what would YOU do?

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mikeb1079

ArboristSite Operative
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Location
madison wi
well first and foremost i would like to say thanks to you guys for all the information i have already gleaned thru this site. there's a heap of good stuff in here, well done. second, i picked up a nice stihl 076 as a result of a tip off from this site (check out the photo) :biggrinbounce2: and i'm keen to start milling with it, as my dolmakita 5400 is a wee bit underpowered in the milling department. it works, its just sloooooowwww.....
looks like the 076 will be a nice milling saw, though it needs a new muffler. (quick question: will an 051 muffler fit an 076? theres one on ebay but im not sure if it will work) so here's my questions: it looks like the drive sprocket is supposed to run 404 chain. should i buy a sprocket that will run 3/8 for milling? does it matter much? i will be welding up a milling jig for the 076, what bar length would you recommend? i understand that the bigger the better, yet the bigger the setup the tougher it is for one guy to deal with. i'll be milling anything i can get my hands on, preferably oak/walnut/cherry/hickory. i've got a chance to pick up a 32" stihl bar for 40 bucks off craigslist, but on the stihl website it says that this bar runs 3/8 chain. if it were you, and you were making up a jig from scratch with no bar, how big of a setup, ie bar/jig, would you make?
 
Depends on the size of the tree, but 36" and 42" bars are popular for milling.

I would lean toward a 3/8", 0.063" gauge bar and chain. 0.404" chain is thicker, a disadvantage for milling.

If your saw uses rim sprockets, they are only a few bucks.
 
I have always wanted to get more out of my mill. I have a 36" bar for my mill. I didn't realize it but my mill can handle a 42" bar. I have maxed out my 28" capacity with the 36" bar.

If I had a choice with that saw I would go with the 42" and 3/8" chain.

What have you come across in the area so far. I always have 3 or 4 potential logs on my to do list. There is plenty to be had. The funny thing is is that I am never on the hunt for logs.

Chris
 
A 42" bar on a 36" mill is just about right and a good place to start. I also run a 24" and 36" bar when it is appropriate for the size of the log. That set up is lighter, and easier to manipulate. 3/8" 0.063 is also a good choice. 0.404 cuts a wider kerf, takes more power (and wood from your boards) and is slower. If you end up getting into a 60" at any point.... 0.404 is the better option I think, but some have outfitted their long bars with 3/8" sprockts, and it works for them.
 
In regard to your question about the muffler, an 051 muffler WILL NOT fit an 076. The mufflers that will fit an 076 can be taken from another 076, 075 or ts760. The mufflers from a 051 and 076 look close enough, but the cylinder port size is different which is why they dont interchange.
 
A 42" bar on a 36" mill is just about right and a good place to start. I also run a 24" and 36" bar when it is appropriate for the size of the log. That set up is lighter, and easier to manipulate. 3/8" 0.063 is also a good choice.

:agree2:



Scott
 
When you make the mill don't weld the frame to fit just one bar length. Instead use T-Track or Uninstrut or similar for the mill rails. That way you can easily change the bar length. If the bar length gets too long for the mill rails you can just get long mill rails

I also use 063 3/8 chain and have 3 sets of mill rails 36, 54 and 64" to use on bar lengths from 30 to 60" with 441, 660, 076 and 880 saws
 
good advice

ah...excellent advice fellas, thanks. to hazard: i've only milled some cherry so far, that was about 16" diameter. the thing is though, i work for the city of madison and the waste reduction plant is right across the street from our shop. that's where they take all the city trees to be ground into chips. i just saw a pile of white oak over there today, and they have some BIG pieces of lumber laying about over there, just waiting for me to mill it up. hazard: how do you come across most of your wood?
thanks to bullseye for the tip on the muffler.
bobl: how do you like your 076 for milling? pluses? minuses?

i picked up that 32" bar for my saw, and i think i'll order a 3/8 sprocket tonight, then as per bobs advice i'll use extendable rails when i make my jig so i can go bigger if required.
thanks again dudes...:cheers:
 
Lately it is just friends and family.

I work for the dot and I used to work on roadway projects. I would cut trees down before they were burned or buried. I probably got 50 logs that way. That was more in the 90's. There hasn't been any big jobs close by and also I have enough lumber stored up.

I am assuming the waste reduction plant is closed to the general public. Not that I need anymore wood but I am always looking for interesting wood for turning bowls on the lathe

Chris
 
reduction plant

hey hazard, actually the reduction plant is open to the public (kind of). if you have a trailer or pickup truck, you can usually just drive in there and get one of the streets workers to load up stuff for you (they run a couple of end loaders to put all the trees into the giant chipper/shredder). lots of folks just pull in there and have them load up mulch for them, i'm sure they wouldn't care if you asked them to put a trunk piece into a trailer or something. after all, the mulch that they make is taken to drop off sites around town and is free to the public anyway. pm me if you need more info.
 
If you switch from .404 to 3/8 pitch you will need to do the math to figute out what noumber of pins so you don't lose any chain speed. depending on what size bar you go with you may even be able to incrase the chain speed a tad sine the an 076 has so much torque. I run .404 chain on my 075. it is a tad wider but .404 refers to the pitch and not the width of the kerf. the difference in ker is not as big as most people make it out to be.

the muffler from a Ts 760 will fit but they don't have spark aresters, or atleast the one I picked up didn't.

I mill by myself and my rig is plenty managable. I run the 076 with a 42" bar on a granberg mill. If you weld up something out of steel it will weigh more so keep that in mind.

not to open a can of worms,but I run 50:1 (full synthetic) mix when milling with my old saws and have been for 15 years. these old saws were beter made than the new ones and there is no need to baby them.
 
bobl: how do you like your 076 for milling? pluses? minuses?

I like using the 076 because it has a lot of built in positives as a milling saw but I prefer the 880 after a few mods.

Pluses:
Easy to start - I don't know why that is the case but I never even bother with te decomp valve
Plenty of Torque - helps with one of the minuses below
Exhaust directed way from log and operator - this is excellent
Tough as old boots - no need to say any more here
Bar bolts close to end of saw - this one is subtle but it means cutting length can be maxed out easier than a 660/880

Minuses
Slow chainspeed compared to modern saws - can be compensated for with careful choice of sprocket
Hard to refuel mid slab - right angle filling tube fixes that
A little heavier than comparable cc saw - but not that significant on a mill

All in all a great milling saw

I think there is tendency especially by newbies to try and solve problems by increasing the grunt of the saw and probably not enough on mill design and maintaining quality practices.
 
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Bob, did you ever post pics of that right-angle fuel filler for your 076? I remember the thread about discussing how to fix that little "problem" but I don't specifically remember a final design or photos thereof for some reason.
 
Bob, did you ever post pics of that right-angle fuel filler for your 076? I remember the thread about discussing how to fix that little "problem" but I don't specifically remember a final design or photos thereof for some reason.

I was going to make one, but when I saw a plastic right angle adapter can be bought for $15? I decided against it. I have not used my 076 for a while as I'm planning a make over for it!
 
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Bob where did you find the plastic right angle adapter ? I "stumbled across a decent 076 last week dirt cheap and couldn't pass it up. I would be interested in one.

p.s. I haven't given up on my twin powerhead setup at all, just a cad purchase that I couldn't walk away from.:) So i may make a second mill setup.


Scott
I
 
Bob where did you find the plastic right angle adapter ? I "stumbled across a decent 076 last week dirt cheap and couldn't pass it up. I would be interested in one.

p.s. I haven't given up on my twin powerhead setup at all, just a cad purchase that I couldn't walk away from.:) So i may make a second mill setup.


Scott
I

I saw them on ebay.
 
Newbie 076 buildup

Hey guys, just finished my 076. Built from one saw and several donors and a few nos parts. First time messing with these old beasts. I like the saw, it's built like a tank and is torquey as HELL. Oem piston in decent shape, crank was smooth and ok. New intake manifold, crank seals, handle and covers, oil pump driver, and a pile of misc. Pretty much used the best available parts I had and bought a few. Only thing I'm not crazy about is the fact that the intake and exhaust ports are on the same side of the cylinder. God, she's heavy... Running a 44" rollernose GB bar with 3/8" .063. Don't care for the rollernose much, it get's pretty warm. I enjoyed the build and love it when I get a chance to run one of the classics. I'll be throwing it up on Ebay probably sunday to finance my next project and pay my taxes *&%$#!!
She runs great and has a ton of new parts. Nothing is broken or stripped. I put up a video of my first two and only cuts I'll make with it, I cringe when I think about hitting nails or something with ALL THAT CHAIN. :) Like the site and look forward to my next project. Mike
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eFz53uW6Fho
 

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