What length bar is best for dropping a 50" diameter tree?

[TreeandLand]

I will be dropping a very big pine, tensioned with a line to the truck of course. My Husky 372 has a 20" bar, and so far I haven't needed anything longer. But with a 50" diameter trunk, the face cut and the back cut, I'll be making a 10" hinge, which we don't want. What is a good length bar for a job like this? Thanks.

 

[RandyMac]

28" to 30"

 

[BlackOakTreeServ]

I will be dropping a very big pine, tensioned with a line to the truck of course. My Husky 372 has a 20" bar, and so far I haven't needed anything longer. But with a 50" diameter trunk, the face cut and the back cut, I'll be making a 10" hinge, which we don't want. What is a good length bar for a job like this? Thanks.

A 50" bar will work ..lol...had to say it

I have a 42" on my 660 with FULL SKIP chain, which does a great job on big stuff, but you could probly get away with a 36" bar to get that big boy down, mabey smaller with a bit more work, depends on your skill level.

 

[tree md]

I use a 36" on my 660 for trees that size.

 

[RandyMac]

Bigger saws for bigger trees makes sense, you will get no argument from me. However, if you don't have 90cc or better, a five cube saw with a bar at least 28 inches of bar will work. Can you match your cuts?

Five cube, 60" Pine.

 

[CNBTreeTrimming]

A 50" bar will work ..lol...had to say it

I have a 42" on my 660 with FULL SKIP chain, which does a great job on big stuff, but you could probly get away with a 36" bar to get that big boy down, mabey smaller with a bit more work, depends on your skill level.

Agreed. This is my setup as well.

 

[DavdH]

36"

 

[TreeandLand]

A 50" bar will work ..lol...had to say it

I have a 42" on my 660 with FULL SKIP chain, which does a great job on big stuff, but you could probly get away with a 36" bar to get that big boy down, mabey smaller with a bit more work, depends on your skill level.

My saw is 71cc, if a 36" bar is too much for it to power, what is a good compromise? Also, what does full skip chain look like....I've never bought it.

 

[tree md]

You should be good up to a 32" bar with that saw I believe. A 30" would run better on it though and should be adequate for that cut.

 

[BlackOakTreeServ]

My saw is 71cc, if a 36" bar is too much for it to power, what is a good compromise? Also, what does full skip chain look like....I've never bought it.

I run a 32" bar on my stihl ms 440 70.7cc and it pulls it good, but wouldnt go bigger.

A full skip is minus a cutter every 2 links for better chip discharge in big wood...recomended on long guide bars 28" and bigger.

If you own your tree service it would pay off in the long run to get 90cc or bigger saw with long bar...it would only take a big tree or two, to pay it off.

 

[the Aerialist]

Get a bigger saw with a bigger bar ...

I have a pair of 122cc 084s and a 42" bar that I use mostly for stump cuts. Running a 404 skip chain on it helps quite a bit when in full contact with the wood. Makes it seem like a much smaller bar. I also have a 460 Mag that I run a 32" bar, also with a skip chain, that I use in big wood for the felling cuts. It weighs about half of the 084 and actually cuts faster than the bigger saw, plus I can actually pick it up for the cuts.

 

[Bigus Termitius]

I have a pair of 122cc 084s and a 42" bar that I use mostly for stump cuts. Running a 404 skip chain on it helps quite a bit when in full contact with the wood. Makes it seem like a much smaller bar. I also have a 460 Mag that I run a 32" bar, also with a skip chain, that I use in big wood for the felling cuts. It weighs about half of the 084 and actually cuts faster than the bigger saw, plus I can actually pick it up for the cuts.

If he can't handle this tree with a 372 and a 32" bar, a bigger saw and bar is not the solution.

In fact, if you haven't the skills to get it done with a 32", a 42" is likely to only make matters worse. Even if I had a bigger saw than the 372, I wouldn't go over 36" anyway, and would probably prefer a 32".

 

[ForTheArborist]

Yeah, no more than 32" on the 372. As long as you're cutting to the middle from the left and right side.

The crafty me could drop that tree with the 20" and a truck. Take absolute caution if you were to give that a try. Some people are just shooting themselves in the back or other people by trying some of the stuff only some people in the world are capable of.

 

[r&r]

You could plunge cut into your notch first then make your other cuts and remove enough fiber to get the tree down with a 20" bar. But come on you've got an excuse to buy a longer bar better take it.

 

[Tree Pig]

Yeah, no more than 32" on the 372. As long as you're cutting to the middle from the left and right side.

The crafty me could drop that tree with the 20" and a truck. Take absolute caution if you were to give that a try. Some people are just shooting themselves in the back or other people by trying some of the stuff only some people in the world are capable of.

I just have to say this

If you have any idea what your talking about, your not very good at putting it in words.

Just my opinion

 

[Sunrise Guy]

I just have to say this

If you have any idea what your talking about, your not very good at putting it in words.

Just my opinion

Seemed clear enough, to me.

Note: you're=you are, your=possessive adjective. If you want to complain about the clarity of posts, in here, you might want to make sure that you strive for grammatical clarity, as well.

 

[Tree Pig]

Seemed clear enough, to me.

Note: you're=you are, your=possessive adjective. If you want to complain about the clarity of posts, in here, you might want to make sure that you strive for grammatical clarity, as well.

Well I still am not 100% sure what he was saying but I do see my mistake thanks for your :msp_rolleyes:correction. Your/you're being one of the more common grammar errors I am sure most understand the intended statement.

Yeah, no more than 32" on the 372. As long as you're cutting to the middle from the left and right side.

Lets start with the above statement (not going in to the rest of the jibber jabber of that post)... So when you are dropping a large tree (wider then bar length) you cut from the outside edge and in towards the middle of the tree? Then again maybe I misunderstood what he meant since he did not explain clearly what he was describing. Hence my reply to his post. I am not trying to bust balls just for the fun of it. I also was not complaining about his grammar. I was posting my grammatically incorrect reply because though I am pretty sure I know what he meant, his advice may not be as clear to everyone that reads it.

You have to remember not everyone in here that reads this stuff has an extensive knowledge base. So when you attempt to give advice, it should be as clear and concise at possible. Otherwise someone may misinterpret such advice and end up getting hurt.

 

[newmexico]

pictures

I'm not real good at drawing things and these aren't perfect, or even perfectly to scale. but they are pretty close.

I tried to make a little allowance for dawgs. but probably isn't exactly right.

one picture is what could be done with a twenty inch bar without getting highly creative and notching the backside of the tree.

the other is of a 32 inch bar with a bore cut behind your holding wood and walking the powerhead around the backcut.-- just one way it could be done, but for sure the easiest to draw.

I wouldn't want to try a fifty inch tree with a 20 inch bar. A twenty-eight could do it, but a 32 in my mind would be the best length- realativly readily available and not so long that it doesn't work for everything else you need to do once the tree's on the ground.

View attachment 194775View attachment 194776

pologies for not having the time to figure out how to insert the actual images into this post. gonna have to figure that out again some other time.

 

[robfromaz1977]

Here ya go NM.

 

[jefflovstrom]

If you know how, a 'coos bay' could work well.
Jeff