Wan't to rebuild a 039

[Lakeside53]

That saw didn't have an easy childhood...

The sprocket on the clutch drum is shot... I'd replace it with a rim setup. The clutch looks really beat. Make sure your clutch shoes and spider fit without too much slop. New springs at least in any case.

If West's method of stud removal doesn't work out for you, just take out the stud closest to the end of the saw (easy), then clamp the saw into a vice using the engine mount stud. Rotate the saw to get the (*&&^^%ing stud out. The stud will be toast, but they are only a couple of bucks.

I now use a cheap 8mm Taiwan cam type stud remover - about $5.00... or $20 for a set of 5.

 

[stevieb]

Thanks Tom, not sure what you mean on the studs so if you could point them out when I start to get into it would appreciate it.

 

[stevieb]

Do you think I should replace the clutch on re-build any how? You have to remember this was not considered a pro every day saw. I have been running it on a tungsten tipped chain and its done a lot of hard work. But to its credit it still fires and runs lumpy but it runs. So I want hear a bad word for the 039 this one has been tried and tested truly.

 

[Lakeside53]

Thanks Tom, not sure what you mean on the studs so if you could point them out when I start to get into it would appreciate it.

By "studs" we mean "bar nut studs".. the thingy the bar mounts to.....


Your other question about the clutch - maybe, but often it just needs new springs and keepers.

 

[West Texas]

As Andy has said, the bar nut studs are what you mount the bar and chain on to. The front one is OK and normally not removed in a rebuild. But, if you look at the Stihl repair manual I sent you, you will see that the rear bar mount stud goes all the way into the bottom of the engine block.

You can remove the top half of the engine by removing the four bolts that hold it to the bottom part of the engine. But its a lot easier to replace the cylinder, piston and rings, if you remove the bottom half of the engine too. Or at least I think it is. And would give you a chance to look over the shaft, seals, etc. As much wear as it appears to be in the picture, you may need to replace the seals; but, this is not always the case. And you will need a good gasket sealant to put everything back together again. I used the toughest Loctite available; but, Andy can give you the name of the sealant that dealers normally use and its even better.

Also, you will need a special little plastic sleeve to go around the piston and rings, to get them back up into the new top end cylinder. A Stihl dealer may loan you one. If all else fails, I will try to get one and mail it to you.

Andy and Jeff have a lot more experience on these than I do. My learning curve was on a 290, which is very similar. Tom

 

[Dan Forsh]

Also, you will need a special little plastic sleeve to go around the piston and rings, to get them back up into the new top end cylinder. A Stihl dealer may loan you one. If all else fails, I will try to get one and mail it to you.

I'll jump in here with a cheapskate tip. You can make your own ring compressor from the plastic lid off an aerosol can. Get one a fair bit larger in diameter than your piston and cut a band off it about an inch wide. It needs to be bigger as you need to fold out and back on themselves the cut ends of the band. The ends are what you use to squeeze the rings in place. It's a bit fiddly and you could probably do better with a few more fingers on the job, but I've used it with great success on a few cylinder refits.

One thing to avoid though, you'll probably be tempted to twist the cylinder back and forth to help get the rings in. Don't do it as you can snag the end of a ring.

Dan

 

[stevieb]

Thanks Andy, Tom & Dan,

Will be doing another hour on it in the morning before the kids get out of bed so during the day I hope to feed the pics into the machine

 

[pinus]

So here goes day 1. I have no experience of chain saw maintanance and with the help of tips sent by Tom I have started the strip down. I'm taking pics along the way so if any one can tell me what to look for, would need replacing on re-build please could you tell me. Also glad to submit close ups of any part.

Dirty one as ... Not seen how was the air filter, probably unpenetratable for air
Bar shows, that was overdimensioned saw for the work done wit it. For a such diam wood MS210-250 is proper one.

 

[stevieb]

The air filter I do keep as clean as poss but have noticed lately that its becoming clogged and not easy to shift with air or a wire brush. Your right 20" bar at the moment but will be putting a 16" on re-build which I think will be better.

 

[Lakeside53]

The air filter I do keep as clean as poss but have noticed lately that its becoming clogged and not easy to shift with air or a wire brush. Your right 20" bar at the moment but will be putting a 16" on re-build which I think will be better.

Never use a wire brush... it will remove the flocking and if there is any left, pill it up. just soak it in diluted purple cleaner and or other solvents/cleaners... then wash in hot soapy water and blow out. Lots of other threads to search on about air filter cleaning.

Make sure you set the WOT conservatively with the 16 inch bar on - very easy to over-rev the saw with short bar.

 

[stevieb]

I have some more pics to upload in the morning my time. Thanks for the tip on reducing speed on a 16" bar I would not of thought of that. I want to get a meter to adjust the speed. Would a normal automotive one do?

 

[Lakeside53]

So long as your tach can go to say 15,000 (too high for your saw, but..) and has a setting for 2 stroke or 1 spark/revolution, it will work. Try a motorcycle shop - they will likely have what you need.

 

[stevieb]

I will try a motor cycle shop tomorrow however I'm probably being a bit premature at this point on that question. At last I had time today to do some more work. As I was stripping her down I noticed a fair amount of clogged old oil don't know if this means anything. Any how here are the pics again I would be grateful for any assistance here on.

 

[West Texas]

Stevieb you are sure hanging in there; that is one 'used' saw that has been run hot for a looong time. The one good thing I noticed is the carb is fully adjustable, having both the H and L jets.

I think once you get that beast totally stripped down, and soaked in a good cleaner for day or so, it might really start looking good. opcorn:

The pictures will surely help you get it back together again too; as the manual is brief in both words and pictures.

Tom

 

[hamradio]

I'm about to tear mine down again, but, this time I will pull the flywheel. On my parts saw, I can't remember. Is the flywheel nut left hand thread?

 

[stevieb]

I cant remember. Tom will surley know. When I get out into the garage today I will have a look and post you a reply.

 

[Lakeside53]

I'm about to tear mine down again, but, this time I will pull the flywheel. On my parts saw, I can't remember. Is the flywheel nut left hand thread?

The flywheel nut is standrd thread, the clutch is reverse thread. Put a piece of rope (carefully!) in the cylinder to act as a piston stop before removing either the clutch nuts or flywheel.

 

[stevieb]

Andy, Tom, can you tell me what the magnets do on the fly wheel?

 

[hamradio]

They, in conjuncting with the coil, make spark.

 

[stevieb]

Now i understand thanks you know i strip this saw down with out any understanding on what the parts do.