Whats the best hand spliting maul?

[turnkey4099]

Mine came today. Unboxed it, admired it, showed it to the wife, thought about going out and giving it a try. Glance at clock said "No way, it is already 2 pm and you just opened the first brew!".

I'll give it a shot tomorrow

Harry K

Wow! Tried it out in bone dry B. Locust - splits that had to halved to fit in the stove. I alternated Fiskars/6lb maul. No contest, Fiskars felt like a toothpick and was splitting it without even swinging hard, maul was heavy and need to be swung.

Granted bone dry Locust with out knots almost falls apart on its own but the ease of splitting was noticeable.

One possible 'not like'. If the Fiskars didn't split it, it would bounce out vice staying to be given a smack on the back to finish the cut. After most of a lifetime as kid and adult using a maul I still can't hit the same spot twice - close but not exact. Doesn't help when a chunk doesn't split the first shot.

I'll be starting to split "in the round" B. Locust cut a week or two ago tomorrow or the next day, see how it goes then.

Bottom line: I am sold!!

Harry K

 

[banshee67]

another vote for fiskars SS

 

[SPDRMNKY]

had a thought on crumbling fiskars edges today...obviously the head is made of a harder (more brittle) metal than traditional mauls or axes...

but I think the shape of the head is also a big contributor to losing an edge sooner. most traditional mauls are (basically) convex as you go from edge to handle...or at least straight...the fiskars is concave as you go from edge to handle. relatively speaking (even if head weight was the same) a concave shaped head will have less metal than a convex shaped head, as you go any given distance from the edge toward the handle. this means less "structure" near the edge, and so stresses from impact are distributed through less metal, and damage happens sooner.

I think that makes sense. I split on the ground, and so usually have a fair amount of damage on the edge. I just clamp the head in a vice, dress the edges with a small file, and then finish the edge with the sharpener...a lot faster than trying to use the sharpener right-side-up. someday I'll invest in a better sharpener.

cheers!

 

[zogger]

you got it

Wow! Tried it out in bone dry B. Locust - splits that had to halved to fit in the stove. I alternated Fiskars/6lb maul. No contest, Fiskars felt like a toothpick and was splitting it without even swinging hard, maul was heavy and need to be swung.

Granted bone dry Locust with out knots almost falls apart on its own but the ease of splitting was noticeable.

One possible 'not like'. If the Fiskars didn't split it, it would bounce out vice staying to be given a smack on the back to finish the cut. After most of a lifetime as kid and adult using a maul I still can't hit the same spot twice - close but not exact. Doesn't help when a chunk doesn't split the first shot.

I'll be starting to split "in the round" B. Locust cut a week or two ago tomorrow or the next day, see how it goes then.

Bottom line: I am sold!!

Harry K

It is speed, accuracy and focus that makes it work. It AIN'T a maul. The technique matters a LOT. Use it like your generic big heavy medium dull maul, it just won't work. Use it like what it was designed for, it works. It helps immensely to be able to follow the natural splits exactly. You can still split any which way, but that works the best. So ya, work on your aim and notice if the blade is going in straight or not, every degree off dead on straight down will lessen impact force...of course you can get fancy and match the grain angle if it is a twisty jobber.......

Also, don't wait until it is completely dull, touch it up frequently.

You WILL notice the teflon wearing off after some cords, I give that aspect of the design a C, it doesn't last as long as I wished it did. I don't have a dedicated spray can of ...something... yet, but I am going to get one. I figure every time I touch it up, give it a spray afterwards.

Need a review on spray on lube...which works the best for the cheapest bucks. Of course there is always bar oil..maybe tomorrow I will try that. Proly way too thick though... I don't think wd40 would do much. Has to be something with teflon or silicone maybe in it. Maybe some of that graphite lube someone dropped a link to earlier.

 

[max2cam]

While the Fiskars SS might be the "best" if you only own one maul, you really need more than one.

Even with the Fiskars I still bring out the old Monster Maul on occassion for wood that needs "special" treatment. An old fashioned 6 lb maul also comes in handy at times. The same is true for wedges and sledge hammer. They all have their uses...

 

[turnkey4099]

While the Fiskars SS might be the "best" if you only own one maul, you really need more than one.

Even with the Fiskars I still bring out the old Monster Maul on occassion for wood that needs "special" treatment. An old fashioned 6 lb maul also comes in handy at times. The same is true for wedges and sledge hammer. They all have their uses...

+1

Even with a hydraulic splitter you still need some of that...especially if you haul your wood frm the site to the splitter.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

It is speed, accuracy and focus that makes it work. It AIN'T a maul. The technique matters a LOT. Use it like your generic big heavy medium dull maul, it just won't work. Use it like what it was designed for, it works. It helps immensely to be able to follow the natural splits exactly. You can still split any which way, but that works the best. So ya, work on your aim and notice if the blade is going in straight or not, every degree off dead on straight down will lessen impact force...of course you can get fancy and match the grain angle if it is a twisty jobber.......

Also, don't wait until it is completely dull, touch it up frequently.

You WILL notice the teflon wearing off after some cords, I give that aspect of the design a C, it doesn't last as long as I wished it did. I don't have a dedicated spray can of ...something... yet, but I am going to get one. I figure every time I touch it up, give it a spray afterwards.

Need a review on spray on lube...which works the best for the cheapest bucks. Of course there is always bar oil..maybe tomorrow I will try that. Proly way too thick though... I don't think wd40 would do much. Has to be something with teflon or silicone maybe in it. Maybe some of that graphite lube someone dropped a link to earlier.

There are several spray lubes. I have a can of "TriFlow with Teflon" probably 30 years old, still good and a "CRC" which is more of a penetrant but also does some lubrication. You are right WD40 is not the stuff you want.

Harry K

 

[Captain Crunch]

One possible 'not like'. If the Fiskars didn't split it, it would bounce out vice staying to be given a smack on the back to finish the cut. After most of a lifetime as kid and adult using a maul I still can't hit the same spot twice - close but not exact!!

Harry K

I have not had my Fiskars bounce out of anything yet. When it sticks I give the handle a smack with my hand to free it.
I have seem too many light splitting axes with busted heads to whack anything but a wedge with the sledge.

 

[cheeves]

Splitting mauls

There are several spray lubes. I have a can of "TriFlow with Teflon" probably 30 years old, still good and a "CRC" which is more of a penetrant but also does some lubrication. You are right WD40 is not the stuff you want.

Harry K

turnkey4099 you're right on the money! I've been splitting wood since the fifties when my grandfather made me a little maul for splitting kindling. He spent a long time out by the barn teaching me the the proper technique. He also worked with me so I could hit the same spot over and over. Back then no one had any splitters. It was all manual labor. And cross cut saws were used too mostly. So splitting was taken very seriously as was "getting in the wood." Proper cleaning and sharpening the equipment was a religion. If you didn't do it you'd get a beatin'.

With mauls it's all in the design of the heads. What strikes the wood. That's why the Snow&Neally's work so good. Same with the Fiskars. But as someone stated they aren't really considered a maul. I used the X25 but found it to be too light. I'm 6'3" with a really long back. Great for splitting wood. I love to actually!! When you get in that rhythm, it's great. Wood starts piling up you're sweating fantastic. My old Stanley 7 pounder is one of my most prized possessions. Found it in the dump. Don't know how old it is, but works like a charm. I'd make a fortune if I could copy this baby and sell them. That's something to think about.

Anyway thanks. Bob (Cheeves)

 

[Iron Head]

had a thought on crumbling fiskars edges today...obviously the head is made of a harder (more brittle) metal than traditional mauls or axes...

but I think the shape of the head is also a big contributor to losing an edge sooner. most traditional mauls are (basically) convex as you go from edge to handle...or at least straight...the fiskars is concave as you go from edge to handle. relatively speaking (even if head weight was the same) a concave shaped head will have less metal than a convex shaped head, as you go any given distance from the edge toward the handle. this means less "structure" near the edge, and so stresses from impact are distributed through less metal, and damage happens sooner.

I think that makes sense. I split on the ground, and so usually have a fair amount of damage on the edge. I just clamp the head in a vice, dress the edges with a small file, and then finish the edge with the sharpener...a lot faster than trying to use the sharpener right-side-up. someday I'll invest in a better sharpener.

cheers!

You are right about the shape of the fiskars blade.
The fiskars has a very sharp blade and is thinly tappered to a wedge toward the top.
All the energy from a swing gets transfered to the sharp blade so that the blade gets burried to the wedge and splits the wood.
That is an awesome design. Now they need to upgrade to a harder metal so that the sharp blade holds better.
Once they do this upgrade, then the Fiskar may be the ultimate splitting axe. But the price will most likely be up there with the other premium mauls.

 

[Cerran]

I've been splitting with the x27 for a few weeks now and I love it. I've pretty much abandoned my old mauls with the exception of really stubborn pieces of wood that require a wedge.

Another vote for the Fiskars x27 here.

 

[zogger]

tool steel

You are right about the shape of the fiskars blade.
The fiskars has a very sharp blade and is thinly tappered to a wedge toward the top.
All the energy from a swing gets transfered to the sharp blade so that the blade gets burried to the wedge and splits the wood.
That is an awesome design. Now they need to upgrade to a harder metal so that the sharp blade holds better.
Once they do this upgrade, then the Fiskar may be the ultimate splitting axe. But the price will most likely be up there with the other premium mauls.

I had a driveshaft on a piece of tractor equipment here I had to shorten a coupla inches. Split two piece sliding shaft, common on this stuff. One side I cut off easy, the other side..I mean dang. I am not all that up on various steels I am way more an old wood worker than metal worker. That stuff was impervious to anything I had. Not a dang thing would even scratch it, A new sharp file, nothing, grinder wheel, nothing, hack saws powered or hand, nothing. Not a scratch, let alone cut it. So, I give it to my boss, he has a shop in town. He couldn't cut it either, had to tote it to some friend of his with a dedicated machine shop and they had to use some sort of exotic diamond (whatever I don't know) cutoff wheel thing. That's the hardest stuff I have ever seen. Would like an axe made from it, if it came with the appropriate sharpener....Oh heck, I would like a pick, shovel, hoe, adze, buncha stuff made from that sort of steel.

 

[JimmyT]

Zogger, your driveshaft may have been made out of molybneum steel.

 

[Qsky]

+1 for the Fiskars SS!! Been splitting oak for 3 years with the Fiskars SS. Maybe 100 face cords, out of those I had maybe a dozen pieces that I couldn't split. Gave those to a buddy for his campfire.

 

[Coldfront]

Just got my Fiskars SS x27 today sitting by the back door when I got home, I'm going out right now to test it on some oak, and compare to my old stand by 6# maul.

 

[ratso]

I got use my X27 for the first time. I have noticed an increase in speed over my 6 pound maul.I had to put a round out so I would not put the X27 in the dirt.

 

[turnkey4099]

I got use my X27 for the first time. I have noticed an increase in speed over my 6 pound maul.I had to put a round out so I would not put the X27 in the dirt.

Used mine on my greenest B. Locust today. Walked right through it and less effort than I used to use with my 6lb maul. That thang is impressive!

Harry K

 

[Rio_Grande]

Is the Fiscars really that good? I split all hardwood and abandoned had splitting because the mauls I have just bounce out of the wood. Splitting with wedges just aint much fun. I would love to go back to some hand splitting if i could do it with some regular success. School me I need the excercise!!

 

[Captain Crunch]

Is the Fiscars really that good? I split all hardwood and abandoned had splitting because the mauls I have just bounce out of the wood. Splitting with wedges just aint much fun. I would love to go back to some hand splitting if i could do it with some regular success. School me I need the excercise!!

If a piece IS split-able, the Fiskars will do it easier, to me, than conventional 6 or 8 lb. It has never bounced out. So yes, it is that good, to me.

 

[Iron Head]

Is the Fiscars really that good? I split all hardwood and abandoned had splitting because the mauls I have just bounce out of the wood. Splitting with wedges just aint much fun. I would love to go back to some hand splitting if i could do it with some regular success. School me I need the excercise!!

Give your gild maul a sharp edge and see if she can get a bite into the wood.