Any chain can be aggressive: it’s not the brand, it’s how it is raised. The parents have a lot to do with it.
Philbert
Philbert
I should have read it more carefully.The low-kickback bumpers do not prevent the cutters from biting into the wood, they reduce the chance of digging in too deeply, or of snagging another object.
They were originally designed to ‘full in’ The spaces between cutters, when cutting very small diameter branches. The reduced kickback feature was an unintended benefit.
They do reduce the efficiency of bore / plunge cutting, but it can be done.
Philbert
Maybe for carving? Fewer lines/furrows/whatever?Never seen one would not use one
what about those errors? Could you share your ideas in that post?There are some errors in your other post about spur vs rim.
So if the OP is a bot, & given the posts being made are clearly aimed at educating people (& said "aim" is a average at best)... can we get an AS representative to look into it as this would reflect pretty badly on the site, especially as the OP is a "sponsor"You guys are talking to an AI bot. It’s learning from your posts.
It’s kinda scary and interesting all at the same time.
Well that's a good thing because based on your original post, you got LOTS of learn'n to do.I am a sharer and a learner as well
I take my rakers down to a certian height depending on what type of wood im cutting. I usually have sodtwood chains ,and hardwood chains. But obviously as you sharpen a chain and the tooth height lowers you have to take the rakers down to compensate. I want my saw to do the work,but dont want to overwork my saw. I do like those big curlies coming out of the back. Lol. My two centsThe first thing to be clear about is what is meant by "Aggressive".
My meaning is the maximum depth cutters penetrate into the wood and pull out a decent size chip - not powder.
Sharpness of cutter is only one parameter
The others factors are the top plate cutting angle and the depth of the rakers.
Cutter edges can be as sharp as razors but if the top plate filing angle is too steep and the raker depths are too shallow then the chain simply won't cut very efficiently.
Once the top plate cutting angle is optimised for longevity/penetration (too much hook will penetrate more, but go blunt quicker) the ultimate arbiters of chain aggressivity are then down to raker depthss. High rakers will make loads of dust and cut slowly. Lowering rakers should make more chips up to a point when rakers that a far too low will stall the saw.
The critical parameter is the raker angle, this should be such to suit the powerhead/wood type and size/bar length/chain cutter sequence etc
If you want more info on this maybe check out this post.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/cs-milling-101-hints-tips-and-tricks.93458/page-6#post-4107285
addiction to drugs or menopause if its oregon brandWhat Makes A Chainsaw Chain Aggressive?
Genetics.
Nailed it. You cheap Charlie you no pay we no give info!Yeah is just getting you guy's to proofread is all then adding any corrections new information so it sounds like they know what they are talking about on their online store selling Chinese aftermarket chainsaw parts.
Thought that was the ball that git agrssivly swung...Divorce! And getting taken to the cleaners!
Some people get higher, and become drags.....On a square grind, side plate can aggressify (I made that word up) a chain. Put a few degrees more angle on the side plate & you will definitely notice it. Same principle with round files, just not as easy to manipulate.
Some people like low drags. Some people like higher drags. Some side plate angle & an 8 pin sprocket make for a nice smooth chain that can make the finest of adjustments without being grabby. If you do prefer lower drags, make sure your chain is tight, that helps a lot.
How come only every other cutter in the picture is sharpened correctly? I know it's the reverse side of the cutter, but it still shouldn't look like that.
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