Whats the best hand spliting maul?

[trailmaker]

I have a 6 pound black knight with fiberglass handle.I have a 6 pound old hickory that is by far more ergonomic.They are ok i'm in searching for the cadilac of hand mauls.

When I think Cadillac I think big plush fancy and expensive. The Gransfors heavy splitting maul fits that bill. Fiskars are great, I have a bunch of them but they are more like Toyotas to me; less comfortable ride but tough and relatively cheap.

 

[Rudedog]

I would get either Fiskars Supersplitters. X25/X27
or "Cadillac" would be maybe a Gransfors. But at $170+ the Fiskars are really the best way too go.
I have the Old version (x25) and will be buying the longer x27 this fall:msp_smile:

I have both. The Gransfors 5.5 lbs. maul is my favorite unless I'm splitting small stuff. One of the sponsors, Wes Spur, has it for $155 and it shipped free.

 

[D&B Mack]

X27 for me. I also have the Monster (Mega) Maul, Stihl Maul, TrueTemper 8lb, Fiskars X25 and an old traditional that I have no idea brand name. If I had only one, it would be the X27.

 

[zogger]

Depends on the wood

Are any of you guys splitting 20 to 40 inch rounds with these. They just don't look like they have bulk for it...

But ya, I have and do. Not right down the middle, but going round and round from the outside. I don't think any 40s yet but a lot of 30 somethings, oak and hickory and just about anything in the 20 range.

Except sweetgum, I just do not split sweetgum, cut to size and noodled, that's it. The sweetgum I have here just sucks to split, even with a hydraulic. I mean it will bust, but a zillion strings holds it together.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

:agree2: ..except on the sweetgum...none of that here...but most of my bigger hedge gets noodled

I do big and knotty stuff one of three ways: (yes, with my fiskars)

-work my way across the face (in a straight line) with the maul...following cracks if able, and avoiding knots
-use the saw to cut a starter-line across the face to the depth of the bar...usually pops open on the first swing then
-just noodle it to size

I'll only hit any piece of wood 3 times without hearing/seeing/feeling any progress...then it goes to the noodling stump

cheers!

 

[Guido Salvage]

I seems that everyone missed the title of this thread.....

Whats the best hand spliting maul?

Webster's Dictionary defines a maul as follows:

": a heavy often wooden-headed hammer used especially for driving wedges; also : a tool like a sledgehammer with one wedge-shaped end that is used to split wood"

Webster's definition of an ax:

": a cutting tool that consists of a heavy edged head fixed to a handle with the edge parallel to the handle and that is used especially for felling trees and chopping and splitting wood"

To me, an ax (or axe) has a thin wedge design while a maul has a much wider vector and heavier head that serves to prevent the tool from becoming lodged in the wood.

Please note that Fiskars calls the X-27 a "Splitting Axe". Since he asked for suggestions for a maul, I am going to vote for the Sotz Monster Maul I have been using for around 30 years. I realize they are no longer made, but they can't be beat for putting wood in the shed.

 

[Coldfront]

Just broke down and ordered a Fiskars ssx27 from amazon with free shipping $48.20 I have 3 other mauls so with splitting season fast approaching I will give my review soon. So far my favorite is a 6# no name? that I put a fiberglass handle on, sharpened and has very smooth sides it really splits good so will see how the Fiskars stacks up.

 

[brewmonster]

The Fiskars X27 is way over-rated. It's OK for the easy stuff only. Maybe if you want to introduce a youngster to the joys of splitting, its light weight would make it ideal.
The Monster Maul will ruin your back.
At any hardware or big box store you can get an 8# maul with fiberglass handle. One of those and a couple of steel wedges will take care of almost anything.

 

[ratso]

Gransfors boy @ $155 it should be doing the swinging. I would like to see what justify such a mountain price.

 

[bowtechmadman]

I'm saying the cadillac is drop the maul and grab a hydraulic handle (that's attached to a wood splitter). I've been splitting 30"+ green cottonwood for the past couple weeks (storm damage). I can't imagine trying to bust this stuff up w/ my fiskars.
I've got all the respect in the world for those people swinging mauls especially in the big stuff. I use my fiskars in nice straight grain ash but everything else goes through the hydraulic splitter.

 

[D&B Mack]

Please note that Fiskars calls the X-27 a "Splitting Axe". Since he asked for suggestions for a maul, I am going to vote for the Sotz Monster Maul I have been using for around 30 years. I realize they are no longer made, but they can't be beat for putting wood in the shed.

I used to have this one as well. Same as Mega Mule Maul as shown on Bailey's, which I have now.

Bailey's - Steel Handle 14.5 lbs. "Mega" Mule Maul

 

[fields_mj]

Like many others, I am a reluctant convert. I prefer my X27. I'm 6'2" and I too would have bought one earlier if they had a longer handle. I like my X27 better than any 6lb maul that I've ever swung. For busting one single piece of wood, a 6lb maul MIGHT have a SLIGHT advantage, but not much. After an hour or two of swinging, the X27 is getting a lot more work done than the 6lb maul. Anything that the Fiskars won't split gets noodled with the 064 or thrown in the truck and droped on the splitter at home. I have an 8lb maul that I need to put a new handle in. I do still like to take it along for the ride because sometimes you have a piece that you just need to hit once really hard with something. If I ever replace the old #8 maul, it will be with a monster maul. I've swung an 8lb maul all day before, and I could get 2 cord a day out of it, but even as a young man it wore my dumb rear end out!

Oh, and yes the X27 WILL split large rounds in half, but it does take a while. I don't like working "around" a large piece, as I don't like splitting my wood down into kindling. I split the round in half with a heavy maul, wedge, or just noodle it (which is what I normally do), and then use the X27 to split the two halves into 6"~9" splits. I cut my firewood about 23" long. I'll tip the big rounds over with one end laying on a split, or another smaller piece of firewood, and then tend noodle them 75% of the way or so. I get several tipped over at once. This keeps my saw up off the ground a little more, and keeps the noodles from clogging up quite so bad. Cutting at an angle, instead of parallel, also keeps the noodles shorter which helps also. After doing several rounds this way, I set the back up an pop them apart with what ever is handy (normally the X27). From there, the X27 does a great job on them.

 

[Streblerm]

Count me in on the Fiskars as best maul. I have used monster mauls, wedge and sledge, 6 and 8# mauls. Where I differ is that I like the shorter handled X25 better. I have both and I am 6'5" with above average upper body strength.. If you want to use a traditional roundhouse maul swing then the X27 works better. If you modify your swing style to a straight down with a flick of the wrist just before striking the round, then the shorter handle will give you more power. With the longer handle I don't have the strength or control to swing it the same as the shorter one.

I have repeatedly busted up rounds with the shorter handle and controlled downswing that I was unable to bust with the X27 and a roundhouse. I haven't encountered anything that would split with another maul if the fiskars won't do it. If you are looking to bust a 24" round in half with one swing you aren't going to do it with the fiskars or a maul. If you work around the outside and make "corners" to knock off then you can split all but the big "Ys" and crotches.

 

[Coldfront]

The Fiskars X27 is way over-rated. It's OK for the easy stuff only. Maybe if you want to introduce a youngster to the joys of splitting, its light weight would make it ideal.
The Monster Maul will ruin your back.
At any hardware or big box store you can get an 8# maul with fiberglass handle. One of those and a couple of steel wedges will take care of almost anything.

I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.

 

[brewmonster]

I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.

You're right, Coldfront, a 6# maul is almost as effective as an 8 pounder and easier. I just like to get the maximum effect from every blow. BTW, you handle more wood than I do, but I'm five years older!

 

[WidowMaker]

I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.

====

What he said, only I'm just days away from 67...

 

[Oldtimer]

I was wrong; My firewood man uses a 6 pound True Value maul, not an 8 pound.
Like I said, the slight ridge up the center of each face makes a huge difference. A 6 pound maul without that ridge is much harder to split with. I tried.
Anyways, under $30 has split a couple hundered cord since november. I have some great pictures, but for some reason yahoo won't let me download them to my PC.

 

[zogger]

I'll keep a lookout

I was wrong; My firewood man uses a 6 pound True Value maul, not an 8 pound.
Like I said, the slight ridge up the center of each face makes a huge difference. A 6 pound maul without that ridge is much harder to split with. I tried.
Anyways, under $30 has split a couple hundered cord since november. I have some great pictures, but for some reason yahoo won't let me download them to my PC.

I'll watch the sales and pawn shops, see if I can find one used. I'll try it, I like edged tools. A good variety is nice. I have less than zero budget for anything brand new now until way next year. Wayyy too many bills that have to be paid, with not enough income. As it is I'll have to sell something just for vehicle tags coming up.

It never ends...

My fiskars is *wonderful*, did some big hickory tonight with it, but I am not tied to any one tool either.

At 4.5 lbs head and a really lightweight handle, it feels like swinging a whiffle bat. I could stand one more lb of steel in that head, but no more than that. I did an almost exact hickory round yesterday with a traditional maul, man that took a long time comparatively and was like ten times the work. I just wanted a back to back comparison again, to see if I was being pollyanna about the fiskars..nope, superior in most wood. Not all wood, but most of what I have to do. Stringy gnarly 30 inch plus hickory, all I could do to tip it up and over and get a grip and slide it onto the block, that heavy.

Sometimes I roll them up a plank, but I picked out a shorter splitting block and now I can tip them up on it.

Had an idea....a chopping area platform instead of a block. A big flat hardwood surface built like a tight deck, with a lot of like two inch holes drilled in it. The holes are all over, so you can stick several rounds up there, then slam in some pegs around them, wherever they have to go, to hold everything in place so nothing slides around or goes flying. A more robust version of the bungee cord idea.

Well, I don't know two inch exactly, whatever the size like busted shovel and rake handles are, cut them up for the pegs....

 

[Evanrude]

I have a SS (x25), X27 and a 6 pound maul with fiberglass handle. For 90% of the wood I cut, its X27. Big gnarlier rounds get the maul or noodled. Once the round is in half, usually the X27 tears it up with no problem. I still like the SS, but use the X27, as I prefer the longer handle. There is a difference between the two, the SS seems more 'nimble' and you can snap it with your wrists easier than the X27. The X27 just has that much more leverage to where you don't necessarily have to 'snap' it. I can half 30"+ rounds with a fiskars if they're not a crotch. I don't like nor am I good at chipping my way around the larger rounds - however, my dad has it down pat and prefers the SS. Having said that, my dad and I have different methods, yet, we still grab the Fiskars axes over the maul. The maul still has its place and is usually thrown in the back of the truck with the Fiskars axes.

 

[turnkey4099]

I hate a 8# maul, sure it splits big wood but I can split almost twice as much with a lighter 6# instead of time wasted resting muscles swinging with a 8# or bigger. The lighter weight means almost non stop splitting. I still use a hydraulic splitter for the big tough stuff, but I can split twice as fast with a maul on regular hard wood. At 54 I'm not trying to get in shape for the lumber jack competition. I split and stack 10 cords a year.

I have used a 6# for over 30 years. Have had a hydraulic splitter since 86 but only use it for the tough stuff. Maul, wedge, sledge is my Physical Therapy Program to keep in some sorta shape. Currently 76 and still swinging but for sure slowing down a bunch. Looking forward to trying ou the x27, should be here Sat or Mon. Got around 8 cord B. Locust in the round to work through.

Harry K