Were Poulan 2000s stingy oilers?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
So since we are on a Poulan 2000 thread I thought I talk about one I played around with. I took one pulled the cylinder off and found a new ring for 5 bucks on ebay and scuffed the cylinder up alittle by hand. Since this is a reed valve engine it has no intake port. The cylinder is aluminum with no nikasil so I took some needle files and widened the exhaust port and rounded the top edge of the transfers just alittle. Put it back together without a base gasket and the squish was .040. I then did a muffler mod because it was pretty well stricted. Well anyways I tuned it up and put a tach on it 4 stroking out wood 2 stroking in wood. Out of wood tach read 11,500. It came with a 16 bar and chain 3/8 LP. I cut some 10" elm and I have to say I was very impressed with this little thing. This thing should cut through a 6 or 7 inch limb with no problem at all. The only problem I have is with that muffler mod this little sucker sure is loud. All part of the hobby, messing around with something then seeing what it will do and all it cost me was 5 bucks.
 
Last edited:
Will the pistons and cyls interchange on these? I have a real clean 1800 that was given to me. Needs jug ang slug and clutch side bearing.
I think they all had the same crank and connecting rod. The jugs had some differences in the tapped holes for attaching to the case. There is a good chance that most jug/slug combos are interchangeable.
 
nice!!!

The check valve is Poulan part no. 530-069142. At one time an aftermarket version was available from Stens (Stens Part no. 610-377) but Stens no longer offers this part. Luckily I had saved all the old ones so I just rebuild them with a fresh duckbill. A couple years (or more??) ago on this site I described my procedure. Poulan duckbill valves should still be available since they are still being used in their fuel caps. Those check valves were not made to be repairable since the screen on the end pointing into the crankcase is clinched in place. I carefully file or dremel-grind away the crimp to free the screen undamaged. After removing the residue of the old duckbill, insert a new duckbill and reattach the screen with a bead of J-B Weld. I changed over to Homelite duckbills when I lost my source for Poulan duckbills. The Homelite duckbill (Homelite Part No. 69451 Stens Part No. 610-345) is shorter and slightly fatter than the Poulan duckbill, so I would drill a larger opening in the check valve body to accommodate the Homelite duckbill. The older check valves had a hex head of 1/2" size. The sprocket need not be removed to remove the check valve. A good (meaning thin) 1/2" combination wrench will go under the sprocket. A later version of the check valve had a slot for a compact right-angle flat screwdriver. If you don't have a suitable tool then the sprocket can be removed for easier access to the check valve. Even if you find a NOS check valve, the internal duckbill would be suspect because of age. Ethanol is a duckbill killer. Look at how quickly it ruins the old fuel lines, primer bulbs, carburetor diaphragms, etc.
Many of these old saws were tossed when they quit oiling. I have fixed many that were given to me or else sold to me for $5 or $10. I still have a dozen or so that I haven't got around to fixing.








it sure would be cool to see some pics on how you did that.. i was going to try to do it but was not sure if moto seal or somthing else i bet you had to dab the JB on there a wee bit at a time.... i desroyed the screen trying to get it off was going to use a carb screen.... glad im not the only one that has thought about how to do this .. very cool.
 
Update on my Craftsman 2.3/14 (Poulan MXXV)

Someone dropped off a Husqy 359 for repair and saw my old Craftsman. He tried it in a log and talked me into selling it to him for $50.
 
To all the people giving their 2 cents on how these little poulan 2000 saws draw there oil. They are a pressurized oil system that runs from a check valve behind the clutch it looks like a 1/2" bolt that has a port leading to the oil tank. From there oil is pushed through a foam filter then through another check valve that the oil feed line is hooked to that runs to bar. It will feed oil at idle or wot and after you shut down the saw it will still feed oil until the oil cap is loosened up. For a micro saw these sure pack a punch
 

Attachments

  • 1416940691278.jpg
    1416940691278.jpg
    80.6 KB
so i am curious i was using tygon fuel line to replace my oil lines when they fail but it seems like the heat in the crank case makes it brittle not lasting like oem...... ya all think ech or home lite black fuel line would hold up better with the heat in the crank case???? would Like to know what ya all use.... thanks.....
 
[ i used the black echo line and it is plyable in the cold too id like to order spools of it cause any place that sells it by the foot will bend you over before you can walk out the door QUOTE="stubnail67, post: 5473904, member: 53779"]so i am curious i was using tygon fuel line to replace my oil lines when they fail but it seems like the heat in the crank case makes it brittle not lasting like oem...... ya all think ech or home lite black fuel line would hold up better with the heat in the crank case???? would Like to know what ya all use.... thanks.....[/QUOTE]
 
yea i think i will give it a try.... best place for oem in a 25 foot roll? mowers for you?the bay? night man.....
 
so i am curious i was using tygon fuel line to replace my oil lines when they fail but it seems like the heat in the crank case makes it brittle not lasting like oem...... ya all think ech or home lite black fuel line would hold up better with the heat in the crank case???? would Like to know what ya all use.... thanks.....

I believe the heat does affect the tygon fuel line and that is why it is not recommended to be used as an impulse line. The heat from the cylinder affects it. So it is possible the heat in the crank case is making it brittle when used as a oil line. I try and use rubber type lines for those applications.
 
I believe the heat does affect the tygon fuel line and that is why it is not recommended to be used as an impulse line. The heat from the cylinder affects it. So it is possible the heat in the crank case is making it brittle when used as a oil line. I try and use rubber type lines for those applications.


yea i think your right... rubber as in the black lines like say echo or homelite?
 
anyone explain how the oiler work in a 3700......alert thread hijack but it is a poulan!

thanks

There is a small pintle that moves in and out from the crankcase impulses. The head of this pintle pushes on a diaphragm. The action of the diaphragm is what pumps the oil. To my knowledge the diaphragm is no longer available and it what usually goes bad. The diaphragm gets to stiff. There was some guys over in the Poulan sticky that found some material that was suitable and made their own diaphragms and I believe worked pretty good. I myself when using my 3700 on long cuts use the manual oiler for alittle extra insurance.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top