Using an in tree saw on the ground?

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Have a top handle Stihl 015 we use as a shop saw all the time to cut stuff that's too long to fit in the stove... boards, branches, etc.
Aside from it wanting to sort of run or not, depending on its mood it's a great saw for that type of work. Certainly safer than trying to balance a 460 with one hand!
 
Hate to say it, as much as I hate the things, but a bar nose guard would not be a bad idea if he insists on using in the manner described. I would also go with the shortest bar possible either way.
 
We still don't know what his Dad is really cutting. Length? Diameter? Piles? Type of wood? Live? Dead? etc.

If he is currently using a circular/Skill saw, he has electricity, which is why I mentioned the Alligator Loppers. He could also use an electric chainsaw, if he has the brush in some type of holder/sawbuck. Some ideas here: http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...all-diameter-bent-wood-and-lots-of-it.186935/

For smaller stuff, this is what I use:

Screen shot 2015-03-03 at 11.44.57 AM.png

Philbert
 
OK sorry for the delay and I'm on my phone so I'm not going to quote.

I want to try a 20" narrow kerf on my MS250 for me instead of the .325 I'll make another thread for that.

Brush. Sorry what I meant since you guys are wood experts is: branches that range from 2" down to say 1/2". He is cutting this up for kindling into 16" lengths. Waste not.

I have to admit his method is pretty efficient although its stupid.

I don't think a one handed saw is the right idea for this. But I am thinking about getting him one for his firewood retrieval in the woods.

I
 
I wouldn't even try a 20" on a 250 narrow kerf or not. I think a 18 is a bit too much for them. The oiler will not be able to keep up with a 20". Unless you ask piltz I'm sure he'd disagree haha
 
I use most stuff over about an inch in diameter for kindling in my fireplace insert.

I use a compound action, anvil type, lopping shears (similar to photo above) for most stuff up to 2 inches diameter if it is green. Smaller stuff if it is dead/dry. Much faster than a saw.

Philbert
 
Didn't read the whole thread. He is using a corded circular saw now? If so, I'd recommend a Jawsaw. They work great! I know they look hokey in the TV ads, but just try one, you'll see. The best ever for cutting up a brush pile if you can reach it with a cord. I understand they have a battery saw now, but never used one.
 
If you are thinking about a top handle for more general saw use, then standard advice applies. Choose a rear handle saw. They are much safer and nicer to use, and there are rear handle versions of the better top handle saws if a really light screamer is what you want (and you are happy to pay the premium).

Basically in the small saw sizes there are the good 50cc saws at 11ish lbs, the 45cc pro stuff at 10ish lbs, the rear handle versions of the arborist saws at 9ish lbs and for a cheap/light option a husky 435 is 9 1/2lbs. I think a stihl 150 is 7lbs or similar, it's also made as a rear handle, but I've never seen one. All weights dry power head only - no bar, chain, fluids.
Most people think there isn't enough weight saving for the power you lose when you go for less than (for instance) the husky 550, but if there is a specific need then the other choices will work and work well.
 
I've had my 192T for awhile now. I pick it up
first once the tree is on the ground. Ill use it to cut the tops out. I've never once had kickback that was severe.
 
For those really small limbs I like the way he's already doing it. The saw is designed to use with one hand... For limbs a bit bigger I use my 346xp and a pole saw on the short setting. The pole saw is amazingly handy cutting into bushes and brush, no bending over or getting scratched up.
 
I just "bucked" an entire dump trailer load of 6" dia 10' long logs with a 200t, using one hand. Apparently I should have died while doing this but I managed to beat the odds.

All joking aside, I love a good top handle saw. My property is over run with small 4"- 8" diameter trees, lots of brush, scrub, blow downs etc. Much of it would be left to rot but I load the "logs" in to the dump trailer by hand (they only weigh 50lbs or so)and take the load to the wood pile. I hold the piece I'm cutting off with one hand, run the saw with the other. This way you just toss it straight on the pile and pull the log off the trailer a little more and repeat. it saves a ton of bending over and eliminates a lot of handling. Overall it is quicker for me to do it this way when i'm working alone. But I shouldnt do that either huh?

If I were in your shoes, I'd go for a 150t or 192t and let the man work. Just because your uncle's cousin's nephew heard his buddy's dad got hurt with one does not make it wrong to do it. Lots of people get in car accidents everyday but I doubt any of you guys will be walking to work tomorrow.
 
Just because your uncle's cousin's nephew heard his buddy's dad got hurt with one does not make it wrong to do it. Lots of people get in car accidents everyday but I doubt any of you guys will be walking to work tomorrow.
Some photos of 'your uncle's cousin's nephew' buddy's dad' http://www.bchw.org/Tech tips/SawCertification/Chain Saw Injuries.htm

Most of those guys probably did not expect to get hurt either - might have used saws for many, many years without getting hurt.

"• According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, there were more than 28,500 chainsaw injuries in 1999. More than 36 percent were injuries to the legs and knees.
• Approximately 40 percent of all chainsaw accidents occur to the legs and well over 35 percent occur to the left hand and wrist.
• The average chainsaw injury requires 110 stitches, and in 1989 the average medical cost was $5,600, according to the Davis-Garvin Insurance Agency, an insurance underwriter specializing in loggers insurance. In the year 2000, corresponding costs were estimated to be more than $12,000. "


Exact numbers are difficult, as not all injuries get reported, or properly classified. Work and non work related injuries are often classified differently, even if they have the same cause (e.g. use of a chainsaw).

And, being aware of the number and causes of car crashes does influence the way I drive.

Philbert
 
Some photos of 'your uncle's cousin's nephew' buddy's dad' http://www.bchw.org/Tech tips/SawCertification/Chain Saw Injuries.htm

Most of those guys probably did not expect to get hurt either - might have used saws for many, many years without getting hurt.

"• According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, there were more than 28,500 chainsaw injuries in 1999. More than 36 percent were injuries to the legs and knees.
• Approximately 40 percent of all chainsaw accidents occur to the legs and well over 35 percent occur to the left hand and wrist.
• The average chainsaw injury requires 110 stitches, and in 1989 the average medical cost was $5,600, according to the Davis-Garvin Insurance Agency, an insurance underwriter specializing in loggers insurance. In the year 2000, corresponding costs were estimated to be more than $12,000. "


Exact numbers are difficult, as not all injuries get reported, or properly classified. Work and non work related injuries are often classified differently, even if they have the same cause (e.g. use of a chainsaw). And, being aware of the number and causes of car crashes does influence the way I drive.

Philbert
As my dad and Mark Twain always said,"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies and statistics."
 
Which means what exactly, in the context here?

Philbert just made a lengthy post of mostly statistics. I was poking fun at the often high degree of inaccuracy associated with stats.

Statistics are only useful to the party that did or had the study done. They are usually a bias collection of data.
 
Philbert just made a lengthy post of mostly statistics. I was poking fun at the often high degree of inaccuracy associated with stats.

Statistics are only useful to the party that did or had the study done. They are usually a bias collection of data.

That's all well and good, but you can check out some actuarial tables if ya want, I bet some are googleable. I was an insurance agent once so I've seen a lot of these...using a chainsaw is right up there in dangerous jobs, usually most years and studies, commercial fishing and logging are about at the top. Being a cop for example hardly ever makes it into the top ten dangerous professions. Those stats the companies use are pretty accurate, they have to be. "Bias" works against them, they simply have to be as close to fully accurate as possible. Even for well trained, experienced pros, let alone weekend warriors, you got a running saw in your hands, it is dangerous, tons of guys hurt or killed running saws.
 
I will not argue that running a chainsaw is not dangerous. It can be. There is a lot of potential for serious injury. However, with proper training, all dangerous activities can be made safer. No amount of safety gear, for any occupation, activity, etc actually makes the activity safer. It can however prevent injury in the event of a mishap. Wearing a motorcycle helmet does not make you a better rider nor does wearing chaps make you a professional sawyer. I personally am uncomfortable working in a lot of PPE. I am however comfortable using a top handle with one hand.
 
I will not argue that running a chainsaw is not dangerous. It can be. There is a lot of potential for serious injury. However, with proper training, all dangerous activities can be made safer. No amount of safety gear, for any occupation, activity, etc actually makes the activity safer. It can however prevent injury in the event of a mishap. Wearing a motorcycle helmet does not make you a better rider nor does wearing chaps make you a professional sawyer. I personally am uncomfortable working in a lot of PPE. I am however comfortable using a top handle with one hand.
+1
 
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