What kind of wedge is used here?

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DeanBrown3D

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Another one from Dent's book is falling against the lean, using a pair of steel wedges to ram in as the back cut progresses, to straighten up the tree and allow it to fall in the opposite direction. My question is what kind of wedges are these and where can I get them? Or is he talking about simple steel splitting wedges?

Cheers

Dean
 
I hope you're not calling Dent stupid.

I've had times when its impossible to drive in a plastic wedge. Seems like a steelie and a sledge hammer would be better.
 
Hi Dean, interesting, steel wedges are totally prohibited for use here (B.C. home of the big trees) because of contact danger with chainsaws. Back in the old days when there were two man falling teams they used sledgehammers and 14" long slim steel wedges. Steel wedges for splitting firewood are have way to steep of an angle, they will be spit out. I bought some magnesium? wedges at a garage sale and used them to fall some birch leaners, I just beat the snot out of them with my 41/2lb. axe, trees went over. Pounding the snot out of wedges on other kinds of trees with questionable holding wood is just asking for the holding wood to snap and the tree to come over backwards. Falling against thier lean callls for common sense, you cannot get to carried away, sometimes even good falllers have to leave money trees cause its just not going to happen. In this case run up the tree and hang a rope. If you are determined to use steel wedges you will probably have to get some made, not hard to do by a shop. Slim wedges are easier to drive, copy a plastic falling, not bucking wedge.
 
Dean

We used steel weadges in the past,(before plastic),,, but my Dad did have one slung out of the cut once,,,, caught his shin real good!

To keep them from the chain, just make another cut under the back cut, about 3/4 of an inch or so, and drive your steel in there as the wood closes the slot so the chain cant get to the steel,,,, Plastic would be better, and stackable ones would get you the same lift.

I like having a pail full of oak weadges, just cut them from standing dead scrub oak and finish them on a belt sander,,,,, make them any thickness you want and thay sound cool.

http://www.zippyvideos.com/4172849182878216/fellingmpeg/


I would like to get a copy of Dents book, if anyone had one for sale?

Kevin
 
Kevin, clearance

Thanks for the help. Those are some neat ideas. Not sure what the difference is between a bucking wedge and a falling wedge, apart from size though. Is the angle different?

I've just seen steel-cored plastic wedges in Baileys, maybe they are worth a look.

Oh Kevin - Baileys also sells Dent's book. I'm still using mine:)
 
clearance said:
Hi Dean, interesting, steel wedges are totally prohibited for use here (B.C. home of the big trees) because of contact danger with chainsaws. Back in the old days when there were two man falling teams they used sledgehammers and 14" long slim steel wedges. Steel wedges for splitting firewood are have way to steep of an angle, they will be spit out. I bought some magnesium? wedges at a garage sale and used them to fall some birch leaners, I just beat the snot out of them with my 41/2lb. axe, trees went over. Pounding the snot out of wedges on other kinds of trees with questionable holding wood is just asking for the holding wood to snap and the tree to come over backwards. Falling against thier lean callls for common sense, you cannot get to carried away, sometimes even good falllers have to leave money trees cause its just not going to happen. In this case run up the tree and hang a rope. If you are determined to use steel wedges you will probably have to get some made, not hard to do by a shop. Slim wedges are easier to drive, copy a plastic falling, not bucking wedge.

I was in the market for some new steel splitting wedges last summer. Couldn't find any in my local shop. Stihl shop in Lewiston Id had what they called splitting wedges but they were very slim taper - more like a falling wedge (maybe a bit steeper). Since I already had 2 of them I passed.

Harry K
 
Kevin,
Bailey's has the book.

Dean,
Wedges are all about the same thickness at the head (give or take a little). It is the leingth of the wedge that determines the degree of angle.

Remember, Dent's book wasn't written recently. I first read it sometime in the mid 80's, and the book I read wasn't a new one. So a lot of stuff used in the book is no longer available. The book has some good info, but isn't written in stone.

Andy
 
I know Baileys has those yellow wedges with the groves in them for stability when stacking. I have never used them so cant really say "ya" or "na" but you could give them a try.
 
Yes, you can stack wedges, falling wedges only, be real carefull doing this, sometimes they spit out, like a bullet. Again, within reason. Stacking increases the angle, so this is why they are more likely to spit than a single wedge. It is also a good idea to put two wedges close to the saw (holding wood) so that if the wedges you are lifting the tree with spit out, the saw wont get pinched and you can start again. If the saw gets pinched because you misjudged the lean and didn't set a wedge take your axe and cut down to the backcut from above untill there is room to stick in a wedge.
 
wedges

I had a situation recently where I couldn't get a plastic wedge in and used a hand axe (driven in by sledge) as a wedge to open it up enough to get the plastic ones in.
 
Everyone that uses wedges needs to try those hard wedges of baileys. That is all that I use now. They are just like regular wedges but they have a steel insert on the driving face. You can really lift and move alot of weight and lean. They are a little more pricey but I def. won't buy anything else.

Mike
 
I used to use any wedge before, with those you get steel driving power without the chain damage lol. I haved use steel wedges also. Not really the best because of the steep taper that they have, they don't drive very well, and they take alot of power to hit them. Newfie, have had a really heavy tree, and when you hit the wedge, you bust it in half? I have with a few trees, I don't know if the impact and the fact that the tree doesn't move, but I broke a new wedge like that and the wedge was only sticking out about an inch.

mike
 
I 've never busted one in half. They usually come shooting out of the back cut first. Netree taught me to be a little more patient when wedging back over and go slow and allow the top to catch up. A lot less pounding and bashing that way. But sometimes you just have to wail the b!tch!
 
You are right with the slow approach. There is a rhythmn to it, and every tree has a different one. I noticed that awhile ago. When I broke those wedges, I wasn't pounding like hell, I was just hitting it and one time it didn't move and it just broke. I noticed if you go like hell, that is when you might be eating a wedge.lol.
 
wedges

Kate Butler said:
I had a situation recently where I couldn't get a plastic wedge in and used a hand axe (driven in by sledge) as a wedge to open it up enough to get the plastic ones in.

That is why you should have a backup saw. Plunge cut in the closed kerf to start a wedge. You are taking a big risk pounding on an axe as they are not designed to be used as a wedge. Wrong temper of the metal in the axe to be used as a wedge.
 
Kate, do what I said earlier when your saw gets pinched because you didn't put in a wedge. Take your axe and cut down onto the backcut, where you want to put your wedge, a gap will be made and you can get it started. Its always good to have another saw, just don't need it to do this. Have to have an axe anyways when you are falling, your spare saw might be in the truck, why walk for it.
 
I open face and wedge. I never cut in from the back of the cut. I used to do that then went to game of logging since then I do it sorren's way. I like the safety.
 
wedges

Clearance & Geofore, there was a backup saw - the problem was that the wind had picked up and was threatening to put the tree on a building in seconds. There was no time to get the other saw. It was a down & dirty "fix", but it worked.
 

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