Want to switch to Husky climbing saw

[Jonsered2095]

Stachura01, sorry for the interuption. I have no real world working experience comparisons to offer, but I hope my brand loyalty gives you an indication of my thoughts.

You obviously like the feel and performance of your 395, and if it has proven itself to you perhaps you should give Husqvarna another try in the climbing saw class. Husqvarna is a quality brand.

I am exceptionally pleased with my 2095 and am certainly willing to give Jonsered another try, also in the climbing saw class. Hope my offerings help.

 

[Log hog]

Tuff as Nails Baby!

I started out with some Johnsereds. One was 2171 and the other was a 2145 both good saws but I always had carb trouble with the 2145 so I sold it to my uncle. I then bought a 260 PRO and love it to death. My 2171 took a crap and I really upgraded to the 660 with a 36" bar and that saw is an animal. I also own two leaf blowers two hedge trimmers two pole saws and also six chain saws all STIHL. My best saw and money maker by far is the 200T. All BS aside I would have to estimate that my 200t is between 3-4 years old and has around 2400 hrs on it. About a year ago I had to by a new fuel line and some rubber bushings for it, and this year I had to break down and buy a muffler for it. This saw has seen a bunch of drops out of trees and still keeps on ticking. I do nothing fancy to this saw just Stihl 2cycle oil a Stihl bar oil. There just Tuff As Nails Baby.

 

[Jonsered2095]

Glad to hear the STIHL works well for you! Another quality brand.

 

[MAG58]

Jonsered 2135T

The old Jonsered 2135T is mostly the same as Husqvarna 334T but whit minor detail's from the 335xpt and 338xpt, so it's not exakly same as any Husqvarna, and IT is very touchy on the carb settings, specially on the L-jet that have to be spot on, but when the setting on the carb is right this saws cut really well

 

[Jonsered2095]

Hi MAG58,

How much for the 2135T in Norway?

Is it 39cc model?

 

[MAG58]

How much for the 2135T in Norway?

Is it 39cc model?

The old Jred 2135T is very similar to Husky 334T, 35.2cc 2.0 hp, and here we have to pay about 940 US $

 

[Jonsered2095]

WOW!! Thats expensive. I am looking for the new model, 39cc. Thanks anyway.

 

[rbtree]

From the specs I've seen, the new 2135 is exactly the same powerhead parts as the 338. 2.3 hp......just a few different things like plastic.

 

[MAG58]

From the specs I've seen, the new 2135 is exactly the same power head parts as the 338. 2.3 hp......just a few different things like plastic.

Yes you have that right, the 2007 NEW EDITION Jonsered 2135T is 39 cc, and 2.3 hp, the older one that I have is 35.2cc and 2.0 hp. Here it's the price almost the same as the old one, but the 2007 have the power head parts as the 338xpt, but not exactly same saw as any Husqvarna.

:blush:

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

Boys Boys Boys. We've been through this a MILLION times. Hands down, far and away, the MAJORITY will tell you that the 200T/020T is THE top-handle saw. Period. Now that's coming from a guy that LOVES Husky's big saws. (372, 395, 3120....I hear that the 385 is a mutha too.) Husky's big saws seem to have more grunt where you need it with larger bars and flushing stumps. They just work better for me. So, think what you want of Stihl VS. Husqvarna when it comes to the large saws. They're both good. But I fought with 334, 335, 338, 338 cali....then I got an 020T on a trade. WOW. I've never looked back. I didn't even keep the small Husky's that I had. They are crap. Nothing but problems. The oiler, scuffed cylinders from persnickity carbs, fuel hose problems, filters that clog CONSTANTLY, cases that can't stand up to the daily rigors, the tail peice that comes off and causes you to get a jolt to the belly from the spark plug. Not to mention that in my neck of the woods there aren't any dealers that will touch them. It's a VERY clear choice. Don't waste your money on the very few that may mention Johnny's/Husky's/Echo's/Solo's. You want to make money? You want to get what you're paying for? Buy the dammed 200T with a 14 or 16" bar and yellow tag Stihl chain. Done. You can thank me later.

 

[Jonsered2095]

First off: just because the majority say so...

Q. Would you jump just because everybody else did?
A. Personally, I wouldn't.

Secondly: you are describing the older model(s) which everybody knows had problems and have been remedied. For example, the spark plug cover has a screw in it.

Q. How can it simply fall off?
A. Tighten the screw.


Thirdly: If you can't tune a high performance saw which will cause scuffs, get someone who can.

Lastly: I agree the Stihls are all zing and no zap. The specs tell you that. The Stihls rely on higher revs to develop more Hp. Now in a limbing saw or cutting smaller wood this may be advantagous, but in a bigger saw pulling more bar length or a larger sprocket you want lower peek power for its displacement to keep the saw in its power band.

So thank you B.U.S. for being objective.

 

[MAG58]

After my Jred 2135T was broken-in, and the carb was adjusted, and I think the L-jet is the pain to get right and must be spot on, and I did take off the spark screen, this saw scream and cut like a nice dream. I don't understand at all the negative response on this type of saws, but I know that some of the first Husky models was a disaster, but that's history and new one's seems to be good saws, and around here many pro use them.
I think that the Jonsered 2135T is great saw, but that's me.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

First off: just because the majority say so...

Q. Would you jump just because everybody else did?
A. Personally, I wouldn't.

Secondly: you are describing the older model(s) which everybody knows had problems and have been remedied. For example, the spark plug cover has a screw in it.

Q. How can it simply fall off?
A. Tighten the screw.


Thirdly: If you can't tune a high performance saw which will cause scuffs, get someone who can.

Lastly: I agree the Stihls are all zing and no zap. The specs tell you that. The Stihls rely on higher revs to develop more Hp. Now in a limbing saw or cutting smaller wood this may be advantagous, but in a bigger saw pulling more bar length or a larger sprocket you want lower peek power for its displacement to keep the saw in its power band.

So thank you B.U.S. for being objective.

After my Jred 2135T was broken-in, and the carb was adjusted, and I think the L-jet is the pain to get right and must be spot on, and I did take off the spark screen, this saw scream and cut like a nice dream. I don't understand at all the negative response on this type of saws, but I know that some of the first Husky models was a disaster, but that's history and new one's seems to be good saws, and around here many pro use them.
I think that the Jonsered 2135T is great saw, but that's me.

It takes genuine comments like this to convince people that Husky/Jred have fixed the problems with the 334/338/2135 series saws!!!


Maybe in time more people will come around but it won't be overnight!!!

 

[beowulf343]

You want to switch to a husky climbing saw? Who says the only husky you can climb with is the 335 or 338? If you have the wrists to handle them, 346's or 357's works great in the tree. I like the 200t better than the 335 or 338, but my 357's get used about 5 times more often up a tree.

 

[Jonsered2095]

I takes genuine comments...

'Hell' e lu ya!

You want to switch to a husky climbing saw? Who says the only husky you can climb with is the 335 or 338? If you have the wrists to handle them, 346's or 357's works great in the tree. I like the 200t better than the 335 or 338, but my 357's get used about 5 times more often up a tree.

Yes why not. What about 2152. Anyone use this saw?

Beowulf343, at what daimeter do you switch saws or is it a reach or power thing?

 

[beowulf343]

Beowulf343, at what daimeter do you switch saws or is it a reach or power thing?

About the only time the 200t comes out is if i have pine or spruce-the 200t works good to strip it up. But start chunking and the bigger saws come out. Yes i do like the added power but really i'm just more comfortable with a rear handle saw in a tree. And oddly enough, the temperature is a factor on whether the 200t gets used or not. A big hand with an insulated glove does not fit in the handle very good. I know several climbers who put away the 200t's every winter and break out the rear handle saws for this very reason. Sucks trying to jam your hand into the handle and is very uncomfortable after any length of time.

 

[Jonsered2095]

About the only time the 200t comes out is if i have pine or spruce-the 200t works good to strip it up. But start chunking and the bigger saws come out. Yes i do like the added power but really i'm just more comfortable with a rear handle saw in a tree.

Do you prefer the 200T over the 338 because of power? Just, I have my eye on a 338XPC 'Cali' model and am concerned that even this saw at 45cc does not have enough grunt. I am only considering a second saw for occasional use such as up trees, but also orchard work/shrubery where one handing would be an advantage, and for my lady and/or my father (73, but very active) to use. It would probably get used for limbing/small bucking also - If you got the bar length, it will probably get used!! And I don't want someone to kill prematurely an expensive arborist saw cutting 12"+ rounds! After reading different comments (including PM's) I am coming to the conclusion I/ they might be better off with a 2152/2159 or similar perhaps.

A big hand with an insulated glove does not fit in the handle very good.

Do you find this the same for the 338?

 

[joesawer]

Unless some one is a pro climber or has some other extreme need for a short saw. they will almost always be better served with a tail handle saw instead of a top handle saw.

 

[Jonsered2095]

Unless some one is a pro climber or has some other extreme need for a short saw. they will almost always be better served with a tail handle saw instead of a top handle saw.

Hey Joe! I liked the idea of being able to one hand. But if they don't have enough grunt to do the bigger work I will either have to get two extra saws or just get along without the one handing ability. I can import one for nearly half the price of buying one locally. Thanks.

 

[hornett22]

couldn't have said it better.

Boys Boys Boys. We've been through this a MILLION times. Hands down, far and away, the MAJORITY will tell you that the 200T/020T is THE top-handle saw. Period. Now that's coming from a guy that LOVES Husky's big saws. (372, 395, 3120....I hear that the 385 is a mutha too.) Husky's big saws seem to have more grunt where you need it with larger bars and flushing stumps. They just work better for me. So, think what you want of Stihl VS. Husqvarna when it comes to the large saws. They're both good. But I fought with 334, 335, 338, 338 cali....then I got an 020T on a trade. WOW. I've never looked back. I didn't even keep the small Husky's that I had. They are crap. Nothing but problems. The oiler, scuffed cylinders from persnickity carbs, fuel hose problems, filters that clog CONSTANTLY, cases that can't stand up to the daily rigors, the tail peice that comes off and causes you to get a jolt to the belly from the spark plug. Not to mention that in my neck of the woods there aren't any dealers that will touch them. It's a VERY clear choice. Don't waste your money on the very few that may mention Johnny's/Husky's/Echo's/Solo's. You want to make money? You want to get what you're paying for? Buy the dammed 200T with a 14 or 16" bar and yellow tag Stihl chain. Done. You can thank me later.

husky is bar far the best for big.stihl is the top choice for small.