Two-Stroke Oils: All the Same?

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If your spewing oil like that you were tuned too rich.
Yeah okay. Dude it was four-stroking way up high at the end of 15ft cuts. I never set it much past 12k cold and that sounds pig fat on ported 660. You mill big hardwood much? The saw gets stupid hot 350* in the oil tank. I'm no where near rich at the end of those cuts. This saw moves a lot of air 14 minutes a tank running the 83 intake time. It burns fuel and spilts oil. The temps outdoors have a lot to do with running big filters and V stack. It has runs 50-1 and still won't warm up tuned to 14 on cold days with top quality oil mixed in it. I also have added cooling on the far side of the head now. At 55-1 in 40ish wet weather the muffler is wet inside. The bigger saw does the same thing tuned between 11.5-13ish. 13 is a lot for a big saw. I keep it near 12 most times. 1122 tunes to 14 then it's gone. Not looking to find out on the big one. 034 tunes up near 15 before its gone. Still reves to 16. Oil or piston issues has never been a problem running high quality oils. Go watch TM new videos of work saws running good oil. He's not guessing or using a guestometer lol. We check stuff numbers don't lie.
 
Yeah okay. Dude it was four-stroking way up high at the end of 15ft cuts. I never set it much past 12k cold and that sounds pig fat on ported 660. You mill big hardwood much? The saw gets stupid hot 350* in the oil tank. I'm no where near rich at the end of those cuts. This saw moves a lot of air 14 minutes a tank running the 83 intake time. It burns fuel and spilts oil. The temps outdoors have a lot to do with running big filters and V stack. It has runs 50-1 and still won't warm up tuned to 14 on cold days with top quality oil mixed in it. I also have added cooling on the far side of the head now. At 55-1 in 40ish wet weather the muffler is wet inside. The bigger saw does the same thing tuned between 11.5-13ish. 13 is a lot for a big saw. I keep it near 12 most times. 1122 tunes to 14 then it's gone. Not looking to find out on the big one. 034 tunes up near 15 before its gone. Still reves to 16. Oil or piston issues has never been a problem running high quality oils. Go watch TM new videos of work saws running good oil. He's not guessing or using a guestometer lol. We check stuff numbers don't lie.
I'm not guessing.. if your spewing unburnt oil out the exhaust you are rich.
Schaeffers 7000 is an ashless Marine oil. I ran some through a lawnboy mower which calls for ashless Marine oil and I wasnt very impressed. I would absolutely not run it in a saw. And this is not meant to disparage Tree Monkey in any way.
The following text is right from Schaeffers web page for 7000. "Not recommended for use in those 2-cycle engines that employ the use of rotary valves or power-valves or 2-cycle engines (*air cooled) that specify API TC, JASO FA, JASO FB, JASO FC, ISO-L-EGB, ISO -L-EGD, ISO-L-EGC and TISI quality 2-cycle oils."
So if you want to use an oil that oil company says you shouldn't and the saw mfg says you shouldn't have at it. You've been lead to water.
 
Yes......But general repairs (crank....piston....cylinder)were also very frequent because of this!
Yes, they were. I just read on another thread here were old timers were lucky to get a year out a saw falling. And they were using alot more oil. Like more than double. Not to.mention lower rpms and heat.
 
I still use castor oil. 40:1, my current flavor is Blendsall. Castor actually adds BTUs.
Saws run great, no issues and smells great.
I run Avgas when i can't get ethanol free. When i can get free avgas i run it in my motorcycle too.

I shoot lots of game with gilding metal jacketed bullets. I eat the meat without concern. I don't like the way solid copper bullets kill ( slowly).
Den
 
I'm not guessing.. if your spewing unburnt oil out the exhaust you are rich.
Schaeffers 7000 is an ashless Marine oil. I ran some through a lawnboy mower which calls for ashless Marine oil and I wasnt very impressed. I would absolutely not run it in a saw. And this is not meant to disparage Tree Monkey in any way.
The following text is right from Schaeffers web page for 7000. "Not recommended for use in those 2-cycle engines that employ the use of rotary valves or power-valves or 2-cycle engines (*air cooled) that specify API TC, JASO FA, JASO FB, JASO FC, ISO-L-EGB, ISO -L-EGD, ISO-L-EGC and TISI quality 2-cycle oils."
So if you want to use an oil that oil company says you shouldn't and the saw mfg says you shouldn't have at it. You've been lead to water.
Dude your missing the point and I'm not thirsty for your knowledge. Many things were never meant to be or not recommended or tested for an application yet perform far better then the stock junk they shell out all "rated" but in reality your always right oh great one. Does it feel better now?
😆

Ratings are bought to impress people nothing more. They already decide what is marketable before it's tested and approved for this or that. Do you want to split a case of the wrong oil for your saw or not?
😆
I'll send you some silver bottles for Christmas next year 😆
 
Dude your missing the point and I'm not thirsty for your knowledge. Many things were never meant to be or not recommended or tested for an application yet perform far better then the stock junk they shell out all "rated" but in reality your always right oh great one. Does it feel better now?
😆

Ratings are bought to impress people nothing more. They already decide what is marketable before it's tested and approved for this or that. Do you want to split a case of the wrong oil for your saw or not?
😆
I'll send you some silver bottles for Christmas next year 😆
All conspiracy theories aside..
A guy that can't tune a saw now wants to make judgements on the efficacy of using an oil which neither the maker or the saw company recommends. I bet you are really on to something...NOT!
 
I understand the desire to run at more than 50:1. More oil in moving parts has historically always been a better answer. But time moves on. Oils improve. If Stihl thought their chainsaws needed that, why wouldn't they recommend a richer mix and offer an oil for the richer mix? I'm not talking about ported saws or anything custom. I'm talking about a stock saw. Clearly they don't think it's necessary. And I've seen zero evidence that it is. I've looked for it. It's not out there. If someone can point me to a higher risk of carbon and mechanical failures with Stihl Ultra at 50:1, I seriously want to see it. I want to know.
I’ve personally had 2 stihl saws fail wile using 50:1 ultra and over 6 solenoid failures on the electronic carb I can’t say it was the oil that did it but I’m not a fan of there fuel filters me and my father in-law stopped using ultra and I never had a problem again started using red armor at 50:1 maybe a tiny bit more and my saws started shedding carbon build up and brown streaks on the pistons disappeared it’s just a personal opinion but ultra is garbage oil.
 
The recommended mix ratio was designed with the intent of helping you….help you not need to know anything about it…..also let you get away with your predictable common mistakes you make….and so you don’t have too bad of an experience using their product…but you wanna know about fuel mix…..you will come to a dang close conclusion after your research to the recommended…..did anyone realize what’s not a recommended product on the new still 400? And do you know why…..I doubt they made a website error and forgot
 
Yes, they were. I just read on another thread here were old timers were lucky to get a year out a saw falling. And they were using alot more oil. Like more than double. Not to.mention lower rpms and heat.
I wonder how much the huge amounts of carbon from burning motor oil at 16:1 would contribute to those frequent rebuilds?
Versus for example, inadequate lubrication for the rings and bearings.
Heat was probably a big factor and maybe insane exhaust temps burning all that oil.
 
The only reason things were changed from 32:1 to 50:1 was EPA regs not because it was better for the engines.
I SUSPECT there was ALSO IMPROVEMENTS IN OILS; I have seen OWNER TESTING w/ new pistons/rings at 25:1, 50:1, 100:1; where 25:1 gave heavier carbon, and 100:1 gave slight scoring, (retuned to each mix)... maybe not scientific testing PROOF for the masses, but impressive to me after 10+yrs using 50:1 without issue.
 
I can't find where someone mentioned Husky XP oil but I can attest that it's good oil. I personally observed Husky saws from 332's to a 3120 logging thousands of hours at 50:1 Husky XP oil being abused and worked to death on that oil and never saw a bottom end or even a top end failure. And with 87 octane gas.
I'd use Husky oil without a second thought.
 
I SUSPECT there was ALSO IMPROVEMENTS IN OILS; I have seen OWNER TESTING w/ new pistons/rings at 25:1, 50:1, 100:1; where 25:1 gave heavier carbon, and 100:1 gave slight scoring, (retuned to each mix)... maybe not scientific testing PROOF for the masses, but impressive to me after 10+yrs using 50:1 without issue.
I'm sure there has been improvements but I don't think that had anything to do with the change. If they recommend it at 32:1 they would sell more oil and make more money.

More oil is better on the engine and produces more power. I can't remember who did the study maybe dupont but 16:1 makes the most power and I believe 32:1 was the sweet spot for power, lube, and smoke.
 
I was asked one time to redesign a motor in a household appliance so that its useful life was half of the present life.
Manufacturers want the thing to last past the warranty and then some but not a lot more. There are exceptions. Some products
sell at a premium because of the perceived longevity so this kinda thing doesn't happen. Ex is probably Stihl pro saws.
If you make a product perfect…you will fail. Ex technics turn tables.. ands still pro saws is just a category of engines cc ranges. Only the 500i and 400ms have different parts…wait correction pro means full wrap handle lololol
 

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