What's the best choice for a sharpener?

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Flubberboy

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Greetings:
Is there one particular brand and/or model of a shop quality grinder that is far better than others? - Silvey or similar quality?

I need something that is simple to operate and can handle different sizes of chains without having to spend too much time recalibrating it for various sizes of chains. Most I have are 3/8" or .404.

Do pro shops have multiple grinders set up so they don't have to change wheels and recalibrate every 5 minutes?

I'm spending enough now by having my local dealer sharpen chains that I probably could have bought the best machine on the market by now. I usually take in 40 to 60 chains every two weeks or so.

Thanks!
Dennis
Wichita Sawmill
Wichita KS
 
grinders

The maxx grinder is great for the money.You might also want an el cheapo that is just set up to do the depth gages.
 
I have had the Maxx grinder for about 2 years and it is a great machine! It does a great job on everything i have used it on.

The spec on that motor looks rather anemic. Does the Maxx stall easily? I like the head swing in both directions. Are all the main parts Metal? The pics online make lots of it look plastic but modern casting can give a similar finish on metal parts
 
Maxx or Oregon 511A (Tecomec 136, = Bailey's SpeedSharp (I think)) are both good, cost-effective grinders. The Oregon can be had with hydraulic clamping, too; the Maxx comes with hydraulic clamping as a standard feature. I own the Oregon but have used the Maxx, and can endorse either as a good, solid piece of machinery.
 
Maxx or Oregon 511A (Tecomec 136, = Bailey's SpeedSharp (I think)) are both good, cost-effective grinders. The Oregon can be had with hydraulic clamping, too; the Maxx comes with hydraulic clamping as a standard feature. I own the Oregon but have used the Maxx, and can endorse either as a good, solid piece of machinery.


MAXX has what kind of clamping????


.
 
Spring...I think Brandon got ahead of himself!!!



I was just going to say, His must be different then mine......

MAXX is Automatic chain clamping by way of a mechanical linkage which is activated when the head is lowered which rigidly clamps the chain for chatter free grinding..
 
Last edited:
I was just going to say, His must be different then mine......

MAXX is Automatic chain clamping by way of a mechanical linkage which is activated when the head is lowered which rigidly clamps the chain for chatter free grinding..

Dude ...... Did you just read that out of the manual ?
 
The spec on that motor looks rather anemic. Does the Maxx stall easily? I like the head swing in both directions. Are all the main parts Metal? The pics online make lots of it look plastic but modern casting can give a similar finish on metal parts

My Maxx shows no sign of stress or stalling when grinding and it is all metal. A very tight and solid machine that is smooth on the adjustment's and very accurate so far. Jim
 
I use the Maxx with good results. Only issue I have is that the set-up isn't perfectly symetrical from side to side, so I have to adjust the chain stop pawl slightly when changing sides to get the same grind. Should be easy to fix with a space, but I haven't taken the time. Maybe I can take a look in the morning.

Someone mentioned that the Maxx looks anemic. I haven't had any problem with stalling at all. You'd have to be taking off a lot of tooth and would almost certainly incurr bluing beforehand.

I have found that the Carton chains grind a little better. The Oregons commonly have a sloped back and the pawl makes them raise up on the front. I have to carefully push each link down while lowering the head, which also clamps the rail. Carlton/WoodsmanPro appear to have flat backs and avoid this problem of raising up. Just goes a little faster.
 
I use the Maxx with good results. Only issue I have is that the set-up isn't perfectly symetrical from side to side, so I have to adjust the chain stop pawl slightly when changing sides to get the same grind. Should be easy to fix with a space, but I haven't taken the time. Maybe I can take a look in the morning.

My Tecomec does the same thing, but it's not really a big deal. I'm sure I could fix it if I ever really had the time and inclination to mess with it. The only time it's an issue is if I'm grinding a chain that's in really rough shape and I have to take a lot off. Then I keep a pair of old dial calipers handy so I can make sure I keep the teeth on each side within .010 or so of each other. I think the problem is in the "cradle" part where the chain vise seats. I'm thinking it needs tilted a little one way or the other just a hair.
 

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