Welding bars together to make them longer

[Sawdust Man]

If you want to try it then go for it!!!
I think it sounds interesting, and if it works maybe lots of folks will benefit, because you went boldly where no man has gone before!
My dad made so many homemade inventions when I was growing up..... we never knew what to expect, some worked some didn't, but nobody ever got hurt because he practiced common sense and caution.
Just use common sense and caution and you'll be just fine.

 

[3000 FPS]

Necessity is the mother of invention.

 

[calamari]

Not to many cutting big timber on a regular basis anymore... granted I've ran the 084 enough this week (its tuesday) to hate my life and remember there are muscles in what used to be called a neck... and put a pretty decent wad of cash in Nelson Petroleum's christmas fund... (fecking thing is hard on fuel... ) (also, I'm well into my cups at this point trying to forget that my legs hate me as well) But hey 2 days of cutting and there are at least 6 loads of logs waiting to be hauled... not T bag for hand falling and hand limbing/bucking

Anyway, I'd be surprised if they sold more then a few hundred of any bar over say 50"s, then figure that everyone they do sell is a random *** size...


Back to the point of the thread in general, extra long bars have their own set of peculiar issues, assuming they are up to spec to begin with, they are floppy on a good day, keeping a chain on one is just a pain in the *** at all times, then you factor in chain size and power head requirements... anything over say 42" pretty much needs a big block saw, 100cc or better, so you're talking more then likely .404 chain or bigger... (though it can be done with .063 3/8 chain... its not advisable) then you have to figure that the chain has to be perfectly sharpened, and thats a whole lot of expensive chain to file FYI, anyhow...

to the point... build it, have fun doing so, if it works fantabulous, if it fails **** it you tried, as for the world of naysayers **** them too what have they done that was fun and creative? As for it failing and risking life and limb... not likely, don't be an ***** and keep the soft fleshy bits protected, no worries, if the bar breaks, worst case scenerio it gets jammed in the cut and you lose a fairly valuable slab, if it magically breaks while trying to over rev the **** out of a 90cc saw.., feck all is going to happen any worse then throwing the chain and scuffing your boots.

Great assessment of what to expect.

 

[northmanlogging]

mid week update, I got to run an MS881 today, still think the ole 084 is a more skookum choocher, haven't ran an 088/880, but I have played with an 090, 3120 and maybe a sachs 166... so far I'm kinda happy with the 084, though the 881 is more ergonomic, the 084 just runs smoother and faster.

 

[scor440tk]

Buy a longer bar = spend money. OR. Cobble up some gizmo that explodes, and takes out your leg like a sharkbite. There is no such thing as making guide bars with a welder.......and if there is, thats a Mad Max 3 sequel.

Explode?

 

[scor440tk]

Greetings folks

I don’t know if this is crazy or nuts but I’m thinking about welding 2 36” bars together for a saw mill to use on my 076, just wondering if anyone has done it and if it’s safe to do

I can tig weld and do all that good stuff just don’t want the bar to break in half due to stress while milling

Any ideas

Do what you want use high carbon rod the chainsaw guy might help he has repaired bars if the bar breaks so what it’s in the log when it happens reading all the negative comments of what might happen is not from experience it’s just those people wouldn’t do it so you shouldn’t go for it let’s see some video cutting when your finished.

 

[muddstopper]

Let me throw another ideal at you. If your dead set on making a long bar, why not start from scratch. Find out what kind of steel is used, buy a sheet of the metal, cut out the size and shape you want and laminate your own bar. A little silver solder will hold it together. I bet it will be cheaper than the $800 cost of a new bar

 

[calamari]

Let me throw another ideal at you. If your dead set on making a long bar, why not start from scratch. Find out what kind of steel is used, buy a sheet of the metal, cut out the size and shape you want and laminate your own bar. A little silver solder will hold it together. I bet it will be cheaper than the $800 cost of a new bar

You can buy a 6' bar from Amazon for Husqvarna for $389 US and $369 US for Stihl. Hardly worth the effort and materials cost to make one.

 

[ken morgan]

It seems that many think you are crazy to try it. I do not agree with them. I see no reason why to not try it. It may not work or it might. First I have seen bars that were welded, it is possible to do. If you are a skilled welder you know that the quality of the steel will be important. Starting with goof quality bars is essential. Next as for the belly that is easy to deal with. You said you want to use it for milling so I assume you will be using a oiler/helper handle. You are not going to get 72 inches but cut the bars at equal spots and weld them end to end. Then mount your oiler or handle. As for safety I lost at that...... What do folks think is going to happen??? For gosh sakes if the weld fails the chain will come off and bind up. It will be no different than any chain throw on a long bar. Where would the world be without folks that have ingenuity.

Bill

i have a bow bar where the gentleman who rebuilds them welds on the bar with stellite rods for hardness. he ten regrinds the groove back out to the proper size fot he intended chain. So yes you can weld on a bar if you have the correct skill set.

 

[TRTermite]

No mention of a "SAW SHOP" for regrooving.
I once thought of welding 2 cast iron clawfoot bath tub together to make a long one Ended up that I outthunk myself and realized "I really didn't need it that bad".
I have welded more than one circle saw blade. first ones were with stick, 680 eutectic or Airco 308-16. Most were 8/9 ga. 48" to 60" 400 to 600 RPM. there is a knack to it and needs tensioned (Hammered) when you get done.

 

[calamari]

No mention of a "SAW SHOP" for regrooving.
I once thought of welding 2 cast iron clawfoot bath tub together to make a long one Ended up that I outthunk myself and realized "I really didn't need it that bad".
I have welded more than one circle saw blade. first ones were with stick, 680 eutectic or Airco 308-16. Most were 8/9 ga. 48" to 60" 400 to 600 RPM. there is a knack to it and needs tensioned (Hammered) when you get done.

I was going to suggest hammer welding to relieve stress in the weld and surrounding metal. You do that when you weld cast iron using the pointy end of a slag hammer. Lots of dimples means reduced stress. At least that was how it used to be done. The hard part when welding a surface that has to remain parallel is getting the hammering right on both sides so you dont warp it.

 

[3000 FPS]

i have a bow bar where the gentleman who rebuilds them welds on the bar with stellite rods for hardness. he ten regrinds the groove back out to the proper size fot he intended chain. So yes you can weld on a bar if you have the correct skill set.

Yes that is true that they have used stellite on the rails of the bar where the chain rides for bow bars, but that is not always the case with a regular bar. Stellite is very brittle, and a regular chainsaw bar has a lot of flex in them.
I have some stellite rod here and have welded up the cutters on my stump grinder. It is a very hard material and not easy to grind, but it does wear really good.

 

[TRTermite]

Yes that is true that they have used stellite on the rails of the bar where the chain rides for bow bars, but that is not always the case with a regular bar. Stellite is very brittle, and a regular chainsaw bar has a lot of flex in them.
I have some stellite rod here and have welded up the cutters on my stump grinder. It is a very hard material and not easy to grind, but it does wear really good.

STOODY ROD is used for hard facing a lot of high impact/heavy wear like equipment buckets and rock quarry machinery. There are a few ways to apply it.

 

[3000 FPS]

I will check out the Stoody Rod. Thanks for the tip.

 

[mcbk]

I will check out the Stoody Rod. Thanks for the tip.

I have used Stoody rods 1105 and 2110, extensively, for repair welding anvils. 1105 is a little more wear resistant; 2110 is a little more ductile. Both good hardfacing stick rods.

 

[3000 FPS]

I have used Stoody rods 1105 and 2110, extensively, for repair welding anvils. 1105 is a little more wear resistant; 2110 is a little more ductile. Both good hardfacing stick rods.

Ok. I do not stick weld I have a tig welder though. I was doing a little reading on the Stoody rods earlier and sounds like some good welding rods.

 

[mcbk]

Ok. I do not stick weld I have a tig welder though. I was doing a little reading on the Stoody rods earlier and sounds like some good welding rods.

Stoody makes good stuff for sure. I would imagine they have a filler rod that would fit the bill.

 

[StihlPotlicker]

Greetings folks

I don’t know if this is crazy or nuts but I’m thinking about welding 2 36” bars together for a saw mill to use on my 076, just wondering if anyone has done it and if it’s safe to do

I can tig weld and do all that good stuff just don’t want the bar to break in half due to stress while milling

Any ideas

i saw a post of a guy in Australia did that for a log he milled using his 880, If i remember correctly he welded 2 84" bars together.

 

[Bill G]

Do not let the naysayers discourage you. There are some who bring up points that are relevant and others that are not. Is what you want to do possible? Of course it is. Is it practical? That is something only you can answer and your opinion is the one that matters not what others think that have never attempted it. The talk of it not being safe is in MY opinion is hogwash. That is my opinion based on my experience. I have seen welded and never seen one that broke and hurt anyone. If someone else has then it would be great to hear from them. For gosh sakes a proper weld is STRONGER than the base metal. If it was not then welds would break all the time. Do welds break? Of course they do. The ones that break are improper welds. Is it possible to improperly weld the bars? Of course it is, BUT no one here can predict of your project will break. You are the only one that knows your welding ability not someone posting on the internet. Would I personally try to weld them together? No I would not, BUT that is because I know I do not have the welding skills to doit NOT because it is not possible. Think about this. Would you put a turbine engine in the back of a Dodge minivan? Maybe,maybe not. Is it possible? Of course it is. Is it practical? Well it was to the guy who did it. Was it safe? Well he did not get hurt so who knows. Was it possible for the first guy to build a chainsaw with a V-8 engine? Of course it was. Was it practical? Well it was to him and all the others that have done it since. If folks only did things that were totally practical we would still be using rocks for tools.


and never se

 

[ken morgan]

I think if you weld the "center" of the bar and avoid the rails area strictly for milling purposes would work without the need to machine anything. its all the matter of how well you jig the items up prior to welding. I tig, mig, stick and have been known to occasionally use a gas torch for welding or brazing as well, and my own experience is that if mild to medium steel you jig it and weld it. if its a specialty then preheat if needed and go from there. only thing that ever gives me fits is aluminum. anything over 1.3 mm is OK anything under I have issues with the puddle. I have tigged cast iron and cast steel with no issues a little preheat and depending upon which medium a little ball peen action for stress relief.