If you don't know the answer to that question, you should reconsider the value of posting scholarly threads about topics that you are unqualified to comment upon.
As has been shown, you will fail to recognize errors that will prove embarrassing.
What Makes A Chainsaw Chain Aggressive?
- Thread starter Hipastore
- Start date
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If you don't know the answer to that question, you should reconsider the value of posting scholarly threads about topics that you are unqualified to comment upon.
As has been shown, you will fail to recognize errors that will prove embarrassing.
Agreed. My question was more directed to the OP, now determined to be a BOT.
"Determined" is a bit vague. Who made that determination?
Hipastore is one of our sponsors, so I am not going to be very critical. I believe they sell aftermarket parts of Chinese origen. I have been suspecting these posts are being made by one of their more talented translators rather than one of their more expert chainsaw users. Perhaps they are even being written by a team.
As far as that goes, I don't doubt the use of an artificial intelligence "aid" of some sort. I hear they are available to the common man these days, and are quite good except for when they are spectacularly wrong.
Hipastore is one of our sponsors, so I am not going to be very critical. I believe they sell aftermarket parts of Chinese origen. I have been suspecting these posts are being made by one of their more talented translators rather than one of their more expert chainsaw users. Perhaps they are even being written by a team.
As far as that goes, I don't doubt the use of an artificial intelligence "aid" of some sort. I hear they are available to the common man these days, and are quite good except for when they are spectacularly wrong.
KostasVolos
ArboristSite Operative
Is my point of view far from truth ?
I'm just wondering...
A handsaw's different blades analogy to a chainsaw's different cutters .
Alive ,"green" wood makes wet chips that can accumulate very easily and clog an ordinary handsaw's teeth .Green wood has high water content and its chips act rather as a pulp. Thus the teeth of the saw are usually large in order to cut as efficiently as possible ( serrate larger pieces ) through green wood and spaced rather apart for better chip clearance .Loggers deal with standing ,green wood .Thus the chains to be used in their chainsaws will benefit from
large sized cutters ,spaced apart ( semi skip /full skip ) .
That is the most aggressive type of chain for this type of wood .
This type of saw blades demand more power from the operator,as also this type of chains demand more torque from the chainsaw.
On the other hand ,dry wood demands small sized teeth/cutters in order to withstand the higher forces applied on them by the higher resistance of "dead" ,dry wood.It 's a torque thing .The smaller the size of the tooth/cutter the smaller the torque applied to the tooth/cutter from its edge biting into the wood.Thus prolonging its sharpness and service life as possible when dealing with higher density,dry wood as also demanding less torque from the operator/chainsaw ,respectively.Due to the chips being dry ,there is minimal clogging ,thus the teeth/cutters can be closer to each other,counteracting their small size with higher number of
cuttings per blade length/ chain rotation respectively.
Amateurs,novices,homeowners who buy chainsaws ,
most of the times use it for cutting firewood ( logged by pros ) . And usually is dry ,dead wood .
Thus chains of standard or full house cutter sequence ,having small sized cutters ( low profile ,narrow kerf ) will suit far better for
the purpose .Those type of chains are the most aggressive for this case .
This type of saw blades demand higher speed from the operator, as also this type of chains demand higher rpm from the chainsaw.
For dry wood : [unsponsored product picture deleted]
For green wood : [unsponsored product picture deleted]
For winter green wood : [unsponsored product picture deleted]
[unsponsored product link deleted]
I'm just wondering...
A handsaw's different blades analogy to a chainsaw's different cutters .
Alive ,"green" wood makes wet chips that can accumulate very easily and clog an ordinary handsaw's teeth .Green wood has high water content and its chips act rather as a pulp. Thus the teeth of the saw are usually large in order to cut as efficiently as possible ( serrate larger pieces ) through green wood and spaced rather apart for better chip clearance .Loggers deal with standing ,green wood .Thus the chains to be used in their chainsaws will benefit from
large sized cutters ,spaced apart ( semi skip /full skip ) .
That is the most aggressive type of chain for this type of wood .
This type of saw blades demand more power from the operator,as also this type of chains demand more torque from the chainsaw.
On the other hand ,dry wood demands small sized teeth/cutters in order to withstand the higher forces applied on them by the higher resistance of "dead" ,dry wood.It 's a torque thing .The smaller the size of the tooth/cutter the smaller the torque applied to the tooth/cutter from its edge biting into the wood.Thus prolonging its sharpness and service life as possible when dealing with higher density,dry wood as also demanding less torque from the operator/chainsaw ,respectively.Due to the chips being dry ,there is minimal clogging ,thus the teeth/cutters can be closer to each other,counteracting their small size with higher number of
cuttings per blade length/ chain rotation respectively.
Amateurs,novices,homeowners who buy chainsaws ,
most of the times use it for cutting firewood ( logged by pros ) . And usually is dry ,dead wood .
Thus chains of standard or full house cutter sequence ,having small sized cutters ( low profile ,narrow kerf ) will suit far better for
the purpose .Those type of chains are the most aggressive for this case .
This type of saw blades demand higher speed from the operator, as also this type of chains demand higher rpm from the chainsaw.
For dry wood : [unsponsored product picture deleted]
For green wood : [unsponsored product picture deleted]
For winter green wood : [unsponsored product picture deleted]
[unsponsored product link deleted]
I have found that moisture content isn't as relevant as type of wood being cut. Sappy trees with lots of resin do plug up much worse when hand pruned. Dead dry tree, not so much, but I have not found that bigger or smaller saw teeth makes much difference. What matters is how hard those fibers stick to your saw.
As to semi-skip or other chains? Again, it's not so much an issue of moisture content but of power of the saw and the length of the bar & size of the tree. My 3120 Husqvarna can pull full complement chain on a 50" bar through Osage Orange. Same for sappy green white pine, but with less chattering. Speed of cut does indeed vary according to the hardness of the wood, and I think it is accurate to say that green wood cuts easier than dry wood. Just remember that some dead wood can be quite dry but still cut like butter, depending upon the age.
Much like the bigger saw can pull more teeth through a longer bar, so will your handsaws with bigger teeth require more effort to pull through the wood. It's not so much about green vs. dry wood, it's about how fine a cut you wish to make with your pruning cuts and how fast you want to make the cut, coupled with how strong your arm is. Tiny little teeth that are exceptionally sharp are generally preferred by most arborists, since they cut fast, easy, and give a prettier finish on the tree being pruned. Landscapers cutting weed trees out of their landscape are probably more interested in fast, easy to resharpen, and not so expensive. More tolerant to dulling is a consideration, too.
Now as to how much you are wondering? Your post formerly contained pictures of products mostly unrelated to this thread, as well as a link to your handsaws.
Those have been deleted, and I suggest that you contact Arbor1 to pursue becoming a sponsor for any advertising that you would like to place.
As to semi-skip or other chains? Again, it's not so much an issue of moisture content but of power of the saw and the length of the bar & size of the tree. My 3120 Husqvarna can pull full complement chain on a 50" bar through Osage Orange. Same for sappy green white pine, but with less chattering. Speed of cut does indeed vary according to the hardness of the wood, and I think it is accurate to say that green wood cuts easier than dry wood. Just remember that some dead wood can be quite dry but still cut like butter, depending upon the age.
Much like the bigger saw can pull more teeth through a longer bar, so will your handsaws with bigger teeth require more effort to pull through the wood. It's not so much about green vs. dry wood, it's about how fine a cut you wish to make with your pruning cuts and how fast you want to make the cut, coupled with how strong your arm is. Tiny little teeth that are exceptionally sharp are generally preferred by most arborists, since they cut fast, easy, and give a prettier finish on the tree being pruned. Landscapers cutting weed trees out of their landscape are probably more interested in fast, easy to resharpen, and not so expensive. More tolerant to dulling is a consideration, too.
Now as to how much you are wondering? Your post formerly contained pictures of products mostly unrelated to this thread, as well as a link to your handsaws.
Those have been deleted, and I suggest that you contact Arbor1 to pursue becoming a sponsor for any advertising that you would like to place.
KostasVolos
ArboristSite Operative
I 'm not really related to that company ,except the fact that I have quite a few of their products in my equipment.
But ,you're right .This is a thread that was started from a sponsor
and indeed it does not seem right
( or it seems wrong ) to show pics or links of other brands.
I totally understand .
But ,you're right .This is a thread that was started from a sponsor
and indeed it does not seem right
( or it seems wrong ) to show pics or links of other brands.
I totally understand .
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