What Did I Do Wrong

[pyromaniac guy]

or, more to the point, how do i fix this:

2 weeks ago i was running my 260 in our woods. the sprocket on my 16" bar froze up. when i took the B&C off the saw, i noticed i could move the sprocket with my scrench, but it would no longer freely roll.

so, i took that one off and set it to the side. i haven't had a chance to look at it yet, because i wanted to ask you guys how to fix it. i ordered 2 new 20" loops from baileys (there's a thread around here somewhere on it) and put on my 20" bar.

went back to the same woods today. same thing happened to my 20" froze up at the sprocket. both days, i probably only ran the saws 45 mins before it happened. (i know i didn't get through a full tank of fuel.) i had plenty of bar oil in the jug, and plenty on the bar.

both bars are stihl rollmatics. the woods i was cutting were mostly red oak, all hardwoods. the one thing that i think i could have screwed up on is i am still running winter bar oil. (the blue jug) could that be the problem? if it is, how do i clean the bar tips out? they don't have replaceable tips, and there is no grease hole.

i was thinking of using my air compressor and a small screwdriver to blow out the sprocket. is there an easier way? are my bars now shot due to negligence?

 

[Austin1]

I am no expert when it comes to matters like this I think that the odds are is sometimes you are going to get a bad nose bearing in a bar. I have seen it happen twice in my life. Those bearings are small and I like to grease them or soak the bar tip in oil before using a new bar. Are you going through a normal amount of oil with the saw right now? The one case I did see this was when I was working as a fire fighter north of Slave Lake Alberta back at camp one of the Guys put a new bar on a Husky and went to cut some fire wood for camp and the tip started smoking After about ten minutes of use and the tip was toast. Sorry I can't be of more help but it does happen you just get a bum tip.

 

[SawTroll]

..... i was thinking of using my air compressor and a small screwdriver to blow out the sprocket. is there an easier way? are my bars now shot due to negligence?

Most likely, it is small pieces of wood, that is locking it up.

If so, it works to force the sprocket around against a wooden surface, forceing it around with the shaft of a small screwdriver also works.

 

[nilzlofgren]

Most likely, it is small pieces of wood, that is locking it up.

If so, it works to force the sprocket around against a wooden surface, forceing it around with the shaft of a small screwdriver also works.

That has happened to me with small pieces of wood that wedge between the drive links and the sprocket. I just work the sprocket loose with the scrench, and it frees right up.

 

[Bowtie]

Are you sure you are running the right chain for that bar and sprocket?

 

[WRW]

Most likely, it is small pieces of wood, that is locking it up.

If so, it works to force the sprocket around against a wooden surface, forceing it around with the shaft of a small screwdriver also works.

Most likely. This is a good reason for blipping the throttle between cuts. Usually, once the sprocket is free enough to turn, the saw engine is able to free the sprocket quicker than going to the shop to clean it out.

 

[pyromaniac guy]

Are you sure you are running the right chain for that bar and sprocket?

yes. i was very particular about matching up the numbers...

 

[jhellwig]

Tighten you chain. If that picture is of it cold then there is to much sag in it. I learned that the hard way when going from a solid nose to a sprocket nose. To loose on the chain and it will fill with crap quickly.

 

[pyromaniac guy]

Tighten you chain. If that picture is of it cold then there is to much sag in it. I learned that the hard way when going from a solid nose to a sprocket nose. To loose on the chain and it will fill with crap quickly.

i never thought of that. after i get the bars cleaned out i will try that...

 

[Sprig]

Tighten you chain. If that picture is of it cold then there is to much sag in it. I learned that the hard way when going from a solid nose to a sprocket nose. To loose on the chain and it will fill with crap quickly.

Excellent point, especially with a new chain, it pays to keep an eye on the tension until it is broken in, sometimes every-other cut if need be. Don't be trying to get 'just one more afor I go', take the minute and snug it up, your saw will thank you, so will the bar as 'chain slap' will make short work of a decent bar perty quickly, an expensive lesson imo. Also, as several gents have mentioned in other threads, if its a new bar&chain please make sure the oiler holes are 1-correct, 2-not plugged up with paint. Keep yer grooves clean and have fun! :chainsawguy:

My worthless 0.02$ fer da afternoon.



Serge

 

[jhellwig]

i never thought of that. after i get the bars cleaned out i will try that...

Also make sure that it is tight after you get the chain warm. I think the no sag no drag rule is a good one to go by.

 

[keith c raymond]

I had the same thing happen to me with Oak,both red and white.Sometimes you have to give the throttle a blip or two to make sure it is clear.If you are not at full throttle coming out of the cut it will happen often.Keep at WOT and use a little finesse at the end of the cut , and it shouldnt happen .