Were Poulan 2000s stingy oilers?

[Ironhand]

I honestly don't know why I feel the need to get my little 2.0/2000 back in working order. I got it for free which is proabbly what it's worth. If nothing else, it's a good learning experience.

I got it running well. With that stubby bar, it's actually pretty impressive. Initially, it wasn't oiling at all. After dissecting it, I found the supply line from the bar oil pickup/filter had completely fallen apart. I split the cases, ran a new line, blew out the pickup with carb cleaner, and put it back together. At idle with the bar off, I get no oil. It only appears to oil at or near WOT. The only thing I can think of is that there is a restriction in the oil pickup. Can that piece be disassembled? I assume there must be a check ball in there because I can blow one way through it, but not the other.

 

[Fifelaker]

I paid the same $ as you did. Mine oils 1:1 gas/oil. I never checked at idle but at WOT it slings oil off the chain.

 

[naturelover]

These use the chain spinning by the oil hole to create suction to pull oil up the tube to the chain. They won't drip oil at idle like saws with driven oil pumps, though they can continue to oil after the saw is shut off if the suction is not released by cracking the oil cap.

There is also an oil filter underneath the shiny metal cover near the front bar mount, which would have been seen if the case was split and line replaced. That can get clogged too.

Mine seemed to oil a 16" bar fairly well, though I think it wold have been happier with a 12" or 14" bar.

 

[Ironhand]

These use the chain spinning by the oil hole to create suction to pull oil up the tube to the chain. They won't drip oil at idle like saws with driven oil pumps, though they can continue to oil after the saw is shut off if the suction is not released by cracking the oil cap.

There is also an oil filter underneath the shiny metal cover near the front bar mount, which would have been seen if the case was split and line replaced. That can get clogged too.

Mine seemed to oil a 16" bar fairly well, though I think it wold have been happier with a 12" or 14" bar.

Hmmm...interesting. I thought these used crankcase pressure to pressurize the oil tank. :msp_unsure:

 

[DSS]

Hmmm...interesting. I thought these used crankcase pressure to pressurize the oil tank. :msp_unsure:

Yes.

 

[3000 FPS]

I honestly don't know why I feel the need to get my little 2.0/2000 back in working order. I got it for free which is proabbly what it's worth. If nothing else, it's a good learning experience.

I got it running well. With that stubby bar, it's actually pretty impressive. Initially, it wasn't oiling at all. After dissecting it, I found the supply line from the bar oil pickup/filter had completely fallen apart. I split the cases, ran a new line, blew out the pickup with carb cleaner, and put it back together. At idle with the bar off, I get no oil. It only appears to oil at or near WOT. The only thing I can think of is that there is a restriction in the oil pickup. Can that piece be disassembled? I assume there must be a check ball in there because I can blow one way through it, but not the other.

I have a copy of the a service manual for the 2000. Send a PM with your email address and I will send a copy. It has a pretty good section on the oiler.

 

[naturelover]

Well, I wondered that, but I was told differently by someone as he said that is why mine wouldn't oil at idle but would while it was running.

Made sense at the time, guess maybe I had a problem with mine too. Though looking back, crankcase pressure makes much more sense.

Thanks for the confirmation, apologies for the mis-information.

 

[galde]

I just finished fixing a Craftsman 2.3/14 (in the MicroXXV family, which had engines of 1.8, 2.0, 2.1, and 2.3 C.I.D.). I routinely replace the oil pickup line in the oil tank and the check valve which is located just forward of the sprocket. You needn't split the case. Just remove the plate that holds the filter in the oil tank and fish a new length of line through the oil delivery hole with a thin wire. The check valve is threaded into the crankcase and it delivers crankcase pressure pulses through a duckbill valve into the oil tank to pressurize the oil tank. When the oil tank pressure builds up enough to overcome the spring-loaded ball check valve in the filter body, oil is pushed to the bar. These saws are mostly all old enough for the rubber duckbill valve to be deteriorated. When they melt or disintegrate they let the pressure come back into the crankcase, and frequently bar oil gets into the crankcase as evidenced by sudden heavy smoking. If these saws don't oil, it is almost always the oil line, the check valve, or both,

 

[galde]

I might also add that these saws will oil at idle and will continue to oil after shutdown until the oil tank pressure drops enough for the ball-check valve in the filter body to close. There is a bleed hole just to the rear of the oil delivery hole that is partially plugged with a thin wire. Do not remove this wire. This is a calibrated bleed-off for the oil tank. Some users will loosen the oil cap when shutting down to immediately stop oiling. I like these old saws. I wouldn't trade the one I just fixed for any current Poulan-made Craftsman that they now sell. Just get used to the idea that you will almost always have to restore the chain oiling system.

 

[DSS]

I might also add that these saws will oil at idle and will continue to oil after shutdown until the oil tank pressure drops enough for the ball-check valve in the filter body to close. There is a bleed hole just to the rear of the oil delivery hole that is partially plugged with a thin wire. Do not remove this wire. This is a calibrated bleed-off for the oil tank. Some users will loosen the oil cap when shutting down to immediately stop oiling. I like these old saws. I wouldn't trade the one I just fixed for any current Poulan-made Craftsman that they now sell. Just get used to the idea that you will almost always have to restore the chain oiling system.

Where do you get the new check valves?

 

[galde]

The check valve is Poulan part no. 530-069142. At one time an aftermarket version was available from Stens (Stens Part no. 610-377) but Stens no longer offers this part. Luckily I had saved all the old ones so I just rebuild them with a fresh duckbill. A couple years (or more??) ago on this site I described my procedure. Poulan duckbill valves should still be available since they are still being used in their fuel caps. Those check valves were not made to be repairable since the screen on the end pointing into the crankcase is clinched in place. I carefully file or dremel-grind away the crimp to free the screen undamaged. After removing the residue of the old duckbill, insert a new duckbill and reattach the screen with a bead of J-B Weld. I changed over to Homelite duckbills when I lost my source for Poulan duckbills. The Homelite duckbill (Homelite Part No. 69451 Stens Part No. 610-345) is shorter and slightly fatter than the Poulan duckbill, so I would drill a larger opening in the check valve body to accommodate the Homelite duckbill. The older check valves had a hex head of 1/2" size. The sprocket need not be removed to remove the check valve. A good (meaning thin) 1/2" combination wrench will go under the sprocket. A later version of the check valve had a slot for a compact right-angle flat screwdriver. If you don't have a suitable tool then the sprocket can be removed for easier access to the check valve. Even if you find a NOS check valve, the internal duckbill would be suspect because of age. Ethanol is a duckbill killer. Look at how quickly it ruins the old fuel lines, primer bulbs, carburetor diaphragms, etc.
Many of these old saws were tossed when they quit oiling. I have fixed many that were given to me or else sold to me for $5 or $10. I still have a dozen or so that I haven't got around to fixing.

 

[redunshee]

These use the chain spinning by the oil hole to create suction to pull oil up the tube to the chain. They won't drip oil at idle like saws with driven oil pumps, though they can continue to oil after the saw is shut off if the suction is not released by cracking the oil cap.

There is also an oil filter underneath the shiny metal cover near the front bar mount, which would have been seen if the case was split and line replaced. That can get clogged too.

Mine seemed to oil a 16" bar fairly well, though I think it wold have been happier with a 12" or 14" bar.

Suction? They use crankcase impulses to oil.

 

[naturelover]

Yea, as said, I thought they worked as most other pressurized oiler saws do, but I was told about the suction theory by someone after I was talking with them about it not oiling at idle. It oiled well at speed, so I didn't look into it after being told that, then it was stolen.

I will look at my Wizard and it's oiler system to see what's what, which I suppose would have been the best idea before posting. :tongue:

Anyway, since the ye ol' suction theory went down in a ball o' flames, hope the OP figures out what the problem was, then I'll know what was the most likely unbeknownst problem mine had.

 

[J.W Younger]

I just finished fixing a Craftsman 2.3/14 (in the MicroXXV family, which had engines of 1.8, 2.0, 2.1, and 2.3 C.I.D.). I routinely replace the oil pickup line in the oil tank and the check valve which is located just forward of the sprocket. You needn't split the case. Just remove the plate that holds the filter in the oil tank and fish a new length of line through the oil delivery hole with a thin wire. The check valve is threaded into the crankcase and it delivers crankcase pressure pulses through a duckbill valve into the oil tank to pressurize the oil tank. When the oil tank pressure builds up enough to overcome the spring-loaded ball check valve in the filter body, oil is pushed to the bar. These saws are mostly all old enough for the rubber duckbill valve to be deteriorated. When they melt or disintegrate they let the pressure come back into the crankcase, and frequently bar oil gets into the crankcase as evidenced by sudden heavy smoking. If these saws don't oil, it is almost always the oil line, the check valve, or both,

Will the pistons and cyls interchange on these? I have a real clean 1800 that was given to me. Needs jug ang slug and clutch side bearing.

 

[Ironhand]

Thanks to all of the helpful replies, I she seems to be oiling again. I honestly didn't expect much of a response considering the saw involved.

The tip and manuals about removing the clutch to access the check valve was particularly helpful. I saw the screen from the inside when I had the cases split, but never put 2+2 together that the bolt behind the clutch contained the valve.

After I blew it out with carb cleaner and air, it seems to work.

 

[3000 FPS]

Thanks to all of the helpful replies, I she seems to be oiling again. I honestly didn't expect much of a response considering the saw involved.

The tip and manuals about removing the clutch to access the check valve was particularly helpful. I saw the screen from the inside when I had the cases split, but never put 2+2 together that the bolt behind the clutch contained the valve.

After I blew it out with carb cleaner and air, it seems to work.

There must be alot of closet Poulan owners on here. :cool2:

 

[J.W Younger]

There must be alot of closet Poulan owners on here. :cool2:

No sense being in the closet about it, I got em by the buckets full!

 

[DSS]

Those are great little saws, I think I have four of them in different shapes and colors.

Jdub, I think pistons and such will swap between a 1800 and a 2000 type, but I get confused about them, there's about 4 different cc sizes.

 

[J.W Younger]

Those are great little saws, I think I have four of them in different shapes and colors.

Jdub, I think pistons and such will swap between a 1800 and a 2000 type, but I get confused about them, there's about 4 different cc sizes.

Welp, that 1.8 is the only top handle i gots, but i got 28-29 series and wood shark/wild things out the ass. Its ups my chances of findin one if they all fit.
May not be worth messin with but i got lots of time now and could use a top handle. This thing looks allmost new but somethig made the bearing fail and thats prob what burnt it up.

 

[3000 FPS]

No sense being in the closet about it, I got em by the buckets full!

It was a joke and yes I have my fair share of them also. No sense in throwing alot of money at a saw when the tree knows no difference.