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Thanks that’s some good tips.

Don't know it you want to take advice from me, just looked at my own pic real close and realized I left the jets in, taking them out now and starting over on the cleaning LOL.

One other thing I like to do is take a small piece of wood (I split a pop sickle stick) and barely open the butterfly where the spring wants to keep it closed and place it on the opposite side of the orifices so it holds it open, I have found that on carbs with strong springs it wants to let the brass butterfly cut into the aluminum body sometimes.
 
I was lucky to find a husky 162se parts saw and a 162se complete running saw that needs the carb cleaned. I ported the cylinder from the parts saw already. New crankbearings, seals, piston / rings, gaskets, carb kit she’s ready to fly.
I'm considering getting something like Mathew is running on his vids for port work and using the Huztl 372 build with cheap top ends to learn on.
 
My custom tailored chain sharpener is coming along...
Still a few things to do, I have ordered some adjustment knobs that has yet to arrive, and I need to do some modification to the main frame before I can mount this on to it.
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Box o saw is sold and shipped, saw on table is assembled and running strong, Reddy heater is repaired. My work is done!
 

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Well I just finished up my 034 Super project. It's running amazing! It was cutting like a saw above its weight class.

Finishing that up made room on my bench for a Hobart industrial meat slicer that belongs to my Brother-in-law. He bought 4 broken ones off of some auction site a while back, and I was able to turn 4 broken ones into 3 running ones. Now I have another to fix, he said it keep tripping the breaker when you turn it on.

I'm not picky about what I work on.
 
Current refurb project... the 1961 PM 270. Bought new by my grandfather in 1961. Saw runs and will be a usable saw, if I own something i think it should work unless mortally wounded.

2 new chains on the way, repainting body work in (close to) original ugly colors. Carb adjustments, new plug, recoil repaired. Homemade parts include but not limited to air filter and muffler. "Muffler" is with my Dad getting some finishing touches.

Will be a strong old 95cc saw.
 

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I finally got my !@#$%^ 361 figured out! After fixing the carb, the saw refused to start or even pop, so I checked for spark and found out that it wasn’t producing spark. To make a long story short, the coil wire had come unscrewed a tiny bit so I tightened it down and the saw fired up on the second pull, no choke. After 8+ months, it finally works!
 
I finally got my !@#$%^ 361 figured out! After fixing the carb, the saw refused to start or even pop, so I checked for spark and found out that it wasn’t producing spark. To make a long story short, the coil wire had come unscrewed a tiny bit so I tightened it down and the saw fired up on the second pull, no choke. After 8+ months, it finally works!
Time for celebration :dancing:
 
With base gasket, tightest spot at exhaust port .0395, the rest measured at 3/6/9 o'clock .043/.044 give or take .001 on each reading. Will measure it without a base gasket but I have a feeling it's going to be tight at the exhaust port.

Edit:
Without gasket .0215 at exhaust port. 3/6/9 coming in at .0235/.0245 all measurements taken 5 times and staying within .0005.

Still working on my degree wheel mount.

Also with gasket I only had two bolts in, without gasket I had in all four bolts.
 
I was lucky to find a husky 162se parts saw and a 162se complete running saw that needs the carb cleaned. I ported the cylinder from the parts saw already. New crankbearings, seals, piston / rings, gaskets, carb kit she’s ready to fly.
I have 2 of them, one is a single thick ring and the other (older) is dual thin ring.
 
My custom tailored chain sharpener is coming along...
Still a few things to do, I have ordered some adjustment knobs that has yet to arrive, and I need to do some modification to the main frame before I can mount this on to it.
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wow,! what are you going to power it with,? a USG motor?
 
wow,! what are you going to power it with,? a USG motor?

The chain sharpener is not really suitable for servo drive in any axes... and I don't think it would be practical with automation on this device.

But now that you mention it (as a joke I presume) I can see the resemblance of the mechanics.
The chain cut angle (0-35*) is self centering each 5*, it kinda "clicks" in place due to a small spring pressured steel ball going partly in to small holes on the underside of the base.
The chain tilt is usually only used at 0* or at +/- 10*, so it's only just used centered or at the end stop in each direction.
The chain link "no-return stop" to determine how much to grind the tooth is best adjusted with a steady hand that have nerve connections to someone's brain.

Here is what you want ;)
https://www.dinasaw.com.au/chain-sharpeners/
 
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