Yes that’s on deal too, even cheaper at $12.
I have very little experience of either, but I find the activ smokes a bit less. Maybe because it’s thinner?
Two stroke fuel ratios
- Thread starter Eraser
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I have very little experience of either, but I find the activ smokes a bit less. Maybe because it’s thinner?
We have Castrol 2T available here only FB rated & $14 a quart so sorry no go . Used Castrol 2 cycle oils back in the day for dirt bike usage . It was decent , but many better FC & FD oils today at that price or less .
That’s fair enough!
Castrol make great oil, but their bottles suck, the always leak down the back lol.
I brought a bunch of these measuring type containers a while ago - good to put them to use.
I brought a bunch of these measuring type containers a while ago - good to put them to use.
Husky77
ArboristSite Operative
I had an old seagull 2 stroke outboard boat engine that the manual said 16-1 motor oil, that was back in the day before lots of brands of 2t oil came out. it would leave an oil slick on the water very environmentally friendly but thats what they were back then. Easy to start, smoked but never failed, them old seagull engines are still around. makes you wonder these days if its more about emissions than engine protection, whatever the jaso rating
There you have. Someone that makes sense. Most saw|engine manufacturers have their own in house branded oil and would love to sell more by getting that gas
il ratio to have more oil. More oil is more heat period. Get an infrared thermometer and see for yourself. Heat kills tight tolerances and moving parts.
I had a multi burn 2 1|2 ton military truck that I would run on old motor oil. Made good power with it but my exhaust has temperatures would get way up.
Oil burns hot.
What I find crazy is the Evinrude E-tec outboard boat engines. Anyone chiming in on this thread would sh#t themselves if they knew how little 2cycle oil those engines need. Under a constant load at wide open throttle to boot. 1000s of hours on many of them here at 100:1
Yep , my brother inlaw has one . Fills the oil reservior once a year lol.
He better take care of it, won't be getting another.
The oil is injected where it’s needed, not just mixed with the gas where the oil droplets can land wherever they may
None of it actually makes sense. Saw carbs have adjustable jets for a reason. If they’re running hot, it’s lean and needs to be richened.There you have. Someone that makes sense. Most saw|engine manufacturers have their own in house branded oil and would love to sell more by getting that gas
More oil is more heat period. Get an infrared thermometer and see for yourself. Heat kills tight tolerances and moving parts.
I had a multi burn 2 1|2 ton military truck that I would run on old motor oil. Made good power with it but my exhaust has temperatures would get way up.
Oil burns hot.
Go put 1000 hours on a 562 (or any strato charged Husky) with average o p e oil at 50:1. It’ll cost you 3 sets of bearings.
There is a lot wrong with that...There you have. Someone that makes sense. Most saw|engine manufacturers have their own in house branded oil and would love to sell more by getting that gas
More oil is more heat period. Get an infrared thermometer and see for yourself. Heat kills tight tolerances and moving parts.
I had a multi burn 2 1|2 ton military truck that I would run on old motor oil. Made good power with it but my exhaust has temperatures would get way up.
Oil burns hot.
For starters oil has a higher heat of evaporation than gasoline. It then stands to reason that it would take more heat out of an engine to combust it as vapors burn and liquids dont?
The reason engines run slightly hotter is because they make slightly more power with more oil.
As for Daggers comment on tolerances. Yes, tighter tolerances do leave less room from oil. However the tolerances on a air cooled chainsaw are pretty sloppy. Second, running more oil is about replenishing the oil that is combusted or expelled from the motor. The higher the rpm and load the more oil you need and make no mistake saws run at very high rpms. Thirdly, running more oil is about protection from corrosion via residual oil and protection of the rotating assembly at sustained high rpm and load. You can argue this last point, but studies have been done using oil doped with radioactive dye to measure migration time and it is as I have stated.
One last comment. Prior to strato charging bearing failures in low hour saws where much more rare than they are now. Which makes sense given that there is much less oil moving through a strato engine.
At the end of the day run what you want, but these are the facts.
Also keep in mind that most dealers setup saws pig rich and most guys can't tune a saw to save their lives. Running a saw pig rich pushes much more oil through a motor than a small change in ratio. A large swing in temperature does the same. How many of you guys stressing about running a little more oil through your saw are also tuning daily? How many of the same even know how to tune a saw properly are what a proper state of tune even is?
And their is no fuel in the bottom end.
Also they run at 100:1 only with the reprogram for running Evinrude XD100 oil.
They also have a storage feature in the computer which floods the motor with oil for storage.
I will one up. None of it is actually true.
And Dagger for a engine development guy doesn't understand the basics..
I see about zero reason to run a FB oil when much better choices are available at reasonable prices. In fact IMO its stupid.
bobsbigsaw
ArboristSite Lurker
50/1 is recommended, as long as you rev the pi** out of it, it will live just fine with synthetics.
Serious question... has there ever been a highly controlled experiment in a 'lab' environment to demonstrate whether using more oil actually creates a more 'lean' running condition? Which I'd expect to show up with an oxygen sensor in the exhaust, and also measuring engine temps, and RPMs? I'm not an engineer or scientist, just a homegrown mechanic and tinkerer.
Like was mentioned already, a better ring seal from extra oil will also make more power, so it could be difficult to prove either way?
I'm one of the weird tinfoil-hat holdouts that refuses to believe more oil leans the air / fuel ratio, but I don't get into arguments about it. It just seems based on speculation and theory without real-world evidence.
But.... I'd love to actually see the results of a controlled test!
Like was mentioned already, a better ring seal from extra oil will also make more power, so it could be difficult to prove either way?
I'm one of the weird tinfoil-hat holdouts that refuses to believe more oil leans the air / fuel ratio, but I don't get into arguments about it. It just seems based on speculation and theory without real-world evidence.
But.... I'd love to actually see the results of a controlled test!
Adding more oil only leans out your air to fuel ratio if you don't alter carb tuning parameters. The effect is rather snall.
No need for any test on this.
The load put on the engine and the air temperature both have more affect than changing between any of the ratios we commonly
use. With a carb set with a crisp tune, changes in temps and load on the engine may require you to tweak it throughout the day if you really want the most from the engine.
use. With a carb set with a crisp tune, changes in temps and load on the engine may require you to tweak it throughout the day if you really want the most from the engine.
A change in humidity can also effect tune
