I have a package saw that is used for crosscutting dimensional lumber and for some reason the end cuts have become very wavy. I've tried just about everything to solve this problem and I just wanted to see what everybodys input is. Thanks!
What is causing this?
- Thread starter mpyoung33
- Start date
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wigglesworth
Booned
How is your bar rails? The chain will wander quite a bit with worn rails.
What's a "package saw", I keep thinking breakfast cereal package? :hmm3grin2orange:
Also, what do you means by "wavy" and "end cuts"?
Pictures would really help
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
BobL he has a vertical mill that's made buy L-M.
Here's a thread he made over in the chainsaw section.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/165476.htm
Here's a thread he made over in the chainsaw section.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/165476.htm
Thanks BB, I read that thread and the folks in the CSM have basically covered it.
Before saying anymore I would want to see close ups of the chain cutters and the bar groove.
cowboyvet
ArboristSite Operative
I used to be in charge of maintaining / fixing the big brother to your machine. Couple questions.
1) Did you get your bar fixed and set back to .63" on the rails?
2) Have you checked the thickness on your chains to see if they are still close to .63"?
3) In your video on your other post, you were taking off about a 1/4". If you start taking less than that, the waves will show.
4) Are any of the bundles your cutting frozen? Frozen wood used to cause all kinds of problems. (I was in Iowa at the time)
5) Proper chain sharping also makes a difference on the cut with these long bars.
6) have you played with the bar drop speed? Try slowing it down on the wood your having the wave problems with.
1) Did you get your bar fixed and set back to .63" on the rails?
2) Have you checked the thickness on your chains to see if they are still close to .63"?
3) In your video on your other post, you were taking off about a 1/4". If you start taking less than that, the waves will show.
4) Are any of the bundles your cutting frozen? Frozen wood used to cause all kinds of problems. (I was in Iowa at the time)
5) Proper chain sharping also makes a difference on the cut with these long bars.
6) have you played with the bar drop speed? Try slowing it down on the wood your having the wave problems with.
I just had this bar reconditioned because I thought the rails were a problem. It worked great for about a week and now we're back to cutting waves.
By wavy I mean the end cuts are not smooth like they should be. The ends of the lumber unit look like a ruffled potato chip if you can imagine that. I'd say some of the wave are atleast 1/32" from peak to valley.
YouTube - L-M Equipment Verticut 2000 cross cut unit saw.AVI‏
Here it is in action back when it actually made smooth cuts. This is actually video from the first day the saw was run.
1) The bar was reconditioned and set back to .063.
2) It was very tight at first but after about a week it has loosened up a bit. We bought brand new chain to run on the reconditioned bar.
3) The kerf of the chain is 3/8" so we always take off 1/4" or more.
4) We have been cutting some frozen bundles. Will that ware the bar rails?
5) The chain is straight from Carlton.
6) We've tried cutting super slow, medium, and fast but nothing makes a difference.
Today I put a new chain on and it cut waves in the first 8 units. The 9th unit started to cut a lot smoother and the units I cut after that were pretty smooth. Could it be the bar groove is loose to a certain point and as the bottom of the tie straps ware it allows the drive links to drop into the tighter spot of the groove? (Hope that makes sense to you).
Thanks for all the help!
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
Are you saying you are always cutting at least 5/8 off or 1/4?
The first cut is more like an inch+ becuase the units are not always square so you need to take atleast that much off to catch every board.
betterbuilt
I build stuff from milled slabs
Thanks for the clarification.
You are gonna need to post pictures of the chain and the bar grove. If you need some help, I'm more than happy to post them for you.
You are gonna need to post pictures of the chain and the bar grove. If you need some help, I'm more than happy to post them for you.
The tops of the bar rails should be dead flat - there should be no grooves on the rails.
We really need to see photos of the bar rails and the bottoms of the tie straps.
What cutting angle are the cutters supposed to have? Since a new chain was wavy but improved after 8 bundles, sounds like the chain is pulling side-to-side - maybe too aggressive until the chain dulls a little?
I'm using Carlton B3LM chain and I believe the angle is 30-35. I've tried Oregon 68LX chain before which I think is 25 degrees and it also made wavy cuts.
