whadja do today?

[ZinTrees]

“the variety of ways in which we kick tree ass”.

the only ass you kick is your own after remembering you should have retired 20 years ago

 

[ZinTrees]

my next big purchase

 

[treevet]

Okay, perhaps I should’ve said “the variety of ways in which we kick tree ass”. Lol

could a job be more open and easy? Just sayin (and lol) roller.

 

[treevet]

my next big purchase
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This is about a million times more useful than that...

 

[treevet]

 

[gorman]

This is about a million times more useful than that...

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I 2nd that.

 

[ZinTrees]

This is about a million times more useful than that...

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only difference is I can have the exact length I want, and a dead eye is more versatile, and cheaper, only a bit slower to tie, I trust my knot tying more than anyones splices

 

[ZinTrees]

ill take a 25ft dead eye with double the MBS AND cheaper over your ultra slings any day

 

[ZinTrees]

I think a good brush cutter should be part of nearly every tree crew's available equipment. They take up a lot of space on the truck, but they can't be beat for clearing scrub brush underneath the trees. It all depends on how much you need to clear. A little bit: use a chainsaw. A couple hundred square feet: Bring the brush cutter!

Hint: put a manual feed string head on beneath your steel brush blade. Load it with .155 heavy duty string. Hack away! They are blazes faster than a chainsaw, and you don't have to crawl around to take out the brush. You don't have to worry about getting your chain dull, either.
Weeds, vines, 1" saplings... They all go down with a single swing. I've cut down 8" trees with them, but that's a bit of a stretch.

Use this style for brush & small trees:
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NEVER waste your money on these unless you are trimming the bushes:
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GREAT for heavy weeds and thick grass, not so good for heavy underbrush:
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Just don't buy these at all:
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All they do is get dull immediately, and they can't be sharpened except with a hand file. And they don't cut worth a crap even when sharp.

bought a blade for a fence clearing job im doing, the customer does allot with his forester blade, says he likes it, I went with the 8" stihl chisel tooth blade, works good, slow on big stuff but this job is mostly 1.5" and smaller, so far so good

 

[gorman]

only difference is I can have the exact length I want, and a dead eye is more versatile, and cheaper, only a bit slower to tie, I trust my knot tying more than anyones splices

The time you save on blocking down wood is astonishing.

 

[Rabid K9]

The time you save on blocking down wood is astonishing.

Tell me about your Gehl? Looked closely at a 540 before buying my first Vermeer track.

And the Carlton stumper?

 

[ZinTrees]

The time you save on blocking down wood is astonishing.

im not looking for production, ill get myself killed, dont have the experience to get it done super fast, and I like to stop and plan stuff out while working, makes things go smoother

ive thought about all this already lol

 

[pdqdl]

bought a blade for a fence clearing job im doing, the customer does allot with his forester blade, says he likes it, I went with the 8" stihl chisel tooth blade, works good, slow on big stuff but this job is mostly 1.5" and smaller, so far so good

The problem with any chainsaw-style brush blade is that they get dull quickly. The whole idea behind them is usually to swing them around on the ground level and chop vegetation. This invariably means striking rocks or the earth, which, as we all know, quickly dulls the tiny teeth. The skillsaw-style blades aren't much different, except that they have more teeth to sharpen. The blades with broad cutting plates don't work like a saw, and their finish cut is not smooth at all. They operate like a hatchet or machete, making thousands of hacking blows per minute. When they get a bit dull, it doesn't seem to make any difference at all.

The blades that "saw" rather than "hack" the vegetation have another problem, too. They are mounted to a machine that simply doesn't deliver enough torque to cut as well as a chainsaw. Put ANY brush cutter with a saw blade on a 6" caliper tree, and it will quickly bind in the cut an prove to be useless. They cut 1" saplings because they have enough momentum to carry them through the cut.

On the other hand, both chainsaw & skillsaw styled blades leave a much cleaner cut than the "hack it down" varieties that I am fond of. Some situations do call for a better final cut on the vegetation stumps.

 

[treevet]

ill take a 25ft dead eye with double the MBS AND cheaper over your ultra slings any day

First of all not nearly double the mbs...probably comparing 5/8th to 3/4 which 3/4 is hard to handle...and knot.. But just wtf are you gonna do with that monstrosity? Bout the only thing you could use it for is a basal re direct on a 7' dia tree for rigging. You cannot chunk out pieces into it as the fkn tail is ridiculously long and how tf you gonna hitch it up? Living in a dream world and made a bad purchase....and you are just a kid who cuts lawn and clears an occasional fence line on the ground.

 

[ZinTrees]

You cannot chunk out pieces into it as the fkn tail is ridiculously long and how tf you gonna hitch it up

umm, cow hitch, and daisy chain the tail

 

[ZinTrees]

and you are just a kid who cuts lawn and clears an occasional fence line on the ground.

BS, I do prunes too

 

[ZinTrees]

before anyone here thinks I give a damn about their opinion, I dont, this is all stuff ive used extensively and know what works for me

 

[treevet]

umm, cow hitch, and daisy chain the tail

As opposed to just a simple choke, no tie, no untie, no 20 plus feet of tail? You gotta up your game on your fantasy tree work.

 

[treevet]

this is all stuff ive used extensively and know what works for me

no you haven't and no you don't

 

[ZinTrees]

no you haven't and no you don't

haha dave, you dont know a damn thing about what I know and have done