What is the deal with Pine and Chainsaws?

[blovell863]

Please, please stop calling the chains blades. The proper terms are bar and chain.

LOL! Sorry about that. Now I know.

As far as the the oil consumption goes, it should be good. I fill up the oil and gas at the same time, and when I run out of fuel, there is probably 1/4 tank of oil leftover.

 

[crzybowhntr]

This !!!

"It's up to the operator to know if the chain is sharp "

Also the OP should try semi chisel chain if this is the case...

 

[Todd W]

Pine and Cedar are terrible for having sand/etc in the bark.

Sometimes I think I only get half way through bucking a cedar and the chain is shot!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Pine and Cedar are terrible for having sand/etc in the bark.

Sometimes I think I only get half way through bucking a cedar and the chain is shot!

That is the other information the operator needs to know, operator needs to know the conditions they are cutting in, there are good and then better options for chains to match the local conditions, even the way they are sharpened makes a difference. Chisel is great for clean wood, round filed is good and square filed better in clean green conditions but when it comes to gritty wood then semi chisel is better than chisel just because it will keep on cutting longer in dirty conditions. The bar and chain still needs a good supply of oil no matter what chain is used and the operator needs to keep an eye on that, it may require more frequent cleaning of the bar slot and the oil delivery holes, again due to the type of wood and the conditions one is cutting in.

 

[Old2stroke]

Talk to other people in the area who cut the same trees. An operator with more experience in these trees should be able to tell you if there is something unique to them.

 

[fearofpavement]

How low to the ground are you cutting the stumps off? If low, try cutting them off a foot or more above the ground and see if you have different results.

 

[Mattyo]

I still don't see an answer to the question of whether or not your are just felling, or felling and bucking 5-15 trees per chain.

again, waiting for a chain to go dull before sharpening it wears the chain faster. it means it'll need to be ground on more to get it back to sharp, which means that if the person grinding the chain goes to fast, it'll lose temper.

so, best to touch up the chain more often by hand, rather than go till its dull, OR, just swap it out before it gets dull, always best to cut with an optimal chain

 

[fearofpavement]

How low to the ground are you cutting the stumps off? If low, try cutting them off a foot or more above the ground and see if you have different results.

 

[rageej]

I wish I had time to come out there, I've been itching for some production cutting lately.

Some things to remember:

1) Most cutting and maintenance practices can be found in the manual specific to your chainsaw. Stihl and Husqvarna manuals are typically well written and worth a read for everyone, not just novices.

2) Your chainsaw, regardless of the brand or model, is designed to run out of fuel just before you run out of oil. Many saws have a screw valve adjuster which allows you to adjust your bar oil output depending on bar length. My point is bar length on smaller saws could possibly be a concern.

3) As mentioned many times before… dirt is your enemy! It is a far better practice to touch up a chain often as opposed to letting dull. Chain sharpening has been the topic of hundreds of threads and is valuable knowledge. Learn to sharpen your own chain by hand in the field. In this area most guys take multiple chains with them and swap out chains in the field and then touch up chains when they get back. Buy a Granberg or equivalent sharpening jig for when the teeth need re-profiled. Taking good care of your bars and chains will save you hundreds of dollars over time and help to make you more productive in the cut. Also as a side note, just because someone owns a saw shop and is willing to sharpen your chains for a fee does not guarantee they know what they are doing. The teeth of a chain are tempered. This temper can be lost when the tooth is overheated (typically when someone leaves the wheel in it).

PS… WELCOME! My name is ----- and I have CAD. It's been one year, four months since I last bought a chainsaw.


Sent using mental telepathy

 

[Del_]

Lots of good advice here and what I'm adding has likely been said before by others.

Make the felling cut as high off of the ground as possible. Lots of wind blown or water carried sand can be in the lower trunk bark. Leave these high cut stumps until last or don't cut them at all. Pine stumps don't regrow.

Do you see insect activity in the lower trunk?

Termites are bad in Florida and can carry lots of dirt high up into the trunk wood.

Always cut up wood known to be free from dirt first. Leave dirty wood until last or until just before you're going to the shop to get chains sharpened.

Lots of guys new to sawing end up with the bar and chain in the dirt and don't realize it. Don't be one of those guys!

Be very careful. Trees can hurt and kill.