What Welder do you use?

[danrclem]

Another vote to go with gas. I have a Lincoln 100 and love it. If you have the extra money go with a higher voltage welder though. It will be more versatile. I don't think you can go wrong with Lincoln or Miller.

Danny

 

[sawn_penn]

Stick welders are cheap.

MIG with fluxcore is really stick welding. Same results, same mess, maybe a bit easier to do. A more expensive machine.

Gas MIG needs still air and a supply of sheilding gas. The welds are clean and the wire is cheap.

TIG produces great welds slowly. The gear is expensive and you really need to know how to run it.


That said, I've been using gassless mig (fluxcore) recently because I've got a MIG welder and renting a bottle of argoshield is too much trouble for the odd weld.

 

[chowdozer]

I've never welded with flux core, so I can't say how it is. I've seen some ugly welds with it though.

I bought a Millermatic 250 14 years ago and three gas bottles and haven't looked back. I have welded aluminum, stainless and steel with it. I've been looking at small TIG's now. Something small for portability that I can run off a small generator.

If you have the oppurtunity, get a TIG. Much more controllable, no need to change gas. It is slower than a MIG, and it does take longer to learn but if you're not in production the speed isn't such a big deal.

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

My Century 120v unit has been great guys. Paid about $200 for it, the gauge, cart and some other odds and ends. New from Tractor Supply. Infinite heat and wire adjust. 95/105 amp switch. tweco torch. You guys are talking about the expense or gas? My lease was $125 for a mid-sized bottle that has lasted me 3 years. It'll cost me $27 to have it filled. Let's break this down.

A) Buy a 120v gas MIG. You're going to thank us for it. Welding light gauge material will result in less blow through and nicer welds. It also keeps the slagging of welds out of the picture. Need to weld outside? Fine. Change the spool and polarity and go weld outside.

B) Get infinite heat and wire adjust. Period.

C) Why a 120v unit? Because with the money you save vs. the 220v unit you can buy a used 220v stick to weld the heavier jobs. You'll appreciate the better penetration that a 6010 rod will provide. Cover with a few passes of 7018 and it's golden. You're 220v MIG units can't duplicate that aggressive digging power.

D) When it comes to welders buy a name brand. Millers are the best in my opinion (especially for stick) followed by Hobart and Lincoln Electric. Don't overlook Century for your MIG needs. Mine's a jewel and it's got some hours on it. While Miller is my first stick pick, I've got a Hobart that's about 30 yrs. old that is still laying some nice beads. Paid $50 at a garage sale 5 yrs. ago w/leads and some rods and a cart.

E) I WANT A TIG! Sorry...had to say it.

 

[sawn_penn]

My G-size cylinder was costing about $130 a year. For someone who welds once a year, that's a lot of money. Especially when they mail the bills out and the wife opens them...

 

[Bob Wright]

I don't know what on a chainsaw you are going to weld, but as others have mentioned stay away from the imported machines, just remember the parts cost more, and get one with gas option, flux core sucks to do real nice work.
I have a Miller 210 with the alum spoolgun and it will do anything i need done, except cast iron because i don't want to spend 93 bucks a pound for the wire.
I weld everyday in my shop mostly welding ideas i come up with plus the tracksoverhead.com train bridges i sell. I also keep my neighbors tree cutting business running, i weld weekly on his equipment. I wouldn't buy anything less than a Miller 175 or a Lincoln 175 but that my opinion... Sorry for the ramble. I am on both of these forums...Bob aka aametalmaster
http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3
http://www.hobartwelders.com/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3

 

[wagonwheeler]

230v and Infinite Adjustment

I had a 115v import (with gas) traded up to a Hobart Handler 150 (230v gas w/ 4 heat settings) and sold it and bought a Millermatic 175 (230v infinite adjustment). This over about an 8 year period. Also have a 225 stick welder.

I wouln't consider any machine without gas. Next is infinite adjustment - it's more than a 'perk' and much more important IMHO for a small machine and thinner material - fine heat adjustment isn't an issue over 1/8" thickness. Infinite adjustment is also important if you want to weld aluminum.

Finally, I highly recommend 230v. 230v holds an arc better on heavier welds and has higher duty cycle at same amperage.

Both the Lincoln and Miller 175's are good machines and fairly portable. A Miller 210 would be even better (higher duty cycle)...or a good used 185 - if portability isn't an issue.

Chaser

 

[Andy1234]

I started with a $150 115V Century Flux Cored welder, that was about the size of a twelve pack. Used the snot out of it for over 4 years. It had a high and low setting, and I left it on high for 99.9% of the time. The only problems I encountered were running it until the thermal overload switch clicked, and running out of wire 15 minutes after Home Depot closed! Yes the welds looked like crap, but none ever broke once I got the hang of it. And I was able to weld thick stuff, too. I just had to make multiple passes and build up the weld fillet to do it. Now, the kids down the street from me use it, that way they won't wake me up at 8 o'clock on Saturday to get me to weld their motorcycles back together!

Several years ago, I bought a Miller 251 MIG unit, and it is NICE.. That may be a little overkill for what you want, and a little expensise ($1900 or so) though.

Miller currently makes a mid-size welder where you can switch between 115V and 230V input voltage by simply changing the quick connect plugs. I think that model is around $1K or so, but don't quote me.

Miller also makes a 210 MIG welder, where you can buy it with both a regular gun, and an attached spool gun, which you can use for aluminum!! Again, this might be a little expensive, 2 grand, or thereabouts.

Their website has all the details. www.millerwelds.com There are also some very nice welding instructions in the library section on their site.

Anyway, don't be afraid to be a tightwad and buy an el cheapo unit to learn on. If it breaks, gets stolen, or you suddenly lose interest, it wasn't that costly. However, when you get good at it, the price increase to a full size MIG unit doesn't seem so bad anymore...

Also, check with a local welding supply house, they may have a rental unit or trade in at a serious discount.

Last, but certainly not least: GET A GOOD HELMET!! You only get one pair of eyes!

Andy

 

[046]

what I use is a Snap-on YA205, 230V mig, able to weld thin sheetmetal.

 

[hornett22]

i have the lincoln pro mig 175.220v

i love it.i wouldn't weld mufflers from chainsaws with flux core.too messy. get a good brand 110 and you should be good to do most anything around the house.i saw my buddy weld a trailer hitch on a dump truck with a lincoln 110 machine.it's held for years.i just like 220.anything from lincoln ,miller,crapsman,or hobart should meet your needs.remeber,you get what you pay for.if you wouldn't buy a poulan wildthing,you shouldn't buy a welder form harbour frieght.

 

[deerlakejens]

Anybody have an experience with a Miller Pulstar 450? There's a used one available here reasonably.

 

[gatkeper1]

The pulstar 450 is 3 phase power only.
If I had 3ph available and it were reasonable I would surely consider it

 

[vgbob]

I would certainly agree with the opinions of the
professional welders on the forum. But as a DIY'er
I've been able to do anything I need with a Hobart
Handler 135. If I were concerned about appearance
or perhaps thin material I'd probably use gas, but
for convenience flux core wire is hard to beat. And
as someone else mentioned, nothing I've welded
has come apart yet. I will say that I won't use
it on anything over about 3/16's despite that fact
that people do it. I have a stick welder that I use
for heavier jobs, but it's just not as convenient to
use. I can't really say that the infinite adjustment
is an issue for me. My stick welder is, but I've used
Lincolns that aren't and I wouldn't have any problem
with that either. To me it just comes down to something
that is easy to use wherever I need it. With the Hobart,
or any of the 110v MIGs you can carry it easily and
plug it in almost anyplace.

 

[mike385]

everyone is stuck on big names...... I took a chance on HTP made in usa and I think are better for the money. And yes I am a certified in many areas of welding: AWSD1.1, ASME section IX, and a unlimited aluminum structural cert. that I am not sure of the exact number.

 

[Bob Wright]

I thought HTP's are made in Italy, I buy all my parts from Jeff Noland the pres of HTP, but i don't know for sure...Bob

 

[mike385]

they might be but they at least are not sold by big business isn't that what everyone likes? lol

 

[Andy1234]

Yes, HTP is good stuff.

Even though nearly all of my stuff is Miller, I would not hesitate to recommend HTP. A friend of mine has a HTP DC TIG set-up that I have used extensively, and it is top notch.

That, and from what I have heard, if you needs parts or service, their customer support is excellent.

FWIW, Andy

 

[Finnbear]

Tom: i have one of the early Hobart Handler 120 models and LOVE it, but the new ones just do not compare. with this older model i can make some beautiful welds. comparing Deans much newer handler 125 i think it was, i can not weld worth beans in his. most people i know buying welders these days have gone Miller.

I also have an older Hobart Handler 120v unit. Bought around 1988-'89? It's the one that looks like a black plastic suitcase. I've welded all sorts of stuff with it, both flux core and gas. The gas welds cleaner if you are inside out of the wind. Get a bigger gas bottle because the little ones are always empty when you need them. I have two and always get the empty one filled ASAP so I don't have to quit in the middle of a job. The gas setup also allows smaller dia wire which allows you to weld thinner sheet metal. The flux core has a bit more spatter and is better on heavier (1/8"+) material but is great if you are outside welding. You can single pass 3/16" steel if everything is really clean and you really pay attention. You can weld 1/4" if you grind the edges a bit to let the weld metal go deeper into the seam. This is the max thickness you should ever try to weld with it and you really have to pay very close attention to make sure you are getting sound welds. I built a utility trailer in '91 with it using 1/4" angle iron and have never had a weld fail. I have worn out a set of tires and a hitch coupler and the fenders are about shot and one floor board is now broken. It holds one full cord of firewood and has hauled cords and cords of wood, 2 tons of limestone more than a few times, a Farmall Cub, and more loads of mulch, horse manure for the garden, sand, brush, wood chips, and scrap metal than I could ever count. I've also built an engine stand, a log-sled, and loads of small stuff, along with lots of little repairs. I also have a Lincoln AC225 buzz box that rarely gets used. I don't know about the new Hobart Handlers but I've been really happy with mine.
Finnbear

 

[Andy1234]

Re: The Miller three phase Pulstar....

If the price is REALLY right, buy it and then get a static phase converter to run it off of single phase 220V electric.


Andy

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Another vote for shield gas.


#1. Buy your own bottle('s). Much cheaper in the long run, and the ease of use vs flux core is well worth the hassle of getting them filled once a year.

#2. Buy a pony bottle as a backup. Cheap, easy to store and you wont run out of gas at the wrong time.


#3. Get a GOOD regulator. With a good set of guages and regulator you can conserve gas when its calm (indoors 7-10 LM) and if it gets windy or if conditons arent just right you can crank up the gas (15-20 LM) and still get good results.