Weaver Cougar Saddle - Rope Bridge, No Ring?

[PlatinumGroup-CHASE]

So I picked up a new saddle, a Weaver Cougar. I noticed it doesn't have a ring on the rope/web bridge. Can I clip a rigging plate with a beaner directly to the web rope bridge? Can I install a ring to clip into?

 

[JeffGu]

That's a webbing bridge. If you want a ring, buy a Petzl Ring Open or follow the instructions in the video below for replacing the bridge and put a regular ring on it.
An ABR Radius Ring would be a better choice... much better radius.

Replacing Bridge on Cougar Saddle

ABR Radius Ring

 

[PlatinumGroup-CHASE]

That's a webbing bridge. If you want a ring, buy a Petzl Ring Open or follow the instructions in the video below for replacing the bridge and put a regular ring on it.
An ABR Radius Ring would be a better choice... much better radius.

Replacing Bridge on Cougar Saddle

ABR Radius Ring

Wow, that Radius Ring is the ticket, great! Thanks for the info!

 

[JeffGu]

No problem... Cougar is actually a nice saddle for the money. Easy to modify, too.

 

[PlatinumGroup-CHASE]

No problem... Cougar is actually a nice saddle for the money. Easy to modify, too.

I've read a few horror stories of failure of the web bridge, I was initially timid but I've been building confidence staying low and learning how different systems work.

 

[JeffGu]

I thought those problems were only with a rope bridge on the ones made in 2010 or thereabouts. The pic you posted shows it with a webbing type bridge, which should be ok.
My Tree Austria has a webbing bridge, I bought a couple of extra ones for it. Haven't had to replace the first one, yet. Just inspect it regularly, and when you get some extra cash, get a couple of extra ones so you're not stuck waiting for it if you need to replace it in the field. Saw cut, or it just doesn't look too good from wear. That's a very high wear component on the saddle, so keep an eye on it. If you're climbing 5 days a week, you might have to replace it in six months or so, otherwise about a year or so.

 

[PlatinumGroup-CHASE]

I thought those problems were only with a rope bridge on the ones made in 2010 or thereabouts. The pic you posted shows it with a webbing type bridge, which should be ok.
My Tree Austria has a webbing bridge, I bought a couple of extra ones for it. Haven't had to replace the first one, yet. Just inspect it regularly, and when you get some extra cash, get a couple of extra ones so you're not stuck waiting for it if you need to replace it in the field. Saw cut, or it just doesn't look too good from wear. That's a very high wear component on the saddle, so keep an eye on it. If you're climbing 5 days a week, you might have to replace it in six months or so, otherwise about a year or so.

Thanks for the info! I will order a replacement to have on hand, thats a good idea. While I got ya here, let me ask... The leg straps are squishing the ole twig and berries when i'm on rope, i'd like to have babies one day, should my leg straps be lower, tightening will only slow blood to my lower legs. Is this something to just deal with or am I simply not adjusted right?

 

[JeffGu]

Keep trying different adjustments... you'll be surprised at how little changes can make a big difference. I have a hook in a beam in the garage, and I'll keep messing with them until it feels right just hanging, then I'll throw a line up in a tree maybe 25' up and try climbing around a little on it. Might need to fiddle with stuff, again. Same thing with the stuff I want on that particular harness... saw lanyard, dittybag, slings... whatever I think I'll want to carry on job sites. I'll try to get everything as close to perfect as I can just messin' around in the backyard. Hate to have to sort this stuff out on site, so it's worth getting comfortable with the new saddle when there's no pressure. You can concentrate better and think about small adjustments that free the boys up from that pinching sensation when you make certain moves. Don't be afraid to try stuff that doesn't immediately seem right, like loosening up the leg straps a lot and seeing how that feels, even if it's the opposite of what worked on a previous saddle. They're all different, every body type is a little different.. takes awhile to get each saddle right for you.

I know that's not much help, but it's all I've got. My Buckingham Deluxe Master harness, I have the leg straps pretty snug... on a New Tribe, I have to have them loose. Tree Austria, in between. I have a couple of big wall rock climbing harnesses that I modified for tree work... those ones I have to snug up the leg straps, then back them off so I can easily slip my fingers between my leg and the straps. I have to readjust those if I'm wearing longjohns and insulated pants in the winter, or chainsaw pants. But, I've got it down to where I can do it quickly because I've figured out exactly how much slop needs to be in the leg straps. Another adjustment that makes quite a bit of difference for me, is the adjustment of the connection between rear of saddle and leg straps. Takes me awhile to get that one right on a new saddle, too. They are all so different, I've had to fiddle with them all when I got them, and what works good on one is always wrong for another one, it seems.

Good luck, it takes some fiddling. To be honest, I sometimes spend a couple days in a row at home with a new harness, trying to get it right before I use it on the job. It's no fun getting up in a tree and finding out the twins ain't happy.

 

[Ffmech17]

I've been using that saddle for abut 3 years and like it. I put a small DMM Axxis swivel on my bridge, so much nicer. If you didn't get it the batten seat is a real comfortable addition.

 

[benjo75]

I still have a Cougar. I did the Liger conversion to it. It's very useful and comfortable. I usually put a small rigging plate and a ring on my bridges. I'll clip into both which helps with the bend radius and also provides an extra point of attachment for running a second line. The Liger conversion is nice because you can change the bridge often and cheap and it offers lower attachment points for a lanyard.