buyer was really happy finding such a minty 9in Southbend .. it was the compact model with factory cast legs. pretty darn important for folks with limited space. not everyone has room for a heavy 10...
What lathe?
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buyer was really happy finding such a minty 9in Southbend .. it was the compact model with factory cast legs. pretty darn important for folks with limited space. not everyone has room for a heavy 10...
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
That small spindle hole seems to be the biggest choke point with "hobbyist" lathes.
I always thought that something with a removable gap bed that could....
swing a standard car rim in the gap (used to be 15"dia, not sure nowdays), had a 3"+ spindle bore and around 5' betwixt centers
would be a darn handy speced machine in a home shop.
Tooling cost, ohhh yeah, interesting how much thicker that part of the catalog is.
couple of needless pics of one of the largest I ever got to run, with me for scale.
They only had a couple in that size when I worked for them (late '80s).
Company grew over the years and then most of their type work went offshore.
I just happened to notice the auction (the used PC in front of me was all that was in my budget)
edit: NO way would I have had hair that long in a shop either!
I always thought that something with a removable gap bed that could....
swing a standard car rim in the gap (used to be 15"dia, not sure nowdays), had a 3"+ spindle bore and around 5' betwixt centers
would be a darn handy speced machine in a home shop.
Tooling cost, ohhh yeah, interesting how much thicker that part of the catalog is.
couple of needless pics of one of the largest I ever got to run, with me for scale.
They only had a couple in that size when I worked for them (late '80s).
Company grew over the years and then most of their type work went offshore.
I just happened to notice the auction (the used PC in front of me was all that was in my budget)
edit: NO way would I have had hair that long in a shop either!
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Some of the heavy tens were on a smaller cabinet. I don't think there's really that much difference in the footprint. The UD cabinet has a couple of extra inches on each end, but otherwise it's no bigger, especially without the extra shaft/pulleys hanging out the back.
I'd go for 15" swing and a 3" bore. Don't care much for the gap beds though. Nobody ever puts them back in right or clean. :msp_mad:
We've got one almost that size at work. Bed length is a little shorter, swing is probably a couple of inches less. I hear that there's a shop not far from where I work that has an old manual with a 10 foot faceplate on it..... One local company has a machine(not sure if it's a boring or turning machine) large enough that you ride a carriage above the cutting tool.
just looked up pictures of SB heavy 10 .. really surprised to see foot print is not that big
yes I'd like to have a larger spindle on 9in SB .. but after many years of searching. finally have assembled a decent amount of tooling. don't think I'll be switching anytime soon ..
yes I'd like to have a larger spindle on 9in SB .. but after many years of searching. finally have assembled a decent amount of tooling. don't think I'll be switching anytime soon ..
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Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
A heavy 10 like that would be sweet! 
During WW II the government bought a lot of parts from Mom&Pop shops.
Many built on small SB lathes.
They issued sent out a paper on how to increase rigidity.
By attaching the lathe to a concrete slab or I beam there was less vibration and flex.
The shops were able to hold much better tolerances.
I'll see if I can find it.
I think I've posted it be before, maybe in this thread.
Thank heaven memory is the first to go. Lol
Many built on small SB lathes.
They issued sent out a paper on how to increase rigidity.
By attaching the lathe to a concrete slab or I beam there was less vibration and flex.
The shops were able to hold much better tolerances.
I'll see if I can find it.
I think I've posted it be before, maybe in this thread.
Thank heaven memory is the first to go. Lol
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machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
just looked up pictures of SB heavy 10 .. really surprised to see foot print is not that big
yes I'd like to have a larger spindle on 9in SB .. but after many years of searching. finally have assembled a decent amount of tooling. don't think I'll be switching anytime soon ..
Mine is on the UD cabinet with drawers. Lots of parts are interchangeable between the 9" and 10" SB lathes...
Ole sheemy made parts made on a Shipley The ole engines still run today
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
dozerdan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is that a Dorian tool post? I picked up one a while back for my lathe. I just hated paying more for the post and the holder then I paid for the lathe. I almost bought a new import but I just couldn't talk myself into one. I am glad that I bought the Dorian.
Later
Dan
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I had an import wedge type and I hated it. It would take 3/4 of a turn before it felt like it locked down. I picked that Dorian Super toolpost of the bay about a month ago. It was all rusty so no one was bidding on it. Turns out it was just shelf rust and it was brand new, still had the plastic on the nameplate. I got it for $150. I'm yet to use it with my boring bar but I hope it fixes the chattering problem I had.
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
srcarr52-What kind of situation are you getting the chatter under?
Is the tool holder in good condition and supporting the boring bar fully?
I'll assume it's small~ish hole, since we're on a chainsaw thread
and ask if there's any room to add some sort of damper to it.
funny what works for killing squeals.
any way to wrap something around the workpiece and or the boring bar ?
Can be funny what will choke of a resonance.
have even seen a 2x6 with scrap steel hung on it, leaned across the backside of a turning piece.
I had an asphalt roller drum that was something like 30" dia, 60" long 1/2" wall thickness
It had a couple of round plates welded inside maybe a foot in from ends (exact numbers are fading from me)
as one could guess those were prone to ringing like a bell when you turning the o.d.
I ended up rolling a ring from something like 1/2x3 flatbar and then wrapping the o.d. of it
with some heavy rubber (prob 5/8 thick same width as ring). welded up some spacer blocks
with tubes at each end of the ring on i.d., then a rig up from acme rod and nuts to spread it.
sorta like an inside out reverse hose clamp.
would slip this inside the tailstock end of the roll (before hoisting it to the lathe)
and turn the acme "bolt" to expand the ring in the roll. stopped all that ringing and chatter.
before hand, the prior operator had been trying to use a sharp point tool and a really slow feed
to suppress the problem. That issue and some other problems with getting a roll turned
(both ends faced, bout 3/4" long taper to blend o.d. to ends )
was taking a full day typically and operator had to stand at the lathe the whole time
for worries of tool breakage and dealing with that easter basket of shavings that hot rolled
is so good for at producing from flat brazed carbide, hand ground tools.
after the adding damper ring , I could go to insert (titanium nitride coated) tooling
with chip breaking shapes. etc... when most of the troubles were worked out
I was able to get *average* turning time to under 2 hrs.
Is the tool holder in good condition and supporting the boring bar fully?
I'll assume it's small~ish hole, since we're on a chainsaw thread
and ask if there's any room to add some sort of damper to it.
funny what works for killing squeals.
any way to wrap something around the workpiece and or the boring bar ?
Can be funny what will choke of a resonance.
have even seen a 2x6 with scrap steel hung on it, leaned across the backside of a turning piece.
I had an asphalt roller drum that was something like 30" dia, 60" long 1/2" wall thickness
It had a couple of round plates welded inside maybe a foot in from ends (exact numbers are fading from me)
as one could guess those were prone to ringing like a bell when you turning the o.d.
I ended up rolling a ring from something like 1/2x3 flatbar and then wrapping the o.d. of it
with some heavy rubber (prob 5/8 thick same width as ring). welded up some spacer blocks
with tubes at each end of the ring on i.d., then a rig up from acme rod and nuts to spread it.
sorta like an inside out reverse hose clamp.
would slip this inside the tailstock end of the roll (before hoisting it to the lathe)
and turn the acme "bolt" to expand the ring in the roll. stopped all that ringing and chatter.
before hand, the prior operator had been trying to use a sharp point tool and a really slow feed
to suppress the problem. That issue and some other problems with getting a roll turned
(both ends faced, bout 3/4" long taper to blend o.d. to ends )
was taking a full day typically and operator had to stand at the lathe the whole time
for worries of tool breakage and dealing with that easter basket of shavings that hot rolled
is so good for at producing from flat brazed carbide, hand ground tools.
after the adding damper ring , I could go to insert (titanium nitride coated) tooling
with chip breaking shapes. etc... when most of the troubles were worked out
I was able to get *average* turning time to under 2 hrs.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
1/2" carbide boring bar, hung out 4.5" to cut squish bands. I don't have too much of a problem unless it's a AM cylinder with a lot of NiCaSil over plating in the chamber... then it rings. It shouldn't have this problem though and I think it was because the knock off wedge toolpost not seating the tool holder well. Also my cross slide gip was a little loose. I should have it sorted now. We'll see on the next squish band I cut.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I've started using a very aggressive grind on my HSS cutter to get through that plating. It will dull quickly but normally makes it through the plating before I have to change cutters.
I also use a 3/4" bar.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I think I'm going to look for a 5/8" carbide boring bar and use some positive rake inserts if I still have problems. It'd be really nice to get a through coolant bar and just blow air through it to clear the chips out of the cylinder.
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
how are your clearance angles on the carbide?
if it's pretty close to parallel with the roof of the comb chamber
or just the direction of feed/travel , it'll be more prone to chatter.
looking from top down in my quick poor sketch,
the area pointed to for clearance is the first area of concern.
need to have some relief there to not promote chatter when you are facing the chamber.
edit: also you can just run the bar with cutting face down
and bore from what we would think of as the back side of the hole.
reverse your spindle rotation of course.
The chips can tend to drop away better sometimes like this and not be so bad to foul
the tool , thus scratching up the part.
2nd edit: ditto on the heavier bar.
you can't hardly go wrong with using the thickest bar that you can get in there
while still haveing the cutter geometry needed for the material.
if it's pretty close to parallel with the roof of the comb chamber
or just the direction of feed/travel , it'll be more prone to chatter.
looking from top down in my quick poor sketch,
the area pointed to for clearance is the first area of concern.
need to have some relief there to not promote chatter when you are facing the chamber.
edit: also you can just run the bar with cutting face down
and bore from what we would think of as the back side of the hole.
reverse your spindle rotation of course.
The chips can tend to drop away better sometimes like this and not be so bad to foul
the tool , thus scratching up the part.
2nd edit: ditto on the heavier bar.
you can't hardly go wrong with using the thickest bar that you can get in there
while still haveing the cutter geometry needed for the material.
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srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
The clearance angle is pretty tight since I cut the squish at 2deg and I'm using a triangular insert bar.
Good idea about flipping the bar over and running it on the backside. I wouldn't have to reverse the rotation though.
thomas1
sodium pentothal
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Any benefit to taking the grinder to the combustion chamber? Just giving yourself enough of a starting point to get under the plating?
LegDeLimber
Addicted to ArboristSite
Rotation reverse .... ah yes, just a Duh moment here for me.
lack of sleep & pain meds aint helping, I'll be glad to get things squared away somewhat
(late summer probably) and get the knee work done.
lack of sleep & pain meds aint helping, I'll be glad to get things squared away somewhat
(late summer probably) and get the knee work done.
