There’s a couple sitting around here that are like that but not for Stihl I don’t really worry too much about older Stihl saws plenty of parts available one way or another.Saw this on the bay earlier...
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I made sprockets for my 820 PowerBee (134cc) motors on my old Wards Chainsaw and my Alaskan style mill. I plasma cut as you did, the newer style drum to fit my older drum. I made a simple mandrel to center both pieces and then hard silver brazed them together. I Guarantee it will not come apart. I have 4’ and 6’ bars on my mill and have had zero problems. If you can gas weld, brazing is a snap. Just showing how I built my drums.View attachment 986396
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Not my work, came to me that way, runs surprisingly true considering.
Mark
That’s where hard facing shines on my homemade drag behind land leveler I’m most likely going to ad som hard facing. I used older bed frame rails for the cross members(the parts that scrape the soil) and their really hard but couldn’t hurt to ad some abrasion resistance to the and the sides.Interestingly,, "hard facing" welding rods do not produce a "hard weld"
They actually produce a very abrasion resistant weld,
Most applications would fail quickly if the weld metal that resulted was hard,,
it would break like glass.
I got a brand new bolt-on CAT toothbar for my tractor about a decade ago,,
after 8 hours of use, the teeth had worn away almost 1/8",,
I bought some Hard Facing stick electrodes, and faced the teeth.
In the past decade of similar use, no further wear can be seen.
Here is a closeup of the teeth,, (I was putting a 200 pound vise on my workbench)
I don’t have trouble with it I used it on a crappy Mazda protege my buddy had even on thin body metal I was able to get it to work with a tool every body man should have in his box a copper backer.mig weld spot weld type technic body work is the only way ,other wise you burn thru flux core is also a bad choice for some reason very hard to get a decent spot weld with flux core