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On a old saw I get I will put light machine oil in cyl. Pull it over a couple times and set aside, if piston-cylinder look good. Get it running then see how it runs,idles---- I bought a compression tester years ago--still new in box never had a need for it. Some like to check compression a lot and thats fine with me. I also am into old 1930,40,50, outboards. Have got a lot of old ones up and running. No pressure testing --Just run them and enjoy-My #### are good if it starts --idles runs good.. In all my old outboards I run 8 ounces to a gallon of gas. Dad used a old small green glass coke bottle as a oil measure. Sorta cool I thought. Yall are making me wonder what the pressures are in some of my saws now-may have to dig out the kit LOL!!! ALready got CAD now I have to start check pressure on a few-------------------------------------------------------------------saws:innocent: David
 
Compression reading are never a bad idea, but pulling the muffler and checking the piston is better to check the health of an engine. seen some 150psi engines still be scored, but i gotta 3400 that only squeezes 115 but piston looks great and you wouldn't know anything was wrong when running it, of course a new ring set would bump it to maybe 130
 
I would like to ask you guys' opinion. So I cut with my super XL auto today, it was just a little tree and when I was cutting it up I couldn't help but notice how much torque this 3.55 cube motor it has. It had so much torque that it jumps pretty violently when you squeeze the throttle so much so that it was easier to cut under than it was to cut from the top. In yalls opinion do you think it could run a 28 inch bar with a full skip half chisel chain similar to the max bar length on a pro 10-10A?
 
I would like to ask you guys' opinion. So I cut with my super XL auto today, it was just a little tree and when I was cutting it up I couldn't help but notice how much torque this 3.55 cube motor it has. It had so much torque that it jumps pretty violently when you squeeze the throttle so much so that it was easier to cut under than it was to cut from the top. In yalls opinion do you think it could run a 28 inch bar with a full skip half chisel chain similar to the max bar length on a pro 10-10A?
Id save the 28 inch bar for your 925, and id run full chisel non skip
 
I would run 24" or shorter on a super xl, your 925 will pull a 28 with authority even full comp chain, i run a 36" full chisel full comp on my 923 it pulls it just fine
 
I have a setup like that for the 925, but I just wanted to unlock the super XLs maximum potential. It was just a thought :)
 
It would probly pull it ok but they get kinda unbalanced with real long bars on em. 20" is perfect, 24" is ok maybe a little nose heavy.
 
Also, I've noticed after the saw heats up a bit, if I sit it down and pick it up real quick it tries to die on me, any ideas?
 
The ones in the catalog are labeled as homelite. unless I'm getting my s#$! mixed up. I've used stihl ones for the poulans also but idk
 
I use the homlite ones for everything they work fine there just a smidge fatter than the poulan ones, if you want a poulan one jump on ebay just search poulan duckbill valve theyll come up in lots you can buy multiples at a time. There green in color
 
@Boomer 87 do I need to get a big can of that brake cleaner and fill it up and just shake it around? And I need to remove the rubber pieces correct? (For the XL-700)
 
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