It was there, lol. I used the 346, 066, and 681 the most though.
VIDEO: Topping and dropping a 58" DBH Oak tree
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It was there, lol. I used the 346, 066, and 681 the most though.
StihlyinEly
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was immediately curious about a point that's been made before. If there was no rot in this tree, and considering how large this was, I wonder if someone thought to contact a logger/timber operation. Quartersawn white oak is a premium furniture wood, and if this tree was suitable, the homeowner would have made money on the deal instead of handing out money to a tree service.
Not to take anything away from folks who cut down trees for money (I'm one of them) or firewood cutters/burners (I'm one of them, too.) But as an antique furniture restorer who holds QS white oak above all other woods, it always pains me to see one of these come down for firewood if it could be a good lumber tree instead. Even if it's sold for lumber, there'd still be lots and lots of wood unsuitable for lumber left over to turn into firewood.
I'm just saying.
I dont have very much run time on my 42'' and no run time on anything bigger, but i would say that rowing alittle(like using a cross cut type action) sucking the tip into the wood will square it up and help keep it true.
do it enough to keep it level.
Also various torqing of the power head might porduce some favorable results..
just my .0002 cents
you should try on that the stump..
do it enough to keep it level.
Also various torqing of the power head might porduce some favorable results..
just my .0002 cents
you should try on that the stump..
7oaks
DRUGSTORE LOGGER
Most mills will not buy/take yard trees for fear of metal.
StihlyinEly
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ahhhh, that makes good sense. Back in the day, I always used a handheld metal detector before I ran a rough plank through the planer to make sure there weren't any stray bits of nail or other metal.
Anyway, don't meant to run this off topic. It was a very cool tree and a lot of fun to watch getting taken down.
Excellent videos Brad. Were you get the time to edit and post all these pics and videos,work on saws,have a family life and do a job as well amazes me.
My 056 has only ever worn the 18" bar which came with it but we recently had to take down a 4ft fir. I looked around and found a 36" Rollomatic ES for little more than others were charging for 28" bars. I know most of you consider this still not that long but I was surprised by the sag when making horizontal cuts. Came up with the same method you describe of starting near the end of the bar and then letting off the angle of the powerhead as more bar became buried. I wondered about skip chain but it isn't readily available over here so bought RSC full comp. Needn't have worried though as 056 just growled a bit more and pulled it completely buried no trouble. However with the 36" bar it is now very nose heavy and no fun at all to handle. The 18" will be back on for most things.
I followed 056Kid's advice from an earlier thread on the wedge cuts. Did the horizontal first then dogged in from one side lining up with the that first cut. Might have been begineers luck but it lined up almost perfectly and the wedge just dropped down as the two cuts met. With the angle cut first it would have been resting on the bar and was well heavy.
woodgrenade
ArboristSite Guru
Nice videos
Brad your videos are by far one of the biggest draws to this site. Keep up the good work!
Brad your videos are by far one of the biggest draws to this site. Keep up the good work!
Yesterday was a vacation day. I was editing video until about midnight.
That was pretty cool! Why did you use such a long bar? May have been easier with a smaller bar and work the tree a little bit? Sometimes I think long bar ego gets in the way for some people. Any how......sweet though
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Its gotta be fun runnin that big bar! Great vids! Awesome quality! Like you said tho the horizontal in the face has gotta be first than the diagonal, because thats were your aiming. Unless you're in wood like that regularly I'll bet its tough to line your cuts up. I wonder if it would be easier with the bigger bar, if you could get around the awkwardness of it. Makes me wonder how those boys cut those HUGE cedars up in canada with big bars like that. Thanks for sharing your work Brad!
In the past, I have always made my horizontal cut first. I thought I was advised by others here to make the top angled cut first. First of all, that makes it harder for me to get square with where I want it to fall. Also, if you do the horizontal last, that will let the wedge of wood fall on the bar and pinch it. If I make the horizontal first, I can than start the angled cut and chase it up and over to the other corner to see if I'm lined up correctly on both sides. I'd appreciate the advise of some seasoned fallers here. I think I made more work for myself trying to improve my game on this one.
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Because he could?
andrethegiant70
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm out of rep for you, Buck-o, but that is great stuff. That tree would have been waaaay too rich for me. I'll stick with my milling. Them boys are already on the ground in my neck of the woods!!
forestryworks
Addicted to ArboristSite
nice thump when she landed.
This is hillarious. Here I expected to get torn apart on safety violations and my falling techniques, or lack there of, lol. I'm asking for advice to improve, and all you guys do is tell me how good it looks. Now come on, I know better than that:greenchainsaw:. How would a pro have fallen this stem?
Tzed250
Addicted to ArboristSite
When falling trees that size the wedge from the face cut will have significant weight. If you have made the top cut first, tap a wedge in after starting the lower cut to keep the weight off of the bar.
I know you wanted to use the big saw, but it ended up fighting you. The 066 was plenty. I have taken stems bigger than that with my 044.
This stuff doesn't happen overnight. You have chosen to post vids of you falling some big trees, and as you can see it's not easy. Better to sharpen your fundementals on smaller wood, then apply it to the big stuff. Going after the elephants first does nothing but overwhelm you. That being said, you did a pretty good job, and it turned out much better than the last one!
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Grande Dog
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
Howdy,
When you're doing a horizontal cut with a long bar, you need to start cutting with the tip end first. The pull from the chain biting will help keep the bar straight.
Regards
Gregg
When you're doing a horizontal cut with a long bar, you need to start cutting with the tip end first. The pull from the chain biting will help keep the bar straight.
Regards
Gregg
Thanks John. Hind site's 20/20, and I would should have save the 084 simply for bucking it up.
Do you recommend making the horizontal or angled cut first? I was thinking it may have been you that said to make the angled one first. I know that's how the book "to fell a tree" says to do it.
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