bushman
ArboristSite Operative
checked out a echo 360 yesterday ,man alot beefer than the old echos and echo always seems to start.i use the 200 but they are kind of funny sometimes,they come out of ajustment alot.and the echo is 289.00
What Saw Do You Climb With
- Thread starter stihlIT
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darkstar
ArboristSite Guru
ill unhook my saw 100 times if need be ...besides i only need place it in her hook ...never cut big wood with the saw attached ..bad juju
woodchux
Addicted to ArboristSite
16" MS200T 99% of the time. 460 Magnum when needed
RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
I do believe I mentioned elsewhere on this forum that I climb with a 335xpt.
Well, 5 months with that P.O.S. and I was happy to ladle out the dosh on a new ms200t without a second thought. What A Relief! To have such a well balanced, reliable, dependable tool in my hands once again, it's a joy!
Husky 335, you are the weakest link. Good-bye!
Hey clearance,
I don't drop my lanyard dropping big tops either. I think guys run into trouble with their saws snagging when they "nibble" at the backcut using low revs or let the chain just stop in the cut.
My brothers, a chainsaws throttle is to be used as a lightswitch, full on or full off. Full throttle into the cut, full throttle out. Then off throttle.
It is not a dimmer switch, it is either on or off. I see more young guys get their saws into trouble by running chain at low speed. They are not to be used that way!
If there is a cut you need to "nibble", it's a job for your handsaw.
Oh, back to clearance:
If you have to block down a spar "firewood style" try this:
Cut the block, let stabilize, bring saw into next cut, stop halfway. Leave saw safe in next cut.
Push off top block.
Go down two steps, finish block cut, let stabilize.
Put saw into next cut. Leave saw safe. Push block.
Etc., etc.
When "firewooding" a big spar is the way to go, it saves me a lot of energy to do it this way, not swinging a 44 or 66 up and down from my side.
RedlineIt
Well, 5 months with that P.O.S. and I was happy to ladle out the dosh on a new ms200t without a second thought. What A Relief! To have such a well balanced, reliable, dependable tool in my hands once again, it's a joy!
Husky 335, you are the weakest link. Good-bye!
Hey clearance,
I don't drop my lanyard dropping big tops either. I think guys run into trouble with their saws snagging when they "nibble" at the backcut using low revs or let the chain just stop in the cut.
My brothers, a chainsaws throttle is to be used as a lightswitch, full on or full off. Full throttle into the cut, full throttle out. Then off throttle.
It is not a dimmer switch, it is either on or off. I see more young guys get their saws into trouble by running chain at low speed. They are not to be used that way!
If there is a cut you need to "nibble", it's a job for your handsaw.
Oh, back to clearance:
If you have to block down a spar "firewood style" try this:
Cut the block, let stabilize, bring saw into next cut, stop halfway. Leave saw safe in next cut.
Push off top block.
Go down two steps, finish block cut, let stabilize.
Put saw into next cut. Leave saw safe. Push block.
Etc., etc.
When "firewooding" a big spar is the way to go, it saves me a lot of energy to do it this way, not swinging a 44 or 66 up and down from my side.
RedlineIt
Davidsinatree
ArboristSite Operative
My Husky 335 is sittin out on the garage floor.Its a real purdy little saw....ergonomically correct an all, it makes a good wheel chock for my chipper.
It got replaced by a new echo cs-341. Seams to be a good saw so far. I do not like the air filter set up.....its a cheep design.
It got replaced by a new echo cs-341. Seams to be a good saw so far. I do not like the air filter set up.....its a cheep design.
Grumpy Kakapo
ArboristSite Lurker
The silky saws are good and incorporate that with Ms200t you can do most of your thinning jobs.
pbtree
Addicted to ArboristSite
335 XP and a Fanno - I have not bit the Zubat bug yet...
CoreyTMorine
User Formerly known as BlueSpruce
I end up sucking down a lot of exhaust while using the 395. this is typacally not true of the 066. Has anyone else encountered this?
CoreyTMorine
User Formerly known as BlueSpruce
darkstar said:
G.Barenek recomends the use of a breakaway lanyard if this situation makes you nervous. i tried this for awhile. making a 2-3" loop with a piece of string, and installing it like a fuse in my lanyard. Although i never did test to see if it would break if overloaded, it never broke when i did'nt want it to (replace it every month or so).
i also use a hook to hold my saw, but the hook is not bullet proof, and the lanyard has saved my saw on a number of occasions.
jsut my 2 cents, but as my dad always says "Do whats comforatable."
CoreyTMorine
User Formerly known as BlueSpruce
Davidsinatree said:
Yeah, what a POS. i cant say enough bad things about that saw. i will never trust ken palmer again.
CoreyTMorine
User Formerly known as BlueSpruce
Currently I run a silky zubat, a pair of ms200t’s, a 51 (with an 18” .325 bar), and a 066 with big timber dogs (and anywhere from a 20” – 36”, 3/8 pitch bar).
My 365 (20”, 3/8 pitch) failed to start one day last year, I did not spend more than a few minutes toying with it as the saw is near ready for replacement anyway.
I like the 066 for large diameter blockouts. Although the saw is heavy its dimensions are perfect, and while blocking out a tree I don’t need to maneuver the saw a whole bunch. Also I usually get the ground guys to haul it up.
But the other day I was taking out a big double leader pine, the 51 would have been way to small for the job, so I took the 066, which was too heavy in the brush. I had chokered the first leader and was coming down to make the cut, around 15’ down there was a crossover branch that had sort of grown into the leader to be removed. The tree was about 18 months dead, there was nothing to stand on/no leverage to lift the saw, it was 95 degrees and humid, this was the 2nd big tree of the day, and the crane was a 40-ton monster with a very experienced operator. So I left the crossover/grown in limb.
Dropping down another 15’ I tied in, pulled my climbing line off of the ball, and began my cut. Fairly deep face away from the 2nd leader, check with the operator, move around to the far side, start a cut with the bar perpendicular to the face cut, about 1/3 of the way through, move around to the right/ away from the crane and towards the holding wood. Take a breath, loosen up my flipline, thumbs up from the operator, OK here we go. Plunge the bar in, pull it out, constantly cleaning the chips, and widening the cut as the tree settles in. I try to get the work to settle towards the face until the crane takes up the slack, make sure everything is stable, then finish the cut and let the crane take it. But with that grown in/crossover I had cut straight through before it settled. Anyway we don’t work with much slack, so the leader stayed right in place. I waved down and gave a boom up sign. The leader began to move and although the crossover/crossover fought a little, it eventually pulled apart. Imparting a slight swing to the piece and knocking down a bunch of deadwood. Nothing that wasn’t accounted for, all was well.
So my question is, what would be the best saw to use in this circumstance? A light saw would have been better, I am considering the 357 or its latest incarnation,(after browsing the chainsaw forum I’m leaning towards the 359 over the 357) but I'm fairly turned off to Husky since I gave them 400.00$? for that rotten POS 335. The saw I’m leaning towards is the 044, but something keeps me from committing. Any suggestions/opinions/help/comments/ would be appreciated.
My 365 (20”, 3/8 pitch) failed to start one day last year, I did not spend more than a few minutes toying with it as the saw is near ready for replacement anyway.
I like the 066 for large diameter blockouts. Although the saw is heavy its dimensions are perfect, and while blocking out a tree I don’t need to maneuver the saw a whole bunch. Also I usually get the ground guys to haul it up.
But the other day I was taking out a big double leader pine, the 51 would have been way to small for the job, so I took the 066, which was too heavy in the brush. I had chokered the first leader and was coming down to make the cut, around 15’ down there was a crossover branch that had sort of grown into the leader to be removed. The tree was about 18 months dead, there was nothing to stand on/no leverage to lift the saw, it was 95 degrees and humid, this was the 2nd big tree of the day, and the crane was a 40-ton monster with a very experienced operator. So I left the crossover/grown in limb.
Dropping down another 15’ I tied in, pulled my climbing line off of the ball, and began my cut. Fairly deep face away from the 2nd leader, check with the operator, move around to the far side, start a cut with the bar perpendicular to the face cut, about 1/3 of the way through, move around to the right/ away from the crane and towards the holding wood. Take a breath, loosen up my flipline, thumbs up from the operator, OK here we go. Plunge the bar in, pull it out, constantly cleaning the chips, and widening the cut as the tree settles in. I try to get the work to settle towards the face until the crane takes up the slack, make sure everything is stable, then finish the cut and let the crane take it. But with that grown in/crossover I had cut straight through before it settled. Anyway we don’t work with much slack, so the leader stayed right in place. I waved down and gave a boom up sign. The leader began to move and although the crossover/crossover fought a little, it eventually pulled apart. Imparting a slight swing to the piece and knocking down a bunch of deadwood. Nothing that wasn’t accounted for, all was well.
So my question is, what would be the best saw to use in this circumstance? A light saw would have been better, I am considering the 357 or its latest incarnation,(after browsing the chainsaw forum I’m leaning towards the 359 over the 357) but I'm fairly turned off to Husky since I gave them 400.00$? for that rotten POS 335. The saw I’m leaning towards is the 044, but something keeps me from committing. Any suggestions/opinions/help/comments/ would be appreciated.
woodchux
Addicted to ArboristSite
044 is a good saw... but I'd go with the 460
RedlineIt
ArboristSite Guru
bluespruce,
Even after my disappointment with the 335, I am sold on Husky's mid and big saws. But IMO the 357 is not a substitute for an 044. It is an excellent light-weight for your groundman to limb with, very well balanced but not big enough to step into the 044 class.
I have my eyes open for a good used 272xp. One of the best mid-size saws EVER.
RedlineIt
Even after my disappointment with the 335, I am sold on Husky's mid and big saws. But IMO the 357 is not a substitute for an 044. It is an excellent light-weight for your groundman to limb with, very well balanced but not big enough to step into the 044 class.
I have my eyes open for a good used 272xp. One of the best mid-size saws EVER.
RedlineIt
darkstar
ArboristSite Guru
just keep yer saw attached everytime and one day you will rue .... or a good break away ...... :blob5:
Last edited:
CoreyTMorine
User Formerly known as BlueSpruce
RedlineIt said:
I guess i'm looking for one saw to do it all. Its funny, my dad only ever had 2 saws at a time, i have 4 and still need more.
Yeah, i like the mid sized huskies way more than the stihl or Johnsered line up in that class.
xtremetrees
Addicted to ArboristSite
I climb with a Husky 141 as a limbing, and small bucking saw,
Anything bigger and its the Husky 372.
Anything bigger and its the Husky 372.
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