ValleyForge
Liberty Farms
It’s good to keep a husky around for the grandkids to play with….lolMy bench. They all run. Even the Husky! It's the only Husky I own. A ported 288. It dose alright.For a Husky!
View attachment 992773
What's on your bench
- Thread starter chainsaw _ crazy
- Start date
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Decided to tear down a lil Husky 141 I had on the back burner that would not rev quick or take tuning adjustments properly. Bingo.... intake side. She ate fines and/or chips at some point I think. Nothing missing internally.
And oh..... I do have an OEM cyl kit here with bearings/seals! Picked it up 2 yrs ago on the bay for like $20 I think. Score. Now to find a piston...
Went hoggin a bit tonight. Less plating chipping but my aim may be a bit off... LOL Not gonna matter, still will give vacuum to impulse circuit. This is the Titanikel Pop up kit for Husky 350 #2. This saw will get the bigger ported muffler I have.
That meteor kit I got will go in 350 #3.
Should be loads of fun to run them all and compare to a bone stock 350 I also have.
That meteor kit I got will go in 350 #3.
Should be loads of fun to run them all and compare to a bone stock 350 I also have.
That 141 is a good saw just for the plentiful parts availability.
Meteor pistons, Caber rings ect...
I have a Poulan 2600 (same engine).
Poulan did a good job building the 141 family.
Made in Nashville Arkansas IIRC.
On my bench next is a Homelite XL2..owner can't get it to start and it's only sat for about 20 years...tore it down and the carburetor was full of oil! No fuel at all, just what looked like motor oil. I'm gonna clean and kit the carb and install new fuel and oil lines and see what happens then. Not a big fan of working on these but this isn't my first...
Something else: Since there was bar oil in the carb I guess it means that the little diaphragm in the oiler system is kaput or missing so I have to find another one or bypass that part.
Something else: Since there was bar oil in the carb I guess it means that the little diaphragm in the oiler system is kaput or missing so I have to find another one or bypass that part.
Pepster, yeah I have used Meteor pistons in past 136/141 builds but don't see them available on eBay any more. I mean the 141 size, (40mm), is out of stock. The 136, (38mm), is available for now. I picked up an OEM Husky piston kit for $16 the other day and I'm ok with that.
Yup, prices on parts still cheap and plentiful so far. And if you burn 1 up, drop it or run it over, not a huge loss!
Yup, prices on parts still cheap and plentiful so far. And if you burn 1 up, drop it or run it over, not a huge loss!
Tinkering on this labor of love lately… bought as a none runner for cheap and figured it to be the old points ignition system. Switched that out and boom! Works great! Until 24 hours later when it won’t start and the spark looks like the electrical equivalent to a wet fart again.
She sits in the corner of the shop until I find the time to change the coil out I suppose…
She sits in the corner of the shop until I find the time to change the coil out I suppose…
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Piotr Pakuła
ArboristSite Guru
Wombat Ranger
ArboristSite Operative
Well.... ran into a bit of a snag placing the Titanikel pop up cyl on to check my squish. NFGAA. Bolts bottom out before she sits pretty. Took some measurements as the cyl base looked a bit thin. Yup.
So I measure the toasted OEM cyl and then the Meteor kit cyl I have for victim #3. OEM and Meteor fit nicely! Squish with the HWY pop up piston inside the Meteor jug with no base gasket, I getting .017 to .020 in 4 different places. A bit on the low side I would think???
Motoseal would add what..... .008-.010"? Or I do have an OEM Husky gasket and a Stens one on hand. Thickness measurements in the pics. Also, of course I have shave down the outside of the transfer port on the FW side for contact issues. Will also shave a bit of the FW where it hits.
So what say you about my low squish dilemma with the Meteor jug and pop up? Let it ride? Or should I cut down the bolts and fit up the Titanikel jug? That dang pop up comes up close!
So I measure the toasted OEM cyl and then the Meteor kit cyl I have for victim #3. OEM and Meteor fit nicely! Squish with the HWY pop up piston inside the Meteor jug with no base gasket, I getting .017 to .020 in 4 different places. A bit on the low side I would think???
Motoseal would add what..... .008-.010"? Or I do have an OEM Husky gasket and a Stens one on hand. Thickness measurements in the pics. Also, of course I have shave down the outside of the transfer port on the FW side for contact issues. Will also shave a bit of the FW where it hits.
So what say you about my low squish dilemma with the Meteor jug and pop up? Let it ride? Or should I cut down the bolts and fit up the Titanikel jug? That dang pop up comes up close!
Few more...
OMFG.... I just realized a rookie mistake..... I never even thought about sticking in a spark plug to see if the pop up hits with no base gasket!
Yikes.... looks like I need a distraction.... Ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Conway Twitty!
Yikes.... looks like I need a distraction.... Ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Conway Twitty!
Kodiak Kid
Idiot with a "power saw"
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Anyone have an idea what model the Jon is?
I also made a rookie mistake! A big rookie mistake! I forgot the threads on the end of the shaft were reversed! I put an impact to it and snapped the end of the crank right off when trying to remove the clutch!
I also made a rookie mistake! A big rookie mistake! I forgot the threads on the end of the shaft were reversed! I put an impact to it and snapped the end of the crank right off when trying to remove the clutch!
Piotr Pakuła
ArboristSite Guru
If it does not go with a small hammer, take a larger one ;-) Jon50?
Chevboy, I’m interested that your squish is so close to optimal but seems uneven. Most would put a thicker gasket. A new guy who doesn’t know any better might attach a circle of wet sanding paper with double sided tape to the top of an old piston of the correct diameter and lap in the last couple 0.001” for perfect and even squish. I’d keep the cylinder upside down with oiled paper so the slurry doesn’t get on the sides of piston and cylinder walls. I might squirt a bit of aerosol oil such as WD40 into plug hole while lapping. I bet it would take no time at all to lap the roof of combustion chamber, and you’d be assured there are no low spots where squish was even tighter than the four spots you measured.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
Yes, the motoseal will add around .009". If I wasn't inclined to do more modifications, I'd just put it together with motoseal and make sure there is no clearance issues. It is odd that the mounting locations on the base are that much thinner. In my own case, I might clean up a cylinder like that on my lathe.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
Hopped up my 201tcm a bit today. I went pretty conservative with it, but it's like a new saw. Gone is the sluggish powerband, it's now quite snappy...I think this will cure my desire for a 020t/200t.
Some work on the lathe to cut the squish band for a gasket delete.
Raised the exhaust port quite a bit, it didn't hurt the torque one bit either:
All done, my 2511t may not be my favorite top handle anymore:
Some work on the lathe to cut the squish band for a gasket delete.
Raised the exhaust port quite a bit, it didn't hurt the torque one bit either:
All done, my 2511t may not be my favorite top handle anymore:
I'll never understand all the love for the 200t's
People want bank for saws and parts now
Those cinder blocks weren't very popular here I never cared for working on them personally.
If I need one I'll get a 2511
But for now I'm running one of these 90.00 china jobbies for limbing
This is my 4th one everytime I got one my friends and neighbors wanted them
They are all holding up fine no issues.
Sierra_rider
Piss revver
I kinda understand the love for the 200t, but not enough to pay what people are asking for used saws nowadays. The 020t had even better stock porting, but doesn't have the same love as the the 200t, even though it's pretty much the same saw...it's about as perfect as a stock top handle can get IMO.
I bought my 201tcm new for less than people are asking for some well-used 200t's. A little work to the cylinder and now I have a saw that runs stronger than a 200t, yet has better AV. M-tronic gets a lot of hate, but I've had good luck with the more recent M-tronic...my 201 has never had a running issues.
My other climbing saw is the 2511t. I haven't torn into that motor yet, I'm not sure what I can improve on with it yet. The only mods have been gutting the muffler, adding a larger outlet/deflector, 3-point dogs, and a narrow-kerf 16" bar/chain. It runs really well and is probably quicker for limbing than the stock 201.
I love the weight on the 2511, but like the torque of the 201 when it comes to chunking down trees or taking big limbs. The 2511 does alright with it's current set up, but the 201 is great for piecing out a tree until I get to the point that I need a longer bar. Then it's time for the ms400...I used to use the 372 for that, but I've been chasing light weight above all else when in the tree.
