What flipline? Need advice.

[Nailsbeats]

I use some rope fliplines, but would like to get a steelcore for chainsaw protection. I am thinking I should get 2 of them so I can double flip with the ultimate safety. My question is what diameter 1/2 or 5/8? What lengths? Should I get the Yald Maxi-flip or save the money and get the regular? I will get mechanical adjusters like the Petzl Macrograb, is this good or should I get something else like a Gibbs? Thanks in advance.

 

[OLD CHIPMONK]

either one would be good. We always used rope, but things are changing constantly. Grabs are a choice best left to the individual. Length that we use is 12 ft., seems to be sufficient or 18 ft. if you do a lot of big trees.

 

[safeT1st]

Flipline

Steel core fliplines are heavier than you might think . One 1/2 " used as a backup when cutting will suffice . I have enough gear strapped on when moving about and climbing to consider hauling two steel cores up a tree .

 

[John Paul Sanborn]

Steel core fliplines are heavier than you might think . One 1/2 " used as a backup when cutting will suffice . I have enough gear strapped on when moving about and climbing to consider hauling two steel cores up a tree .

I agree, if you think you need the safety of steel core, then use it as the top flipline, then have one from old climbing line as the bottom.

Much of the safety of steel is false, it will take a nick, but it is easy for a big saw to go through one in a heartbeat.

 

[KiwiTreeSteve]

Fliplines

Hey there, I'm currently studying Arboriculture, down here in New Zealand, and i read in your post, that you want a steel cored flip line, I'm under the opinion ( as are my tutors) that the benefits are really minimal, and as stated by others members they are heavy, I'm am also told that a sharp chain saw will have no problem cutting through a steel core.

as i say I'm not an expert, just a student, and would be interested in hearing others opinions.

thanks
Steve

 

[oldirty]

i run the steelcore. i have an 8ft that i wish was 10ft. so make sure you get a 10. 12 might be too long for you average work. it'll be in your way.

i also have an 18ft steelcore that i have used maybe 3 times. lol

is that double ended steelcore easier to use than that stupid 2n1 rope flip?


and to kiwi steve. i'll take the steelcore 7 out of 7 days a week in a flipline cutting contest verse the ropeflip. thanks though.

 

[reachtreeservi]

I use some rope fliplines, but would like to get a steelcore for chainsaw protection. I am thinking I should get 2 of them so I can double flip with the ultimate safety. My question is what diameter 1/2 or 5/8? What lengths? Should I get the Yald Maxi-flip or save the money and get the regular? I will get mechanical adjusters like the Petzl Macrograb, is this good or should I get something else like a Gibbs? Thanks in advance.

I run a 12 ft. 5/8 wirecore Nails, Mine is just the regular.
Here's a link for the cheapest source out there for one like mine but in 1/2 in..

http://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=6675

I've had this one a year and it's held up well.

I've looked at the yale maxi flip and it's a quality product, my next one will probably be a yale. If you're going to replace the flipline every year,
I don't think there's enough difference to justify the cost difference on the yale.

However, If you are going to use the flipline much longer then I could see the better construction (Flemish spliced) would be worth it.

Any of the grabs would be good as long as it's sized to the line. I used to use a Gibbs and really liked it, but all the petzl ones are great too.
I use a Ice Eye to Eye Prussic now, the ability to let out slack while under a load is the reason. I wouldn't go back to a grab.

I really don't think you need 2 wirecores. One regular lanyard and a wirecore is all I ever use . Or 1 wirecore and the climbing line for a 2nd lanyard.

Lanyard position is the key to safety. I always run my hand around the back of where I'm going to be cutting and make sure I'm not going to get into my lanyard.

 

[treeclimber jul]

very good post

Lanyard position is the key to safety. I always run my hand around the back of where I'm going to be cutting and make sure I'm not going to get into my lanyard.

That is what I do. cutting the lanyard is not an option.

 

[randyg]

Lanyard position is the key to safety. I always run my hand around the back of where I'm going to be cutting and make sure I'm not going to get into my lanyard.

Good habit: ALWAYS run hand around before EVERY cut.

Cam should be bolted and not just pinned if mechanical grab used.

Eye to eye prussick in say, 8mm will cut quicker than half inch climbing line, but on flip, it's usually in fairly safe spot at your hip. Second TIP sure would be handy in case of goof, yes?

 

[hammerlogging]

If you're going to get 2, I'd recommend 2 colors. The long ones are nice cause you can use em like a short redirect, almost like a toprope.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I just ordered a 10 foot 5/8" Maxi Flip with a Petzl Marcrograb. That should do. I also ordered my first Silky Sugoi, I am pumped. Thirdly, I ordered a micropully and stuff to use split tail method. I am movin up. Thanks for the help again guys.

 

[treemandan]

I think the steel is good for running up poles because it is stiff and easy to, well, flip. I do not have one.
I think the regular ones are easier to work in a canopy.
I nicked a lanyard once a very long time ago.
When I was told by the salesman that you couldn't cut through the steel I laughed. I can cut cable with a pair of scissors, a big pair, but scissors nonetheless.
I bet that on a big spar where you are using a big saw and you have all your weight pulling your steel core tight to the tree and that saw hits it that all you will think is" saw must of bound, cutting ok now" then you go down.
Burvol and his chain were quite inspiring. How about thread cable through some chain to keep it stiff for those big takedowns? I doubt you are going to cut through that with a saw.
By the way Burvol, I guess that the chain is still attached to you and your monster pruning saw when you cut. That is asking for trouble and any comments made by me or anyone else should have started on that note. I am sorry I didn't say anything sooner.

 

[Bermie]

I just ordered a 10 foot 5/8" Maxi Flip with a Petzl Marcrograb. That should do. I also ordered my first Silky Sugoi, I am pumped. Thirdly, I ordered a micropully and stuff to use split tail method. I am movin up. Thanks for the help again guys.

Sounds good!

It is recommended you have something in your wirecore setup that can be cut with a knife should the occasion arise you need to be rescued. A short strop between the macrograb and your carabiner is usually the spot. I use an eye to eye cord tied as a distel for my adjuster, so that's the bit that can be cut.

I'm a believer in a wirecore as the top tie in with the rope below when chunking down...I had an oops before I got one where the top I was taking out broke quicker than I anticipated, the tree rocked I grabbed with one hand and my saw ran down the trunk...juuust nicked the rope lanyard I had at the top, second tie in was at my feet, so it would have been...well, not nice.
A wire core is a bit more robust for an 'oops', won't save a full blown 'oh f$*&', so watch your positioning and lanyard location and always tie in twice !

 

[oldirty]

I just ordered a 10 foot 5/8" Maxi Flip with a Petzl Marcrograb. That should do. I also ordered my first Silky Sugoi, I am pumped. Thirdly, I ordered a micropully and stuff to use split tail method. I am movin up. Thanks for the help again guys.

oh boy nails.... you are leaving your old man's methods behind. he's gonna be pissed!! lol

kidding of course but its a nice evolution. thank him for the basics though.


stay safe.

 

[treemandan]

Sounds good!

It is recommended you have something in your wirecore setup that can be cut with a knife should the occasion arise you need to be rescued. A short strop between the macrograb and your carabiner is usually the spot. I use an eye to eye cord tied as a distel for my adjuster, so that's the bit that can be cut.

I'm a believer in a wirecore as the top tie in with the rope below when chunking down...I had an oops before I got one where the top I was taking out broke quicker than I anticipated, the tree rocked I grabbed with one hand and my saw ran down the trunk...juuust nicked the rope lanyard I had at the top, second tie in was at my feet, so it would have been...well, not nice.
A wire core is a bit more robust for an 'oops', won't save a full blown 'oh f$*&', so watch your positioning and lanyard location and always tie in twice !

That is a good idea, having little experience with steel fliplines I never thought of the rescue senerio. It takes a few minutes to cut cable with scissors. Most have bolt cutters on the truck but still, when seconds count...
What saw did you have your mishap with?

 

[pdqdl]

...I use a Ice Eye to Eye Prussic now...

I am not familiar with that. Is that a knot, or a device ?
(yes, I know what a prussic is.)

Educate me, please !

 

[Nailsbeats]

Quote: Treemandan
"How about thread cable through some chain to keep it stiff for those big takedowns?"



Dang, stole my idea again. I should have applied for a patent.

 

[Nailsbeats]

oh boy nails.... you are leaving your old man's methods behind. he's gonna be pissed!! lol

kidding of course but its a nice evolution. thank him for the basics though.


stay safe.

Hey, I can buy all the sh*t I want, @ 55 years old I bet he can still smoke me in the tree! That aint no sh*t either, he's a hell of a man. He aint about to climb different but I bet I can get him to strap on a Silky, give me time.

 

[reachtreeservi]

I am not familiar with that. Is that a knot, or a device ?
(yes, I know what a prussic is.)

Educate me, please !

Pdqdl, You are a ISA certified arborist and don't know what an Ice eye to eye is ?

Ice is a new prussic cord materiel that is available with or without spliced loops on the ends (eye splice) from sherriltree and other companies.
It has a melting temp. of 800 degrees.

A prussic cord that has eye splices on both ends is called an eye to eye prussic.

Cons :
They're expensive

Pros :
They provide a more streamlined prussic without bulky knots.
They are stronger than prussics with knots (spliced terminations retain 90 % or more of the cord strength)
No knot tying means no possible knot mistakes.

Eye to eyes are typically used with knots such as the Distel or Schwabish

 

[Magnum783]

Pdqdl, You are a ISA certified arborist and don't know what an Ice eye to eye is ?

Ice is a new prussic cord materiel that is available with or without spliced loops on the ends (eye splice) from sherriltree and other companies.
It has a melting temp. of 800 degrees.

A prussic cord that has eye splices on both ends is called an eye to eye prussic.

Cons :
They're expensive

Pros :
They provide a more streamlined prussic without bulky knots.
They are stronger than prussics with knots (spliced terminations retain 90 % or more of the cord strength)
No knot tying means no possible knot mistakes.

Eye to eyes are typically used with knots such as the Distel or Schwabish

I know Reach we have had our bouts previously but I do greatly agree with you on your many pros. Infact I think I have few more that you overlooked. No biggy I love eye to eyes.
More pros.
The knots they tie release and grab quickly
no need to worry about rolling out they can't
easy to use with a micro for slack tending
available in great cords like Ice

Nice work Reach
Jared