What lathe?

[blsnelling]

Nope go for it, just make sure you get the AXA size. They work well, you may want to order a few extra holders, I ended up picking up a few more off ebay.

Out of stock

 

[blsnelling]

Is a Phase II QCTP a better unit? Buy 251-100 Phase II Quick-Change Tool Post Sets from UseEnco

 

[srcarr52]

Is a Phase II QCTP a better unit? Buy 251-100 Phase II Quick-Change Tool Post Sets from UseEnco

I think you'll be happier with the PhaseII Chinese QCTP than the no name Chinese one. Also AXA size QCTP go for pretty cheap on eBay. Alloris or Dorian brands are the best quality.

Aloris AXA Quick Change Tool Post with Holders, knurl, cutoff, threader ,... | eBay

 

[Tzed250]

Is a Phase II QCTP a better unit? Buy 251-100 Phase II Quick-Change Tool Post Sets from UseEnco

Looks better to me.

 

[srcarr52]

Brad, the 251-111 is the wedge post and is even cheaper.

Buy 251-111 Phase II Quick-Change Tool Post Sets from UseEnco

 

[blsnelling]

Brad, the 251-111 is the wedge post and is even cheaper.

Buy 251-111 Phase II Quick-Change Tool Post Sets from UseEnco

Thank you. I want the wedge type and didn't realize the other wasn't.

 

[Jim Timber]

It depends on the type of insert. A CCGT 32.52 has a really sharp edge and can take a pretty small cut contrary to what has been said on this thread.

Here is one taking 0.001" cut. Sorry I had to stop the cut to take the picture for fear of crashing waiting for the iPhone to snap the picture. It was taking tiny curls off but they blow away as soon as they break off.

These inserts are supposed to be for aluminum and cast steel but I find they work well on finish cuts for most steel.

You have WAY too much stick out on that holder.

Lathes don't "cut" - they shear the metal. As someone else said, it happens at a point above the cutter, even with razor sharp HSS. It's a geometry issue with how the work interfaces with the cutter, has nothing to do with the sharpness of the tool.

 

[srcarr52]

You have WAY too much stick out on that holder.

Lathes don't "cut" - they shear the metal. As someone else said, it happens at a point above the cutter, even with razor sharp HSS. It's a geometry issue with how the work interfaces with the cutter, has nothing to do with the sharpness of the tool.

Yeah, it's far out there, but you can get away with it when you are cutting something 3/8" thick like I am. It's far out so I can pull the tool holder off the toolpost and put the tailstock past it to thread that little spar without having to back the cross way out. Saves some time when making 10 of those little bastards. What you can't see is I have a dial indicator on the front side of the toolpost so I can drop the tool back in and cut the next part without measuring. Using this method they were all within 0.001" on the diameter.

 

[blsnelling]

I really liked the Phase II one but couldn't pass up the price on this one. It is a wedge type for only $107! I ordered it last night and it's already shipped. Quick Change Tool Post Set, AXA:Amazon:Home Improvement

 

[Lakeside53]

When you get it, take the tool post apart and clean out the old pork fat used to "lubricate" the assembly grit. Check for burrs and for whatever shouldn't be in there. Just for grins I took one apart over a clean container of solvent. LOL... you can't believe the carp that I collected. The center post hole in mine looked like it was bored by and hand drill, with a busted drill bit. After a little hand work to beburr the worm it worked fine.

BTW, the Knurler they include with the set is is pretty much useless.

 

[Lakeside53]

The high positive rake inserts will take a very small DOC, but they are the exception rather than the rule in indexable carbide.

And... the issue will often be surface finish quality. Even though some inserts can skim a thou, most don't realize that the minimum DOC is probably 2-3 in soft steel. 1 thou may seem like a good measurement target, but if you are fitting bearings or making sliding shafts, that's like a mile, particularly if you are measuring against a 1-2 thou "rough" surface". If I miss a target measurement, emery paper (careful!) is a great way to sneak on on a final (external) fit. I have on occasion used razor sharp aluminum cutting inserts on steel, but eventually regret it when yet another insert edge crumples way. It's a bit like using $5 bills to light the BBQ - sure they work, but...:msp_wink:

For those with light lathes, get some 12L14 steel for turning projects. It contains a small amount of lead and turns like butter. You can skim very small amounts and still have a mirror finish. It was once referred to to as "screw cutter steel"

 

[FATGUY]

And... the issue will often be surface finish quality. Even though some inserts can skim a thou, most don't realize that the minimum DOC is probably 2-3 in soft steel. 1 thou may seem like a good measurement target, but if you are fitting bearings or making sliding shafts, that's like a mile, particularly if you are measuring against a 1-2 thou "rough" surface". If I miss a target measurement, emery paper (careful!) is a great way to sneak on on a final (external) fit. I have on occasion used razor sharp aluminum cutting inserts on steel, but eventually regret it when yet another insert edge crumples way. It's a bit like using $5 bills to light the BBQ - sure they work, but...:msp_wink:

For those with light lathes, get some 12L14 steel for turning projects. It contains a small amount of lead and turns like butter. You can skim very small amounts and still have a mirror finish. It was once referred to to as "screw cutter steel"

Bingo.

 

[belgian]

For those with light lathes, get some 12L14 steel for turning projects. It contains a small amount of lead and turns like butter. You can skim very small amounts and still have a mirror finish. It was once referred to to as "screw cutter steel"

I have been following this thread with great interest ; not only because I acquired a small lathe lately myself, but I also sell german bar peeling machines used in the bright steel industry for a living. Bar peeling lines remove the outer skin of rolled bars, to ensure that the surface is free of microcracks and decarburisation zone ; in fact they are centerless bar turners that use typically a tooling head with 4 carbide cutters and hence have a high output, while achieving diameter tolerances typically up to IT9.

The bright steel industry uses a multitude of steel grades, all the way up to Ni-based alloys and Titanium for a wide variety of industries and applications. As Lake already indicated, each material has its own tooling properties and requires its own set of carbide cutters and machine settings (rpm, linear speed).

12L14 is designed as free cutting steel, and because of its lead content, very suitable and popular for free cutting or machining on a lathe. Good advice Lake (as usual, hehe) :msp_wink:

 

[Tzed250]

Boring inserts like the CCMT have an ideal DOC for a finishing cut, many times around 200 microns-.008" Anything less and you risk moving the cutting zone to close to the edge resulting in tearing or pushing.

 

[Nitroman]

I have been looking at boring bars using the CCMT inserts, but lean toward the HSS old-fashioned kind simply because all I have to do is grind a new edge rather than send out inserts to be reconditioned.

There are so many choices out there it is almost ridiculous.

 

[Tzed250]

I have been looking at boring bars using the CCMT inserts, but lean toward the HSS old-fashioned kind simply because all I have to do is grind a new edge rather than send out inserts to be reconditioned.

There are so many choices out there it is almost ridiculous.

For non-production machining, HSS is excellent tooling. If you use a chainsaw, you should know how to sharpen chain. If you run a lathe you should know how to sharpen a cutting tool.

 

[Stihl 041S]

For non-production machining, HSS is excellent tooling. If you use a chainsaw, you should know how to sharpen chain. If you run a lathe you should know how to sharpen a cutting tool.

Agree totally.

When I started in the tool and die shop, you started on the Hardinge Chucker.

You had to fill, and I mean fill, drawers with progressive draw die blanks.

Boring as the devil.

You got off when the drawers were full.

You learned to sharpen tools better. Avoid extra steps.

 

[Lakeside53]

One thing nobody has posted... grinding carbide is a great way to shorten your life. If you do grind it, do it outside AND wear a respirator. If you get carbide binder dust in your shop you cannot easily get rid of it, but it will find you when (if) you clean up.

 

[Lakeside53]

For non-production machining, HSS is excellent tooling. If you use a chainsaw, you should know how to sharpen chain. If you run a lathe you should know how to sharpen a cutting tool.

Amen!

 

[Stihl 041S]

One thing nobody has posted... grinding carbide is a great way to shorten your life. If you do grind it, do it outside AND wear a respirator. If you get carbide binder dust in your ship you cannot easily get rid of it, but it will find you when (if) you clean up.

Good point Andy.

I grind it wet. Nasty and dirty and gross. But keeps it out of your nose!