I think I posted the end results on another thread but here’s the stakesides on the truck 
What are you building with your milled wood? merged
- Thread starter stonykill
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There are over 800 species of Eucalyptus tree in Australia. The timber from Eucalyptus tree ranges in colour from "off white" to "deep chocolate brown" and many are deep red-brown. I terms of green hardness they range from about "oak like" to about twice that of dry Osage Orange. That block is Eucalyptus Callophya, which has the common name of Marri. It's on the softer side for a Eucalyptus species. There are many interesting features about Marri but my fave is freshly cut wood from a young tree smells like Corona beer. Old trees have lots of resin rings and pockets and smell very musty.
This is s shot of milling the Marri from which the block above came. "Flame or curl" as exhibited in parts of this tree is not very common and cannot be seen from outside the tree so when you strike it, its a double bonus. Also shown circled in black is a red resin pocket - not uncommon in small/young trees but very common in older trees.
I used the resin to mock up this photo to send to my BIL (the one who helps me make the BIL mill). He's always sending me photos of his surgical procedures, like the full length zipper staples he got from a back operation, so I thought it was time to pay him back. Were always exchange gory photos.
SawmillMan
Just Cutting Up
Great information! Thanks. Be careful there!!!
I have a number of friends and relatives who are into cooking so every now and then I raid the scaps pile and make these for birthday or just cos presents etc.
In case you don't know that tapered cylinder is a type of rolling pin, sometimes called a French rolling pin.
The wood is Pistachio and its surprising dense.
The spoons are made from face cuts cut out want a bandsaw and further shaped using a belt sander and an Arbortec mini carver.
In case you don't know that tapered cylinder is a type of rolling pin, sometimes called a French rolling pin.
The wood is Pistachio and its surprising dense.
The spoons are made from face cuts cut out want a bandsaw and further shaped using a belt sander and an Arbortec mini carver.
SawmillMan
Just Cutting Up
This is a really straightforward method for hanging floating shelves. I use it for hanging mantels as well.
The carcass is made of red oak with a continuous grain at the corners (cut from one board). Unnecessary, but fun. It could be made from oak plywood as well.
The shelf/mantel is hollow except for a few support members spaced appropriately. Also, these members do NOT traverse the full depth of the shelf. This allows the shelf support to be inset into the shelf carcass. Study the photo showing the back view.
The shelf support mechanism can be constructed of 3/4” material typically. I use poplar quite often as it is light and sufficiently strong.
Support arms should be cut 1/4” less than the depth of the opening in the shelf. This allows for easy installation and also the ability to place shims on the self supports in the event the shelf needs to be leveled. Arms are attached using pocket holes.
If a shim is required, use masking tape/blue painters tape to affix the shim.
The beauty of this method is that shelf supports can be constructed and placed on the wall easily by attaching the shelf support mechanism to studs/nailers with appropriate length screws.
This is our shelf…we can do anything we want to with it.
Once the shelf support is installed, slide the shelf on, check for level and adjust as necessary. Note: the shelf support mechanism should not be as long as the opening in the shelf to allow lateral adjustment.
A single screw can hold the shelf to the shelf support by screwing through the shelf bottom into a shelf support arm.
Enjoy creating your floating shelves without being restricted by various floating shelf mechanisms.
The carcass is made of red oak with a continuous grain at the corners (cut from one board). Unnecessary, but fun. It could be made from oak plywood as well.
The shelf/mantel is hollow except for a few support members spaced appropriately. Also, these members do NOT traverse the full depth of the shelf. This allows the shelf support to be inset into the shelf carcass. Study the photo showing the back view.
The shelf support mechanism can be constructed of 3/4” material typically. I use poplar quite often as it is light and sufficiently strong.
Support arms should be cut 1/4” less than the depth of the opening in the shelf. This allows for easy installation and also the ability to place shims on the self supports in the event the shelf needs to be leveled. Arms are attached using pocket holes.
If a shim is required, use masking tape/blue painters tape to affix the shim.
The beauty of this method is that shelf supports can be constructed and placed on the wall easily by attaching the shelf support mechanism to studs/nailers with appropriate length screws.
This is our shelf…we can do anything we want to with it.
Once the shelf support is installed, slide the shelf on, check for level and adjust as necessary. Note: the shelf support mechanism should not be as long as the opening in the shelf to allow lateral adjustment.
A single screw can hold the shelf to the shelf support by screwing through the shelf bottom into a shelf support arm.
Enjoy creating your floating shelves without being restricted by various floating shelf mechanisms.
Hardly "wood work", but I thought the North American forum members would like to see this anyway. My wife is into woollen sculptures and this is her latest creation. She asked me for a piece of wood with some bark on it to act as a base. What would have been sweet would have been maybe a piece of mesquite but the best I could come up with was this bit of Olive.
