Trees
on both climbing and lanyard friction hitches,
Tying directly to D for lanyard,
as suggested by Mark Chisolm,
Running the tail for lanyard through D,
for even more positive tending,
per Brian.

Only have had slight 'creep' if front D/karab;
bumps lanyard's friction hitch, when both loaded/taut,
keeping fresh cords on climbing hitch.

Presently have a 'used' chord on lanyard;
lower,slower, shorter friction point.

:alien:
 
Rich- the vt is length sensitive like you said. Some cords do not function well on certain types of rope. I feel that you could get it to grab by reducing the length. Use very small increments until you find your sweet spot. I changed over to a fisherman’s knot from eye splices because of a tip from JPS. It allows you to work with the length easier and keeps everything from sliding down the side of the biner. Once you get it right you will not go back to the distal. Most times my rope will feed it self through the vt as I climb up but will grab the instant I apply weight to it. I have used all combinations of wrap/braids and the 4 & 3 works the best for me when I use 5/16” cord.
 
I've been using 3:3, but have been trying 4:2 a little just for more to grab on the down swing, so i dont heat my pointer finger all the time.

The biggest thing to watch with high-responce hitches is body contact with the top coil. Many may remember me telling of the little scare I had last year when I leaded into my line and the hitch did not autoset.

Someone used to the older hitches, or even Distle/Schabisch may not be used to setting checking the hitch all the time.

I used a Blakes the other day to get up a leaner while double crotching. Oldstyle, two half hitches on the center D-ring, and a tail.


I kept foprgetting to advance the hitch all the time. WIth the VT I can pull a bunch of rope then advance the hitch one hand, holding myself up with the other

I was cursin and spittin all the way up that stem. I ended up going back down and pulling out a 4 foot tail.

I gotta get another pully so i can keep a spare tres assembly on my rig. Maybey steal it foem my friction saver?
 
You are on the right track now. The biggest thing I noticed is that the vt, mt, xt are not as turnkey as a distel. The distel can be tied at any length and it works. My distal cords ranged from 48" eye to eye to 23" eye to eye. They all worked good and bit just as needed.

The vt is a superior hitch. It just takes an investment of your time to get used to is and find your sweet spot. The 4/3 that Tim recommended is good. So is a 4/2 xt
 
i once again affirm, that especially without cross refrencing to other sites; and that this is the place, with thee body of knowledge; that should have for the world to refrence each of these lacings (as well as other things)to definition and proper speling!

Though many here i imagine owe thanx and comradre to ol'DoctorX; and it would be hard to rival what he has been generously giving away in polished form for many years of just such!

Where is thee X(ian)Man that gave us a cut above understandings of these?

:Eye:
 
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To be more specific. I'm using 8mm ( 5/16 ) New England Sta-Set that Brian turned me onto. I'm using 12 strand New England Tree line, soon to be replaced by 16 strand Safety Blue. The Distal cord was made starting with 42", using double fisherman knots. With this I was able to get . This setup seemed to work just fine. I'll probably have to go longer to realize it's full potential. Though the VT is considered a hi-perf hitch I think my climbing skills are good enough ( not to mention my curiousity ) to try this hitch!

Are 4 wraps and one braid considered a VT?

Also does the hitch react differently between 12 and 16 strand host ropes?
 
Since 16 strand is rounder, you may feel a differance.

IMO it is the climbers comfort level with knots that is the usual inhibitor to taking this step.

Here is another prmutation, using a fixed sheave pulley and tying one end of the cord to the carabiner and the other to the becket of the pulley.

I know people who like it, not on my top 10 list though.
 
JPS, I have seen the permutation you talk about too.
It was used with a petzl fixe pulley.
Two questions:

What is really the benefits of this? Is it to get less stuff on
the carabiner? To not loose the pulley?

Is it really ok? I think not, the fixe is rated 22 kN when loaded
over the bearing, not the end. It has no rating for such use.

And Rich, I use the 3 over 3 VT, switched from the Distel a month
ago or so.
I have never had it slide. It is 22 inch from eye to eye (dbl fishermans) made with Roblon, Admiral racing, a 32-braided polyester cover with a dyneema/spectra core, a pretty soft cord.
My climbing line is a safety blue.
I experimented, on ground, with longer cords and they sometimes
did not grab.
Tie your cords short, dress the hitch regularly (equal spacing
between the crossovers) and you should be ok.
 

What is really the benefits of this?

Is it to get less stuff on the carabiner?


Yes


To not loose the pulley?

And yes



I cannot say as to the safety of the rig, but I know a number of guys who climb on it. All at a competative level, well then there is Ox...
 
Made up some cords tonight. twenty-two inches eye-to-eye was not long enough. The 3 up- 3 wraps VT had as much drag as the 4 up 1 down Distel. I lengthened the cords 6" That made all the difference. Went to 4 up 3 braid. I was experimenting in my basement. We will see how it really works next tree I do!
 
Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
Thanks for bringing up this topic again, Rich.

Good to hear your response on this thread. I've been wondering how the Distel was working for you. You are experiencing the same problems that I have.


I finally got a chance to really give the VT a try yesterday. I worked real low with it. I tried body thrusting and footlocking ( I footlock the tail of my rope ) both worked real good! I got a much better response tying 3 wraps and 3 braids. Does the VT have to be tied with 4 wraps? Anyway, 3 wraps and 3 braids worked even better, the hitch autoset itself every time, grabbed and released real smooth too. Slack tending was easy also. Seems I'm on my way, just a little fine tuning!
 
Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel


But I'm having more and more problems with the Distel binding up on me. The only explanation I can think of is that my lifelines are dirty and the dirt causes the Distel to grab more. With a new rope the Distel works perfect, but we all cannot use a brand new rope every day.


Did you drop a wrap to experament? I think it is the fuzzing of the worn rope, not the dirt.

your saw on a limb so you can walk out a skinny lead without it.

I already have the long saw lanyard for that. I got so many pullies right now <g>.


Speaking of pulleis; Nick, you get aanywhere on that pulley kit?
 
yep, almost done

JPS- I got the case made...it was quick. It can hold 4 pullies. I am trying to figure out a way to easily make it hold 8. It looks pretty sharp!

love
nick
 
Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
And what makes you believe that I do not use a friction saver? I do not object to your advice, only the tone in which it is offered. You stroll in here once a month offering sometimes questionable advice and stating it as if your word was quoted from scripture. You have not earned my respect enough for me to consider your advice.

Note taken. Show me the questionable advice.

Joe
 

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