What's on your bench

[Yotaismygame]

With base gasket, tightest spot at exhaust port .0395, the rest measured at 3/6/9 o'clock .043/.044 give or take .001 on each reading. Will measure it without a base gasket but I have a feeling it's going to be tight at the exhaust port.

Edit:
Without gasket .0215 at exhaust port. 3/6/9 coming in at .0235/.0245 all measurements taken 5 times and staying within .0005.

Still working on my degree wheel mount.

Also with gasket I only had two bolts in, without gasket I had in all four bolts.

I wouldn’t worry so much about the squish. As long as you’re within .017-.025 you’ll be fine. I shoot for .020 on most size saws but it will vary a little

 

[lostone]

I wouldn’t worry so much about the squish. As long as you’re within .017-.025 you’ll be fine. I shoot for .020 on most size saws but it will vary a little

Ya, I was hoping for it to be closer with a gasket. I will get the port timing once I get my mount built for my degree wheel.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Ya, I was hoping for it to be closer with a gasket. I will get the port timing once I get my mount built for my degree wheel.

In case you need some idea's on that: Harbor freight sells a 1/2" drill chuck, couple washers, and a bolt to thread into the chuck. Boom done.

 

[lostone]

Today we have two contestants up on the bench and a degree wheel mount build.

First up is a m8x1 thread coupler with a piece of 1/4-20 all thread JB welded into it sporting a Motion Pro degree wheel.


Next we have contestant No.1, an all OEM build wearing a new OEM 50mm top end, Used crank and Nachi C3 bearings. Base gasket delete for .0215 squish.


Then we have contestant No.2, a Huztl case sporting a used OEM crank and Nachi C3 bearings.
As you can see I did use flippy caps on the Huztl to increase compression since it has a .0385 squish even with a gasket delete, I figure that should put it on par with the all OEM build with a gasket delete and .0215 squish.


I have placed a post in the Saw builders 101 section (372 builders, port numbers any idea how she will be?) on these showing the squish and port timings.

 

[Pioneer]

This guy is on the bench. Fixed it up for a friend, it runs really sweet now. I can see why they have a following.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Hardly anyone checks the hot saw section. 98/118/80 makes a strong saw. Grab a drill chuck next time for the wheel. It’s universal then.

 

[lostone]

Hardly anyone checks the hot saw section. 98/118/80 makes a strong saw. Grab a drill chuck next time for the wheel. It’s universal then.

I still plan to have you do the OEM saw for me when I get the time to get it together, the Huztl will be for me to play around with porting later.

By the way, all kidding aside, to anyone that plans to use Stens flippy caps instead of OEM don't bother unless you already have Huztl regular caps. The Stens O-ring is a very stiff rubber and doesn't want to work well, if you have a kit saw you can take the O-rings off of the standard caps and put them on the Stens and then they work fine, if not and you want them just order the OEM it's actually cheaper in the end than to buy the OEM seals and put on the Stens.

 

[Huskybill]

How do you move the transfer ports inside the bore?

I have many saws waiting inline for there turn on the bench. Husky 285 xp not sure wether to make them 2100’s. A ‘70’s 240se is next. My 2100 build is almost done I opened up the cylinder cover we’re the top carb cover is for more air to enter the air filter area. The pre screen still works with the new added holes. Can’t see them when the cover is on. Still need to advance the timing and mod the muffler.

 

[Yotaismygame]

I still plan to have you do the OEM saw for me when I get the time to get it together, the Huztl will be for me to play around with porting later.

By the way, all kidding aside, to anyone that plans to use Stens flippy caps instead of OEM don't bother unless you already have Huztl regular caps. The Stens O-ring is a very stiff rubber and doesn't want to work well, if you have a kit saw you can take the O-rings off of the standard caps and put them on the Stens and then they work fine, if not and you want them just order the OEM it's actually cheaper in the end than to buy the OEM seals and put on the Stens.

no worries. I forgot we talked. Hard to keep track of people around here. Interesting about the stens caps. I have a pair on my jred and they have been fine. But I got them at least a year ago

 

[Matt93eg]

My Makita 6401 currently on mine. Getting a new clutch and oil pick up tube. Hopefully the end to my bar oil leak.

 

[Yotaismygame]

My Makita 6401 currently on mine. Getting a new clutch and oil pick up tube. Hopefully the end to my bar oil leak.

Those are known to leak where the pump presses against the oil line. There’s an updated part. It’s a green hose.

 

[Matt93eg]

Those are known to leak where the pump presses against the oil line. There’s an updated part. It’s a green hose.

Yeah mine is leaking on the bottom on the pickup where the grommet deal goes in the oil tank. Mine is black but the one I ordered was genuine Makita and it’s green according to the pictures so I’m glad to hear that’s an updated deal.

 

[Yotaismygame]

Yeah mine is leaking on the bottom on the pickup where the grommet deal goes in the oil tank. Mine is black but the one I ordered was genuine Makita and it’s green according to the pictures so I’m glad to hear that’s an updated deal.

I went through the same dilemma. Saw leaked like crazy right there

 

[buttercup]

I'm finally done with my chain sharpener, mounted on to some birch plywood so that I can clamp it to my workbench.



My effort to make it accurately seems to have payed off because I don't need to re-adjust it at all when I switch sides - or chains.
I've freshened up a pair of my milling chains and it was really nice to work with, in fact I discovered that the factory sharpening was actually slightly uneven on one side to the other and along the same row as well.
I need to get a thicker grinder disk for it though.

 

[adventurebob]

Mini Mac 30, saw came free, about $40 into the refurb. If I can get it functional for $40 I think its not too bad. Wont be a cutting saw, more of an old saw on the shelf that runs.

 

[Freudianfloyd]

Currently an Echo CS330EVL and a Stihl FS110 4 mix. And a Husky weedeater next in line.

 

[ML12]

I've got a poulan 53A torn down waiting on seals on one bench. Once I get the seals i'll do a full reassembly.



And the other bench is about to have the Mac 440 on it. Saw fires on prime, but will get a replacement carb to get rid of the flat back that was in it. Someone has messed with the ignition at some point as there is a small marette under there but it has fire so we will see.



The 1010A and C51 just came off the bench and are good to go. The wright needs a blade and fuel tank (this one is full of pinholes). And the big homelite just needs a chain made up for it.

 

[MacAttack]

Mini Mac 30, saw came free, about $40 into the refurb. If I can get it functional for $40 I think its not too bad. Wont be a cutting saw, more of an old saw on the shelf that runs.

I have two running Mini-Macs, a 30 and a 25 (both are 30cc, go figure?) i use them both frequently and they always run strong. They are durable little saws, they just like to leak bar oil, haha

 

[lostone]

A little playing with the Dremel. Doesn't show very well in the picture. Decent leading edge on it but have to order some small drum Sanders, grinding wheels and diamond burs.

 

[BGE541]

Saved this Farm Boss from the trash, cleaned, muffler modded and going out the door.